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Discussion Starter #1
I have an extremely sick motor, running like a champ yesterday on the way home, now walking like a turtle...

Ive narrowed down to (what I think) Timing Chain, Valve Tick, Fuel Injectors, Fuel Pump, and possibly ignition.

Starts up extremely well but withing 10 seconds the idle goes into a 600-400rpm cycle and is really rough.

120k motor SMT autocross monthly and Daily Driven.

Oil changed regularly at 3-5k with 5w-30 castrol syntech, looked at oil this morning with 2000 miles on the current change and has a brownish/ bronze tinge to it.

Ill be back here within an hour to answer any questions, I will post my mod list next.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ZERAHVOID's
2003 Toyota Mr-S Spyder
SMT 6 speed 120,000+

Ground Work:
BC Racing Invert Coil Overs
Front 5k, Rear7k
Nitto NT450 F205 R225
EBC Rotors, EBC Yellow
SS Brake lines
Motul RBF 660 DOT4

Bracing:
Beat Rush Front Diffuser Panel
Corky Breast Plate
Top Speed H-Brace
Top Speed Front Member Brace
Top Speed Rear Member Brace
Top Speed Strut Tower Bars
Top Speed Thick Sway Bars
Top Speed Upper/ Lower Track Arms (not installed)
Top Speed Rear Trailing Track Arm (not installed)
Two's R Us Beefy Endlinks
Energy Polyurathane Steering Bushings

Engine:
Bellon Electronic Voltage Stabilizer
*Ceramic Coated
*AEM Cold Air Intake
*PPE 4-1 Race Headers
*PPE Test Pipe
Top Speed Lotus Exhaust

Exterior:
JDM Custom Front Badge
HID 3k Fogs, 6k Lo, 3k Hi
Blacked Housings+Clear Lens
Dev Brake Light Visor
Dev Frunk Bin Cover
Dev Key Hole Covers
Techno R Lip Kit
VIS V-Line Carbon Hood
Togue Factory Hood Pins

Interior:
JDM Nav Pod w/ integrated Xenarc 700ts
Lenovo 15.6 w/ Greddy E Manage Blue Tuning Software
Analog/ Digital converter for HDMI
 

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Thinking it's something like a Dirty/Bad MAF..

The Clue is it starts fine..

Clean the MAF.. If it still gives you problems..

Disconect the Battery.. Pull the Plugs for BOTH main o2 Sensors.. Then after 10 Min, put the Bat back in.. Leave the O2's Unplugged, and see what it does.. ( This will force Open Loop Running )..

Report Back..

Cap
 

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COULD also be the APS problem..

Cap
 

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Brownish tint to the oil points to contamination with the radiator fluid. It's possible that you may have a head gasket failure. Check your radiator fluid and see if that has turned milky.
Also get a leak down test to conform the head gasket.
Did you ever experience an overheat condition?
 

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Similar thing happened to me just last weekend - fine one day, limping the next. For me it was spark plugs and coils - rated for 100k miles and mine went out at 105k. 120k on yours, your plugs and coils are on borrowed time if they are original.
 

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Similar thing happened to me just last weekend - fine one day, limping the next. For me it was spark plugs and coils - rated for 100k miles and mine went out at 105k. 120k on yours, your plugs and coils are on borrowed time if they are original.
Spark plugs yes but coils no. The coils can go much longer then that.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thinking it's something like a Dirty/Bad MAF..

The Clue is it starts fine..

Clean the MAF.. If it still gives you problems..

Disconect the Battery.. Pull the Plugs for BOTH main o2 Sensors.. Then after 10 Min, put the Bat back in.. Leave the O2's Unplugged, and see what it does.. ( This will force Open Loop Running )..

Report Back..

Cap
Start with this and check the coolant which is Pink.

Ive overheat before but only up to 3/4 above normal and when it happend I threw it into Neutral and the gauge dropped to normal within 30 seconds while traveling on Turnpike cresting a slight hill.

Had the coolant changed at Toyota by a trusted Mechanic who owns a MK1 Mr2 and did the change with no problems about 2 years ago.

I noticed while checking the Oil that on the Serpentine belt side theirs lots of Dried Oil but I changed my Rubber Valve Cover Gasket about 6 months ago no problems, checked all the bolts a couple weekends ago with nothing out of the ordinary. Serpentine Belt was changed back in November with out a hassle.

Changed Coils about 4 months ago thinking that was the problem which went away but has now returned, I have NGK Iridium Plugs for that matter aswell.

Cleaned the MAF with CRC Maf Cleaner and problem still persisted.

Drove around the neighborhood which was rough, almost as if the car was running on two cylinders with lots of Misfire/ after fire/ back fire or which ever the three sound related to the two cylinder symptoms.
 

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If no codes show I would check compression then go to ignition then fuel systems. Look at the plugs and clean the MAF are quick and easy.

About your oil color, condition, I can't see it but I don't think minor leakage of oil into coolant will cause the problem you write about. Coolant in the oil is a major problem but the engines I have seen with this had pancake batter for oil and ran good enough to drive to the shop.
 

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Problem in the PPE Conversion for the O2's..

That is why UNPLUG the O2's ( at the Harness at the Engine, both of them ) and reset the ECU fuel Map..

See how it drives without the O2 Fooling the ECU..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #13

Coolant is sitting at the bottom where the bottle begins to curve at the bottom.

Had PPE do the O2 swap harness themselves with a brand new oem sensor and a new one fro the test pipe a month later.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Had that front end collision awhile bcck and the radiator is slightly bent and I mean ever so slightly bent from the incident so I could be leaking coolant. I have a Mishimoto triple core raditor to swap it out with just havnt done it.
 

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From that picture I don't see coolant in the oil. That problem is very visible-pancake batter like.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Rough idle still wants to return idling at 500-600 with no sloppiness but some minor lag in throttle response by 1 second.

Both Main o2 sensors are unplugged with the test pipe o2 still plugged in.

Clened maf this morning with no issues.

All seems ok but nothing still seems normal.

Thanks so far for the help, I have whole week of vacation to figure this out, ws heading to the dragon on Tuesday but that seems to be put off indefinitely...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes Cap,

I disconnected the battery while I made a trip up to go get some radiator fans for my new mishimoto triple core
 

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clean and test the idle air control valve maybe its gummed up
 

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If it runs ANY better with the O2 Disconected, then it MIGHT be an O2 Sensor wire issue..

With the Intake MODS.. the Fuel Trims will have to be in the Plus range to get the Mixture back to Stoch.. so with the O2 Disconected and a Battery Reset.. it will be a Little Lean..

Better / Worse / Same with O2's Removed?..

Cap
 
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