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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've started having a CEL happen and the code being thrown is P0175. I can reset the ECU and the car runs fine for a few miles. It seems to start degrading as soon as the temp has increased to almost normal. If I pull over and reset the ECU I can get a few more miles before it starts to run poorly again.

While it's running poorly low RPM power is virtually non-existent. I have to feather the clutch and rev the motor to start.

While going to car feel like it's having issues maintaining speed. I can floor it and after .5-1 second the motor will take off like I would expect it to normally.

What should I check?


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Things I've Done Recently (All after the first occurance):
New header/cat delete test pipe (will be ordering a cat and having welded in soon)
New copper core plugs. It had iridium and they looked HORRIBLE so I replaced them.


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Things I've Inspected:
Air Filter look almost new
MAF: I haven't seen a good/bad one for reference, but when I looked at mine it looked clean. If it's possible that this could be part of the issue is there anywhere on here that I can find images of good vs bad?

Thanks for any help this is driving me nuts!
 

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After dusting off my Chrystal Ball ( It's been a while .. it's been on the shielf ).. I think you have a leaking Injector on Cylinder One or Four..

Pull the O2 Sensor Plug on the Passenger Side.. then Reset the ECU ( battery Disconectt for 10 Min ).. leave the O2 Unplugged on the pass side..

This will force Bank One ( the One that is Complaining about Rich ) to open loop.. One Cylinder will run rich ( the Leaker ) one will run Close to proper Mixture.. the other two will run properly

Performance should come back.. BUT.. need to fix it..

My advice is to get the injectors out, and have them cleaned and checkes at www.witchhunter.com $100 and one week.. love them..

Or you can do the 'Injector Swap' to move the offending menber over to bank two ( Cyl 2-3 ) and figure out which one it is.. but then what?.. still have to get an injector.. and I would not recomend putting One Clean/New injector in with a bunch of 10 year old one's...

I'll help you figure out which one it is if you need..

Cap
 

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I'd go after the Re-Mans, because the Car will not be Down for the Week..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'd go after the Re-Mans, because the Car will not be Down for the Week..

Cap
So I unplugged the Passenger side o2 Sensor as suggested and the car did run LONGER before starting to run bad, but it did eventually start to stutter as before.

CEL did come back on with codes P0125 & P0135 (Is this the expected result?)

Also something I also thought about. I'm running a 4-1 header so both banks should be getting the same reading....
 

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It's a PPE!..

K.. that changes the Picture a LOT..

Disreguard the Injectors thing if you've got a PPE.. It COULD be a wiring Problem.. OR an Injector..

The Only way to tell is Replace the Wiring with Known Good.. Or Replace the Injectors with Known Good.. Your Choice as to how you want to proceede..

Cap

EDIT:.. do you have ONE or TWO o2 Sensors on the 4-1 Set up.. If you have two.. then things get really whacky.. and need to change it to a One O2 Set up
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It's a PPE!..
EDIT:.. do you have ONE or TWO o2 Sensors on the 4-1 Set up.. If you have two.. then things get really whacky.. and need to change it to a One O2 Set up
It's actually and OBX Header w/ Cat Delete Test Pipe which so far seems to be decent quality. The issues were there before this install so I don't believe this is part of the issue.

I currently have TWO o2 Sensors and didn't do the swap to the single since the OBX had two o2 bungs pre-installed. Is there an article on switching to a single? Is it just a matter of matching colors and splicing? I'm proficient at soldering so I'm comfortable doing whatever...
 

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The Problem is the 'Cross Talk' of the bank one and Bank two Fuel Trims.. and the ONLY way this will work is if you use ONE o2 Sensor for the actual O2 Sig.. the O2 Sig is on the White/Blue Wires..

The Dificulty is in the Heaters.. the ECU Needs to see a heater load for each o2 sensor..

The Safe way to do it is to let the Left and right O2 Sensor feed Plugs still drive the Heaters of the Left and right O2 Sensors.. then take ONE o2 sensor and have it be the 'Master'.. the Blue/White wires that come from it, will go to BOTH O2 Sensor Harness that go to the Engine Bay harness..

One Sensor is a Master, and it Feeds BOTH o2 Sigs, and it's own heater load..
One Sensor is a Slave, and is only there for a heater load, and to Plug up the Hole..

You will need to use some Removeable Splice, as getting two Sensors screwed in with shared wires attached it impossable.. Unless you 'Pre Twist' the O2 Sensor before you screw it into the Hole..

There is a way you can do it with ONE o2 Sensor, Sharing the Heater load between both sides of the Engine bay Harness.. but if you screw up the Wiring ( Four Black Wires ), you will Smoke your ECU.. Not Recomended..

You still could have an Injector problem.. as the PPE ( 4-1) style of Exhaust goes Bug Shit Crazy when that happens.. Sorta like you have Now.. but the Twinn O2 Sensors will not work on a 4-1.. it's been proven a few times here..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will male/female spade connectors be sufficient as far as the removable aspect? And just to confirm I pick a o2 sensor to be the master that runs the blue/white wires and splice both harness into it. On the slave I simply leave the black wires as is?
 

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Will male/female spade connectors be sufficient as far as the removable aspect?
Yes.. it's not the greatest, as corosion will happen.. Coat with Greese or Silicone used for Spark Plug Wires, before assembly of the Spade.. not the Wires.. they need to be clean and bright.

And just to confirm I pick a o2 sensor to be the master that runs the blue/white wires and splice both harness into it. On the slave I simply leave the black wires as is?
Yes.. One O2 Sensor ( Master ) has Blue White Split to go to Both Sensor Plugs in the Engine Bay.. and it's black wires are Un Altered and Working

The Second ( Slave ) O2 Sensor has it's Blue White Wires Cut.. leave them hang, and the Two Black Wires for that Slave O2 Sensor are also Still Hooked up and Un-Altered..

We need the O2 Sensor Out Put Shared.. but the Heaters need to be Separate..

And it's a Bitch to Solder these Wires.. So Crimp Connectors using a GOOD grimp tool is Recomended.. ( Dev might Jump in Here! .. He has all the NASA Testing on the Subject ).. but the Crimp Plyers need to be the Kind that Fold the Crimp into the Cresent Moon Shape.. not the 'Somewhat Modified Mooshed Shape'.. ( Is that Technical Enough For you? )

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
And it's a Bitch to Solder these Wires.. So Crimp Connectors using a GOOD grimp tool is Recomended.. ( Dev might Jump in Here! .. He has all the NASA Testing on the Subject ).. but the Crimp Plyers need to be the Kind that Fold the Crimp into the Cresent Moon Shape.. not the 'Somewhat Modified Mooshed Shape'.. ( Is that Technical Enough For you? )
Cap
I have a good crimp tool so I can handle this (I used to do mobile electronics for a living).
 
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