MR2 SpyderChat banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am in the process of removing the Pre-Cats from my 2005 with 85k miles. I got the manifold out but had difficulty separating it from the downpipe at first. After I managed, I noticed a lot of rust between the two and all over the down pipe gaskets. Should I be concerned? I planned to replace the gaskets as per the guide, but should I do anything else to mating faces prior to re-assembly?
Bicycle part Motor vehicle Wood Gas Auto part Bicycle part Rim Vehicle brake Gas Automotive tire

Secondly, the manifold mounting face seems to be quite ashy and the gasket itself it looking pretty rough. Is this just due to overheating or is something else going on? Any recommendations to clean this up before installing the new gasket?
Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Automotive tire Motor vehicle Composite material Engineering Automotive exterior Vehicle Automotive tire Automotive engine gasket Motor vehicle Automotive exterior Brown Automotive tire Building Wood Metal Wood Tool Bumper Automotive exterior Bicycle part

Lastly, I figured I may as well do the plugs and get the injectors cleaned while I was here and there seemed to be a lot of build up under the engine cover, none of it got into the spark plug holes but it was all around and lucky the coil seals are still in good shape, anything seem concerning here? I tried to clean this up after taping up the exhaust ports but the build up is pretty high.
Motor vehicle Vehicle Automotive exterior Automotive air manifold Gas
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,861 Posts
I don't see anything that's too alarming .... must of came from a state that has temperature change . The rust you can hit with a wire brush or better yet a power wire wheel then a little temp paint if you care . The aluminum is oxidizing so wire brush or sandpaper on a block , the valve cover I'd paint .

I wouldn't mess with the injectors unless you're have a problem , probably cause yourself problems messing with them .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't see anything that's too alarming .... must of came from a state that has temperature change . The rust you can hit with a wire brush or better yet a power wire wheel then a little temp paint if you care . The aluminum is oxidizing so wire brush or sandpaper on a block , the valve cover I'd paint .

I wouldn't mess with the injectors unless you're have a problem , probably cause yourself problems messing with them .
Thanks,

I guess I would need to remove the valve cover to paint it, maybe I will wait to do that when I get to the belt.

I have already removed the injectors 😵, anything I should be worried about when reinstalling?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,861 Posts
The valve cover I say you wouldn't have to take off to paint with a little tape and paper . It's mostly covered with the plastic engine cover ... I'd just want to get that oxidation off and painted .

Injectors are just a pain ... it seems like you need a couple extra hands . The big thing is to get them all in and not have one leak .

Ah I see your in Canada .... that explains all the rust and oxidation .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,473 Posts
Def agree with a wire brush/wire wheel on the mating surfaces. Block off the combustion chamber (painters tape) to prevent metal bits from finding their way into your cylinders. Manifold gasket just needs a new one, no biggie as I'm guessing you live in a state with road salt (or the car has at some time in it's life). Clean the studs/bolts off with a wire brush as well prior to reinstallation.

As far as injectors, I would use a little vaseline on the seals & be careful to install the O-rings without moving/damaging them. I agree less is more unless there is a definitive reason to mess with them (MAF mod, forced induction, poor fuels trims, etc).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The car is from OH/NC originally so still varying weather states.

I got all new nuts and gaskets, but I will have to clean off the bolts.

As for the injectors I just realised they came off with the tip seals still left in the engine.
Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Gas Auto part

I am going to ha e to vacuum around here for sure before getting them back in. Will I need to pull these out to reinstall? Or could I just plug the injectors back into them as is?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
On the injectors, I replaced the seals with new. I vacuumed their bores like you did. I got the seal kits with injector filters off eBay or Amazon, can’t recall. I used silicone grease on the o rings setting them back in the rails and head. There was a YouTube vid I saw that instructed you how to change the injector filters. It was in Russian I think. My car is an 03 and I did it soon after I bought it. The o rings get hard and leak air. That’s why they stick in the bores. When I fished mine out of the bores, I looked in the bore seats and there was a lot of dirt in them. I got a dental mirror and a dental pick and rigged a soft plastic hose to my vac, and carefully scraped the dirt off and the vac simultaneously running-sucked it out. Treat all of the tapes and insulation tenderly as it’s likely brittle. On older cars I used a heat gun to carefully heat the wire insulation to get it flexible (911sc). On my Mr2 I wasn’t as lucky on the insulation. I got all the info about R&R of the fuel rail on this forum. Read all you can.
Get a scanner. I had an intermittent miss when I bought the car and the scanner code pointed to a coil.

BTW the exhaust looked very similar when I took mine off. It looks like you may have tube headers so no pre cats. If you have pre cats, read about what to do.

What you are doing is pretty wise and not that expensive. Happy driving!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah I followed a video on YouTube + the repair manual to remove the injectors.

I did a scan prior to doing anything and it was clear, hopefully I don't introduce a problem when putting the injectors back in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
On the injectors, I replaced the seals with new. I vacuumed their bores like you did. I got the seal kits with injector filters off eBay or Amazon, can’t recall. I used silicone grease on the o rings setting them back in the rails and head. There was a YouTube vid I saw that instructed you how to change the injector filters. It was in Russian I think. My car is an 03 and I did it soon after I bought it. The o rings get hard and leak air. That’s why they stick in the bores. When I fished mine out of the bores, I looked in the bore seats and there was a lot of dirt in them. I got a dental mirror and a dental pick and rigged a soft plastic hose to my vac, and carefully scraped the dirt off and the vac simultaneously running-sucked it out. Treat all of the tapes and insulation tenderly as it’s likely brittle. On older cars I used a heat gun to carefully heat the wire insulation to get it flexible (911sc). On my Mr2 I wasn’t as lucky on the insulation. I got all the info about R&R of the fuel rail on this forum. Read all you can.
Get a scanner. I had an intermittent miss when I bought the car and the scanner code pointed to a coil.

BTW the exhaust looked very similar when I took mine off. It looks like you may have tube headers so no pre cats. If you have pre cats, read about what to do.

What you are doing is pretty wise and not that expensive. Happy driving!
How were you able to remove the isolators stuck in the head? I am having trouble with limited visibility and vertical clearance.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
I used a mirror and a hooked tool. I think I got them at harbor freight. Have the vac going if you can. The mirror was either a hand mirror or my dads old dental mirror glued into a tube. I think it was the big mirror because I had to reflect light down there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thankfully my fiance has some extra dental tools around, finally got them out and the rebuilt injectors in.

I was able to get everything back together and get the engine started up, but I noticed I had white smoke coming out of the manifold and exhaust. I think I may have not torqued down the bolts and nuts down all the way to spec, will have to check. Could be some rust penetrant that got into the down pipe. Anything to be worried about here? Pre-cats were still perfectly intact when I removed them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,473 Posts
Don't worry about wd-40 burning off. Unless you have an obvious exhaust leak let it settle out & should disappear in a couple of drive cycles FWIW the fast & furious franchise used WD-40 on tires to get those luscious burnouts on camera so think of that when you think of overspray burning off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Excellent. New seals made a big difference in my car. Pinging went away.

Just be aware that oil getting into those precats damages them. I also have a theory that misfiring or rich mixtures can melt them too.

I had a cat melt on my Porsche when a CIS component went out. Ran alarmingly bad and when I pulled into the driveway the cat was red hot glowing and the paint on the rear left valence was bubbling. I was close to a tragedy.

The matrix in the Spyder precats is a known cause of engine failure. It fractures and the dust gets sucked up into the engine.

Look into some headers if you are not in California. Get a gutted manifold and shelve your intact one. One less thing to bother and worry about. Enjoy and safe drives!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
How did this turn out? I’m having my manifold replaced in a week with an OE one that was already gutted that looks like yours. I may clean it up with a wire brush.
I’m concerned about rattles. Did it all go back okay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
I don't see anything that's too alarming .... must of came from a state that has temperature change . The rust you can hit with a wire brush or better yet a power wire wheel then a little temp paint if you care . The aluminum is oxidizing so wire brush or sandpaper on a block , the valve cover I'd paint .

I wouldn't mess with the injectors unless you're have a problem , probably cause yourself problems messing with them .
any particular type of wire wheel? Brass? Steel?
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top