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Paint Water Damage

1K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  plebian 
#1 ·
Not sure if this is the case, however after thoroughly washing the car with Meguiar's and drying it right away, it still looks like the pictures attached. It's more than the paint, it's the windows too. I'm pretty depressed about it. Here I thought the car just needed a bad washing.

Do any of you know what I can do to help with this? I'd appreciate it a lot.






 
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#6 ·
That is too much for a clay bar. New paint is too expensive. Don't waste time take it to a professional and they will advice you on the severity and what they can do for you. If they can't do it then they will let you know. Those baked in mineral spots need to be aggressively dealt with.
 
#9 ·
Went and got a Mother's claybar kit at the local auto place.. it doesn't come out with "gliding" the bar over like the directions say, but with a little wax on, wax off action, it does come off. I estimate this will take me a few hours of work since a 1sqft area (the ugliest part) took me about 20 minutes. I'm relieved that it's coming out though. Thanks so much for helping me out, guys.
 
#12 ·
An Acid Wash will take it off..

If it was my Car, I'd use a thin mixture of something like 'CLR' and do some Testing..

But if it's your Car, I'd say take it to be detailed as they deal with this all the time.. I'll screw up my Car, but I do not like telling someone else to screw up theirs..

Does not matter that it's 11 year old paint.. it still can be made to shine..

And next time do not park it next to the Neighbors Sprinklers..

Cap
 
#14 ·
NAw..

If it was under a tree, it'd have sap on it .. Like Mine! .. %^%&%$#9

Got it that way.. SLOWLY I pick the rock hard sap off.. and the new paint job on the front half of the car helped too.. ( Deer Strike )

Cap
 
#15 ·
scotch brite will do the windows alot quicker than the the clay bar. JUST THE WINDOWS THOUGH! 5 minute scotch brite job on the windows works wonders. I'd suggest hitting the side windows and the areas not covered by the wiper blades with rain-x or a similar product to keep it from happening again. I don't suggest rain-xing the area under the blades unless you want to keep applying it there, it sets up an addiction type need for that area because worn rain-x is worse for wet windshield view than no rain-x at all.
 
#16 ·
Good tip on the windows, thank you! I get so many useful tips on here. =) I do plan on rain x but I doubt this will happen again, since I keep the car covered and wash it regularly. I just made the tree comment because I keep finding leaves jammed in every single crack on the car!
 
#17 ·
Carefull on the Scotch Brite.. I ruined a front window on a PU Truck, using a Dish Sponge with a Abrasive pad on the other side..

Cleaning off Overspray.. Shuda Left it on..

Cap
 
#20 ·
The gardener was doing donuts in his lawnmower after I posted and got junk all over my car. :mad:
I'll wash it off again tomorrow and see how the windows come out. What you said makes sense, Dev. I'll see how the clay works and go from there. You guys rock!

 
#24 · (Edited)
What's a hand compound?
*edit* (I googled it) I assume a rubbing compound applied by hand as opposed to with a buffer? What would you recommend?

The going is slow with the clay bar. I got the trunk (engine lid) about done in the hour and a half I had before work. I bought a bottle of vinegar and I'll see if that speeds up the process. What should I apply the vinegar and water solution with?
Good idea on the bon ami. My mom used to use that to clean her stove, and it never scratched.
What are your guy's favorites for a wax after the car is all cleaned up? *edit* I found your advice on sealer vs wax, Dev. What would you suggest for my car color? I'm leaning towards sealant. When clean, the blue does not seem that dark to me at all. Not gonna lie, the thought of one pass shine sounds amazing after my clay bar spree.
 
#25 ·
I finally got around to doing my wife's truck, it was as bad as the OP's picture, maybe worse. After screwing around with some test areas and different tactics, I kinda stumbled upon something that just shocked me with the speed, ease and results. One part 3m rubbing compound (the liquid) to 2 parts vinegar applied by a damp applicator pad. A couple of rubs (very light, doesn't need much) and wipe off with a dry microfiber towel.

I tried vinegar and water, and just straight vinegar and the spots basically laughed at me. Not wanting to something as time inclusive and rough on the paint as a rub and polish I put a dollop of the 3m rubbing compound on the vinegar soaked applicator and it came right off, without dulling the finish in the slightest bit. Now this made my forearms start to stink, can't help but get some drips going away from the gloves when you working with a thin fluid, so I soaked a clean applicator in water and mixed the vinegar and compound until it was the same consistency as what was working before, and it seemed to work the same (also tried it with the compound and water just to get away from the smell completely but it didn't work as well).

Apparently mixed that thin, the vinegar breaks the hardness of the water spot while the abrasives attack the edges, but being so lubed by the vinegar it doesn't cut into the clear coat.

Must note, only use it while wet, if it starts to dry but the rubbing compound is still on the applicator, hit it with a quick spritz from a spray bottle with vinegar and water.
 
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