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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I followed the brilliant guide to pre-cat removal and cleaned them out a few weeks ago. I bought new gaskets and bolts as appropriate. The car now produces a fairly bad odur and I am thinking this means the remaining catalyitic convertor needs replacing but would appreciate some feedback, suggestions and or tests to prove it. I don't know that there are any but can't hurt to ask.

I'm guessing replacing the main cat isn't cheap and would rather not if there isn't anything wrong with it.

P.S. I did trawl all the forums and found a person or two with the same complaint but no suggestions or comments on it.
 

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I seem to remenber a very weak smell for a couple of weeks after I gutted mine but it went away. Had pressure washed the inside also so not sure what it was?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cheers guys, some good suggestions. SC forever :)

I did reset the ECU after the gutting. I did the gutting about 3 weeks ago now and it's my daily driver so it gets plenty of use. Running fine. Never had any codes after the work.

I did replace one Oxygen sensor about 1 week before the gutting as it had failed.

Describe the smell. Hmm. I guess the best I can describe is that it isn't pleasent, smells like a mix of fuel and rotten egg and it is a sure thing that if I stay in my garage with the door open I will still end up very, very high.

Not sure if I want to put laquer thinner in my petrol tank, something about that doesn't seem right.

I do have access to Techstream which I haven't yet put on it but not sure that will give me anything of value.

100km service is up soon. Migth get new sparks then, can't hurt.

Just dawned on me that I don't 'know' that I have a main cat. I've only had the car 9 months and I guess it's possible previous owner removed it. Might look to clean it (and prove I have one) via the soap soaking method.
 

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I seem to remenber a very weak smell for a couple of weeks after I gutted mine but it went away. Had pressure washed the inside also so not sure what it was?
That's what she said.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Currently I run on the highest octane you can get in Aus from Shell (Optimax) which is 98+. I've used BP before the pre-cat work so I will give that a go next time I fill up and see what happens. I would never have thought of that one.

Cat and spark plug inspection this weekend. Cheers for the ideas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Wow. That's news to me. I always thought higher octane fuel, to a limit was better for the car and avoided or helped avoid certain issues as well as minimally provide better burn / performance / engine longevity. I've wasted so much money on better fuel. Mind explaining how it makes no difference? I realise the question should be what makes me think it does make a difference.

I know our high octane isn't the same as Japan's, can't comment on US.

Such dismay. Guess that different tank I try will be what the book says I should run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Wow, little harsh mate.

In fact the book says “unleaded gasoline, Research Octane Rating Number 91 or higher." Even if it didn't say that I still wouldn't use that as my driving point. I'm in IT, ever seen the minimum recommendations to run Windows? $20 says no one has ever run their PC on the minimum requirements for more that 5 days without considering stabbing the guy who said it would be fine.

Also from my looking around a higher ron won't hurt the engine but will reduce the possibility of detonation. Sounds to me like a good thing.

Your comment says higher octane = higher compression required to detonate. Shouldn't it say = compression sustainable without ignition.
 
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