[diagnostic_dog]

Write only took maybe just under 2 mins on PCMFlash... on Techstream it took over 15 minutes. (both using the tactrix interface)

So I have spend all night with strippers in the garage Sadly just making this test adapter which was a pretty painful chore, and oh to easy to make wiring mistakes.

So then I went for it..................

 

[diagnostic_dog]

It is a shame the only one of these ECU's I have is from an Automatic Transmission.
But I do have a Yaris 1.3 ECU which looks identical from the outside.
Turns out it is only USA spec cars that seem to use this "small case" ECU.

 

[MerryFrankster]

Tha looks exclty like my Autel scantool. LOL.

Good job this is a great milestone.

 

[MerryFrankster]

couple things:

Not sure if the ECU you have looks for an O2 sensor or AFR sensor. It seems to me all the 2003 and later Corolla/Matrix look for an AFR sensor.

You might find that the MAF calibration is off. It seems like the MAF calibration curve can vary from model to model, even within the same engine family.

So you have some work to do to get to proper fueling and ignition timing.

 

[evilthorne]

No the 03/04 still use the narrowband o2 05 up switched to air sensors

diagnostic dog, send me your address. I will mail this ECM to you. Whatever I can do to help.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

No the 03/04 still use the narrowband o2 05 up switched to air sensors
diagnostic dog, send me your address. I will mail this ECM to you. Whatever I can do to help.

Yes that would be amazing! Very good of you. I will PM you my address.

Not sure if the ECU you have looks for an O2 sensor or AFR sensor. It seems to me all the 2003 and later Corolla/Matrix look for an AFR sensor.
You might find that the MAF calibration is off. It seems like the MAF calibration curve can vary from model to model, even within the same engine family.
So you have some work to do to get to proper fuelling and ignition timing.

Same MAF part number fits both vehicles.
Same injector part number fits both vehilces.
Same water temp sensor
Same TPS
Same crank/cam etc
Same idle control valve
Save VVT stuff

There is a difference in knock sensor (Mr2 = wire / Corolla = 2 wire)
My car does not have the VPS "vapour pressure sensor" 89461-02030 - I think this might be a California emissions type thing.which appears to be on top of the fuel tank/pump Electronic fuel injection system for Toyota Corolla / Matrix ZZE130L - Genuine parts

I can resistor out the VPS OK
And the knock sensor I'm sure has been solved with other conversions.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

Have have taken it out for a drive, and everything drive perfectly as a Corolla ermmmm MR2 should. It now has a 6500rpm rev limiter But I'm sure we can modify that!

I have also picked up 2 fault codes for the Lambda sensor heaters.. Corolla ones are 11-16 ohms... which is the same as the MR2, so something funky is going on there. Maybe mine had this fault anyway

I can clear the vapour pressure sesnor code by inputting PTNK with 2.9v to 3.7v at atmosphere or 0.5v at a vacuum of 4.0 kPa

 

[diagnostic_dog]

I'm going to have a week away from this project because it has burnt me out a little bit over the last 2 weeks. Too many late nights on top of family/work commitments.

But I have proven the concept and feasibility here 100% of this OEM remappable 1ZZ-FE ecu idea.

The next stage is to get one working without any fault codes at all so we know there is no little problems.

 

[MerryFrankster]

Good job, you deserve a break. You really got a lot done in a short time.

For the knock sensor you will need to get a stock flat response donut sensor. It fits into the same position on the engine using an adapter stud. You can either harvest one of these studs from a junker or your can order one. Same for the sensor. Then you will have to wire it to the ECU. The flat response sensor has a completely different signal characteristics from the Mr2 resonant sensor. You cannot substitute one for the other. It requires two wires to the ECU, KNK+ and KNK-, plus the shielding must be grounded.

The MAF part number is the same but this does not mean the MAF calibration curve is the same. The calibration is a function of the shape and size of the airbox and intake duct. Be aware of this going forward or you may end up chasing your tail on the fueling.

You will be able to re-use your O2S from the Spyder but also be aware that the Spyder has divided fueling on two banks with a separate O2S signal for each bank while the Corolla has a single O2S situated after the merge of the four exhaust runners that monitors the blended exhaust from all four runners. Depending on your current exhaust setup you may need to weld a new O2S bung in a location downstream of your runner merge.

If you are going to be re-mapping the ECU you will be able to easily locate the evap DTC specifications in the firmware and delete them. Same for any a/t transmission codes if applicatble, and downstream O2S fault codes if you don't want one.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

I've ordered a Knock sensor with a connector/pigtail etc.

If you are going to be re-mapping the ECU you will be able to easily locate the evap DTC specifications in the firmware and delete them. Same for any a/t transmission codes if applicable, and downstream O2S fault codes if you don't want one.

Hey I think we are hitting the limits of what I can do. Cracking open the OEM firmware is beyond my little peanut brain! I can do PCBs, wiring diagrams, analysing packets etc, but assembly and coding really isn't my thing.

There is a magic side effect of this project.... a little Arduino board and software will perfectly simulate the output to the cluster for Temperature, Charge and Oil Pressure. Surely this is just what all the people who do 2ZZ conversions or aftermarket ECU conversions are wanting? I could spin a very small pcb out that would do this no problem.

In a spare 30 mins today I have experimented with fitting the corrola circuit board inside the Spyder alloy casing, including cutting off the connector ready to solder on the adapter I mocked up last night. I am sure everything will fit entirely into the spyder stock ECU casing and be almost entirely plug and play, maybe just an extra wire for the knock sensor.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

 

[MerryFrankster]

Good job I would have absolutely no idea how make that PCB.

The MPX arduino is not a bad idea at all but there are some things to keep in mind:

The 2zz ECU talks MPX already so the cluster is covered.

The standalone ECU's typically provide CAN outputs of their PIDs, so in this situation you would want a board that ingests CAN and spits out BEAN. Otherwise you are using up the precious analog outputs from the standalone, that are limited in number and normally needed for other things.

I believe that the all4swap group was doing good business with their MPX translator board that took analog inputs and CAN inputs both, and sent MPX to the cluster. The market was for engine swaps in Lexus vehicles. With the current situation though I don't know if this item is still available for import from its manufacture source.

LinkECU has a standalone with an integrated MPX ouput for the Altezza. This has been adapted to run in a MR2 Spyder, much like you adapted the Corolla ECU to run in the Spyder. This is covered in another thread here. I believe that LinkECU contracted with an Australian company for the development of a MPX piggyback that they fit into the enclosure with a Link motherboard.

There is also a Frankenstein Motorworks CAN to MPX translator specially built for the Spyder and I believe it also performs fan control and a/c.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

I've not really looked into the 2zz seriously - I did buy an ECU from Japan with the best lift and rev limit just encase!
But now looking at the Celica wiring diagrams, it really is pretty much plug and play with full cluster functionality.

The Russian lads seem to be all over this Toyota swap stuff, some very clever guys over there doing some amazing reverse engineering and programming. I guess the glut of Japanese imports over there make it a very popular platform. I was reading that 80% of the cars in Russia are right hand drive, so the majority of cars over there are driving with the steering wheel on the wrong side of the road!

 

[diagnostic_dog]

The power steering motor cut off pin on the ECU.... B19 = PSCT EFI for EHPS

The power steering pump puts out 5v if this is floating the pump runs.. e.g. 5v = pump running
But if you pull it down to ground it turns the pump off. Actually if you pull it below 3v it cuts it off.
So if you want to turn your pump off, all you need is some sort of switch with a maybe a 1k resistor in series just so you don't burn out the pumps switching output.

 

[Node]

The power steering motor cut off pin on the ECU.... B19 = PSCT EFI for EHPS

The power steering pump puts out 5v if this is floating the pump runs.. e.g. 5v = pump running
But if you pull it down to ground it turns the pump off. Actually if you pull it below 3v it cuts it off.
So if you want to turn your pump off, all you need is some sort of switch with a maybe a 1k resistor in series just so you don't burn out the pumps switching output.

Not to go off topic and maybe this is a question for another thread but, isn't the pump progressive assist? I.E. at 4V the pump would run at a lower speed? To replace pump speed control we could just map a conditioned wheel speed input to a voltage output of an Arduino or something.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

Appears from my little tinkering session that it runs at full speed until you pull that line down to below 3v, then it stops entirely.
I think that input pin is purely to stop the battery from draining with the ignition on/engine off.
The other pin is just idle up, so the pump tells the engine ecu to idle up under heavy motor loads.

But the power steering motor does have some speed control, because it doesn't just turn off abruptly, it slows down to a stop, and when you turn it on is gently speeds up.

The EPS does have a connection to the SPD pin on the cluster, so it does have a vehicle speed signal input. So maybe it modulate the pump motor speed from that signal. You'd have to get a signal generator to fake the speed pulse or whatever to examine how it works.

 

[rmeller]

I believe that the PS controller receives a speed signal from the ABS unit, and from that computes the motor drive. The signal from the ECU is just a veto for when the car is not driving.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

Look at the diagram, ABS has no connection to the Power steering module.

PS receives "SPD" from the cluster, which is spurred from the engine ECU.

 

[MerryFrankster]

You are both correct. Cluster gets speed from ABS, and sends it to ECM and EHPS. Way to slice the baby in half.

 

[diagnostic_dog]

100% correct.
Seems like the cluster is somewhat of a central gateway on the MR2, interpreting messages from one system and passing it to another.

I have poked some BEAN packets at the cluster tonight. I can get the temp gauge and the warning lights to dance on command.

And I finished and ordered 5x PCBs llike this:-

Now I caw walk away from this project till the PCB's arrive in about a weeks time.