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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a weird problem with my car. When i turn off the engine, it sometimes blink hazard lights two times. Does anybody know what would cause that?

Everything begun when i installed PPE header (new style) and PPE midpipe with high flow cat and PPE CAI. The first 200 kilometers went fine, and there were no CEL shown, but when CEL came in car became acting weird at the same time: it doesn't pull like it should, there is a big dip in 4000-5000 rpm and sometimes it just doesn't accelerate at all. Idle is not stable. No power, but fuel economy has halved.

I guess (from reading and searching older threads from this forum and MR2ROC) that those P0171/0174 codes (lean) are because of PPE CAI or broken MAF, as there is no any vacuum leaks and i have cleaned MAF twice with no avail. I will try new MAF, and if that won't help i will put back my original air box until i will get funds to buy Power FC.
The 0420-code must relate with high-flow cat, and i will try to fix that with O2 simulator.

Anyway i would appreciate if you could give some other theories or tips for troubleshooting.
Especially those blinking hazard lights are really weird.

Thank you for your help in advance.
 

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New style PPE.. what is that?..

If you have TWO un-altered O2 sensors in a PPE type 4 to 1 Exhaust, then it's WRONG.. Need to revert back to the Old Style Modded Split O2 Style of wire Set up..

I'm just talking about the Main O2 Sensors.. not the Cat Sensor ( If Installed )

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I meant that my hazard lights are blinking (those green arrows on the top of the tachometer), the CEL has constant light on. They blink two times (not everytime) when when i turn off the engine. That is odd.

Yes, i have all of the O2 sensors installed and the sensor after the cat is new Bosch universal one. Other two are original Toyota/Denso sensors, i just lenghtened the wires according PPE's instructions.
I will try to fix that P0420 (cat system efficiency below the threshold) by installing O2 simulator which is same thing as two spark-plug foulers. As Cap Weir wrote in some thread, the free flow cat gives different information to O2 sensor, and it might output the P0420-code.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
New style PPE.. what is that?..

If you have TWO un-altered O2 sensors in a PPE type 4 to 1 Exhaust, then it's WRONG.. Need to revert back to the Old Style Modded Split O2 Style of wire Set up..

I'm just talking about the Main O2 Sensors.. not the Cat Sensor ( If Installed )

Cap
Those O2 sensors are done per PPE's instructions, ie. ECU reads/uses only one O2 sensor, although both are installed on the header. I mean that i splitted those wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, i haven't ever used hazards :) The car does it by itself.

I have checked the wiring at it is all right, and done as Cap mentioned.
And i did do the splitting as PPE's instructions adviced.
 

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Need to Verify the PPE Wiring..

ONE O2 Sensor is used ONLY as a Heater load, and has only TWO wires hooked to it.. ( Usually the Black and Black ) and the Other Two ( usually Blue and White ) are cut on that Sensor..

And the Other o2 Sensor has the Blue and White ( Usually ) Split and going to BOTH o2 Sensor Plugs in the Engine Bay.. and that 2nd O2 Sensor ( The One that has Split it's wiring ) has it's Black/Black wire hooked up normally..

If this is the Way you have it, AND YOUR CONNECTIONS ARE GOOD, then the Problem is Elsewhere..

The 420 is a Lack of Cat, or Air leak thing.. not an issue yet.. will not cause any driveability problems

Cap
 

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PPE CAI. .
MISSED this in the First Post..

If the O2 Sensor Wiring is Proper.. put the Stock intake back in.. it will run better..

There is a fix for this.. but for now just put the stock intake back in..

What size is the Intake?..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here is a Post in one of my threads that might help explain what goes on with the PPE Intake..

http://spyderchat.com/forums/showth...y-Side..-Sorta&p=660197&viewfull=1#post660197

If you keep reading to the End of the Thread, you'll see a way to fix the PPE.. ( Injector Size, or Fuel Pressure )..

Cap
Thanks a lot for the answer Cap, and thanks for "forcing" me to read your excellent thread. Usually that kind of threads are too heavy for me, as i am not very electrically minded.

So what my conclusion after that thread is, that as now i have pissed the MAF off with PPE CAI, i have to give more fuel to get a real advantage of it and especially to get rid of those annoying problems.
I guess that you would suggest me to get a set of 2ZZ-GE injectors?
If that won't work, i will get back into standard air box until i will get a PFC, right?

Ps. I got those connectors for free from my electrician friend, so no money wasted :)
 

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that as now i have pissed the MAF off with PPE CAI, i have to give more fuel ...... get a set of 2ZZ-GE injectors?
The 2ZZ Injectors will actually make the System out of ballance the other way.. Mostly for the Good, around town, but still too rich..

Need something 'Bout 1/2 way between the Green and Yellows.. So to fix it, need to Open up the Intake a Little More to force the Mixture to be proper.. that is where the 'Maf Spacer' comes into play when using the Yellow Injectors on the 1ZZ..

For the PPE, i'm thinking you need to go up 5 to 6 MM in Height with the MAF.. to get the Mixture back proper with the Yellow Injectors.. Can use a FAT o-ring, or something like that, then Longer Screws to hold it all together.. Then you will have Increase Ignition Advance ( EDIT: Because of the MAF Spacer ) , and that will give you a Leaner Mixture at WOT.. (EDIT: than you would have had just using Yellows without the Spacer, and the 1ZZ set up is too rich as Stock anyway at WOT)..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks a lot.

The 2ZZ Injectors will actually make the System out of ballance the other way.. Mostly for the Good, around town, but still too rich..

Need something 'Bout 1/2 way between the Green and Yellows.. So to fix it, need to Open up the Intake a Little More to force the Mixture to be proper.. that is where the 'Maf Spacer' comes into play..

For the PPE, i'm thinking you need to go up 5 to 6 MM in Height.. to get the Mixture back proper with the Yellow Injectors.. Can use a FAT o-ring, or something like that, then Longer Screws to hold it all together.. Then you will have Increase Ignition Advance, and a Leaner Mixture at WOT.. ( It's too rich as Stock )..

Cap
Thanks a lot Cap, I will buy Yellow (310 cc, i guess) 2ZZ injectors somewhere.
I looked at the photo of your MAF Spacer, and i looked quite simple. Maybe i can get many, lets say 2 mm thick "shims", and play with the quantity of those until i get the motor running like it should. And use appropriate O-rings from hydraulic store or similar, so i won't get any vacuum leaks.

And i guess the 0420 will go away with O2 simulator.

That hazard blinking-thing is still a mystery to me, but i can live with it.

I will let you know when i have the problem solved. It might take some time, as i don't know how quickly i can find an injectors and get the shims done.
 

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Hazard lights blinking two times sounds like remnants of a security system acting up.
+1 ^^^

Also.. the FAST solution to the Lean Problem, is go back to Stock Intake.. It really will perform better.. as the Mixture off of Idle and Mid Range will be proper.. and with the PPE Exhaust, it will breath better at the Upper Ends..

Wait till you get the Injectors, then toss in the Intake and Injectors..

WARNING.. I checked the Mixtures with a Wideband AFR Gauge.. You do not have one.. so you are shooting Blind.. Keep the MAF Spacer short.. the Fuel trims can make the car Very Driveable, but in the Open Loop, ( AKA WOT ) you have no way of checking the Mixture.. so extended running at 14 AFR's will give you good performance, but that is too thin ( Lean ) for Extended Opperation... engine and Cat Damage will likely happen.. I Suggest you invest in a Wideband before you start playing with the Injectors and MAF Spacer.. Keep the Stock Air Box, and Stock Injectors for now.. then get a Wideband, and then Play with Modds..

Cap
 

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Regarding the hazard lights: When you switch off the engine, do you pull the key out of the contact right after? Just thinking it might be something simple like pushing the 'open' button on the key by accident when doing that. Would result in 2 blinks as well.
 
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