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Locally, I've found a 2001 MR2 Spyder for sale. It is dark blue, with a black convertible top. The girl wants 4,500 dollars for it. It has 102,000 miles on it. Other than some appearance changes (nothing huge), there is nothing done to it. I have never owned a Spyder before.
Is it worth it? What kinds of problems will I run into? Expensive repairs if problems arise? Please give me opinions.
 

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:welcome:

:nosearch:

Alright, here's what I would look for:

-Signs of pre-cat failure
-Top leakage

Other than that, look for any other signs of problems you may look for with any other car. The pre-cat failure issue is very documented here, so use the search function. Top leakage is not really that common and most apparent leakage is due to clog drain that can easily be cleaned out.

100K is really not that bad, if well taken care of, the 1zz on the Spyder can reach 200K without any major problems.
 

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Is it burning oil? have the pre-catalytic convertors been removed? Those are the things I would check first. Check or have some garage check the cylinder compressions. Did you test drive?
 

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Locally, I've found a 2001 MR2 Spyder for sale. It is dark blue, with a black convertible top. The girl wants 4,500 dollars for it. It has 102,000 miles on it. Other than some appearance changes (nothing huge), there is nothing done to it. I have never owned a Spyder before.
Is it worth it? What kinds of problems will I run into? Expensive repairs if problems arise? Please give me opinions.
Assuming that there are no major repairs in store, it is definitely worth more than $4500... that price is actually low enough that I would be very inquisitive about the rush to sell. These cars "can" be very reliable if maintained well. But, as others have mentioned there have been documented issues with early models and oil consumption and failure of the pre-cats (it is often debated if the chicken or egg comes first). With any 10-year-old top you need to be very attentive there. And with any 10-year-old car, you are probably looking at a whole host of maintainence items to come (belt, hoses, tires, brakes, struts, O2 SENSORS, weatherstriping, etc...). That said... ALL of these cars are coming to that point... and if you are buying REALLY right (as this appears to be), you can budget to repair/fix some of these issues out of the gate.

By the way, this is not the fastest car I have ever owned or driven, but it might just be the most fun... as long as you don't need this car to be real practical, you will love it!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks everyone! i'm looking for a local toyota mechanic that is willing to do it. i have test driven it, everything seemed fine. i will check for the other things you mentioned. hopefully someone else doesn't come along and just offer to buy it right away. appreciate it!
 

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I've never seen a dealership turn away work. Ask them for a pre-buy inspection, and list the specific things you want checked. It's always a pain to coordinate the current owner and the shop, someone has to drop it off, pick it up etc. You can tell the seller you will buy it, provided the inspection comes back clear. That leaves you open to negotiate the selling price further if the inspection shows problems.
 

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What Mateo said, I second. I would be very inquisitive about the 'rush to sell' @ $4,500. In addition to the full mechanical inspection, I would also recommend a compression test. And I'm not just jumping on the pile... I did one when I bought mine, to get a better feel for the overall engine health. I also had the mechanic stick a camera up the exhaust and we inspected the pre-cats together. Very re-assuring. Good luck!
 
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