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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will be tuning my car at UNRIVALEDTUNING by Danny.

In the check list he sent me it mentions that he needs a Windband 02 bung welded onto the exhaust/downpipe.
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Why does he need this? When I had my car tuned at Church Automotive I did not have this.

Anyway, I want the ability to be able to switch back to stock ECU when needed.
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Circled in red is the bug I added for the 2zz swap with stock cat and exhaust.
Do I need to add another o2 bung or can I just put the air/fuel gauge o2 sensor here and when I go back to stock just switch to the o2 in the picture?

Thanks!
 

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Are you getting a retune here?

I'm also curious why Church doesn't use a wideband O2 plug. They used a tail sniffer on mine. Seems like they're bothing using Dynapack. I had always thought that the wideband sensor was meant for street tuning off the dyno or that turbo applications required it - but I honestly don't know.
 

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AFR ratio in the exhaust tip is not as precise than a wideband plugged into the exhaust tube before cat.
You need two bungs : one for the factory O² sensor and another one for the wideband O² sensor.

As your engine will be tuned, I recommand you to wiring your own O² sensor. You will see when the engine run bad (lean/richer). Wideband sensor is helpful while showing what you can't feel/smell and can prevent you to damage your engine like running very lean during full throttle by example.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
AFR ratio in the exhaust tip is not as precise than a wideband plugged into the exhaust tube before cat.
You need two bungs : one for the factory O² sensor and another one for the wideband O² sensor.

As your engine will be tuned, I recommand you to wiring your own O² sensor. You will see when the engine run bad (lean/richer). Wideband sensor is helpful while showing what you can't feel/smell and can prevent you to damage your engine like running very lean during full throttle by example.
Will having 2 bungs to that pipe restrict flow not much room or length in that part of the exhaust.
Do any of the area circled in red make a good place for 2nd bung?

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Are you getting a retune here?

I'm also curious why Church doesn't use a wideband O2 plug. They used a tail sniffer on mine. Seems like they're bothing using Dynapack. I had always thought that the wideband sensor was meant for street tuning off the dyno or that turbo applications required it - but I honestly don't know.
I did it years ago man times flys... I remember he did use a sensor in the exhaust maybe thats why the tune was not good. come to think of it he is probably use to people having straight pipe or hi-flow cat.
Anyway, using the same pfc I believe it still has the old tune but I remember back then I had issues on cold start and sometimes knock would blink while on the freeway so I went back to stock.
 

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I did it years ago man times flys... I remember he did use a sensor in the exhaust maybe thats why the tune was not good. come to think of it he is probably use to people having straight pipe or hi-flow cat.
Anyway, using the same pfc I believe it still has the old tune but I remember back then I had issues on cold start and sometimes knock would blink while on the freeway so I went back to stock.
Cool. Let me know how your retune feels. I actually got a more conservative tune at Church than the stock MWR map. I raised lift point back up to stock. The car made 200hp on his dynapack.
 

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I would assume that they need a wideband bung and not a wideband gauge. Typically a tuner will install their own wideband sensor into an unused bung to log AFRs while tuning. They don't normally try to watch a gauge in the car while making their pull. Usually it is a logged parameter when tuning.

I would not suggest the ProSport gauge. In my experience they have not had the greatest reliability.
 

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I wound not recommand PRoSport gauge too. My brother has 3 in his Subaru Sti and the boost pressure work sometimes.
I really prefer the Innovate MTX-L or AEM UEGO X-Series (can change the reading in Lambda, AFR or unburned O²).

The welded bung depend where the ceramic is located. I've never see inside the factory catalityc converter.
The most reliable is to use endoscopic camera inside you welded O² sensor, to look where the ceramic start.
Other solution : your current welded bung for the wideband and weld a bung (before the current bung) after the vertical 90° bent section for the narrow band.
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I have some Prosports that I used they work pretty good. The AFR gauge iirc had slightly different readings from the tuners readings. But it was not horrible for what it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Cool. Let me know how your retune feels. I actually got a more conservative tune at Church than the stock MWR map. I raised lift point back up to stock. The car made 200hp on his dynapack.
This time I am going to this person Danny seems to be popular tuner.
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Talked to him on the phone and asking to make a safe tune I'm not after numbers and he seemed confident he could achieve this with the PFC apparently he works with Apexi or something.
I am scheduled to Tune on aug20th.

Let me know what key points I should ask for like you said raised lift points back to stock. So I am guessing lowering lift was not a good experience? Please explain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I would assume that they need a wideband bung and not a wideband gauge. Typically a tuner will install their own wideband sensor into an unused bung to log AFRs while tuning. They don't normally try to watch a gauge in the car while making their pull. Usually it is a logged parameter when tuning.

I would not suggest the ProSport gauge. In my experience they have not had the greatest reliability.
I didn't think so I was just confused because I was not asked to have this when I got tuned at Church automotive.
It just so happen that I installed an air fuel gauge at the same time I will do this project. It sounds like I will get a much better tune having him get readings right after the manifold!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I have some Prosports that I used they work pretty good. The AFR gauge iirc had slightly different readings from the tuners readings. But it was not horrible for what it was.
I just finished and connected it today it was 14.9ish at idle didn't drive yet
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I wound not recommand PRoSport gauge too. My brother has 3 in his Subaru Sti and the boost pressure work sometimes.
I really prefer the Innovate MTX-L or AEM UEGO X-Series (can change the reading in Lambda, AFR or unburned O²).

The welded bung depend where the ceramic is located. I've never see inside the factory catalityc converter.
The most reliable is to use endoscopic camera inside you welded O² sensor, to look where the ceramic start.
Other solution : your current welded bung for the wideband and weld a bung (before the current bung) after the vertical 90° bent section for the narrow band.
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I have Innovate Motorsports for oil pressure/ temp in one gauge. seems to be working good so far.
Thanks you for the great picture. I just got the job done tho here is where I got it placed.
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Let me know what key points I should ask for like you said raised lift points back to stock. So I am guessing lowering lift was not a good experience? Please explain.
I could hear detonating during WOT lift before I took it in. I didn't want to raise lift back to 6200 but it was the solution that worked. He got rid of the huge power dip before lift. I was actually making less power when lift was below 6000. So overall power is now smoother even when not in lift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I could hear detonating during WOT lift before I took it in. I didn't want to raise lift back to 6200 but it was the solution that worked. He got rid of the huge power dip before lift. I was actually making less power when lift was below 6000. So overall power is now smoother even when not in lift.
What mods did you have? what type a of dyno? and numbers?
 
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