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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey guys,
I bought my car about a year ago now with 160k miles. The previous owner told me the PS was dead (the red PS light was on the console) and it was a bear to drive from low speeds. I got used to it and figured, screw it I'll just deal w/ no PS. I thought it was actually kind of fun like this but had never driven the car when it's running properly.

Well fast forward and I signed up for an autocross event, threw some R888s and figured I'd better get this working. I shopped around but couldn't find any used PS pumps, and didn't want to fork out big bucks for a new one.

I checked the fuse and relay. Both were okay.

I did the paperclip diagnostic and it had 2 codes indicating it was overheating. I think the number was "1021" and "1022" or something.

No pics of my own but here's how I fixed mine:
-Removed the plastic around the frunk, checked the PS fluid level. Looked fine.
-Removed the PS pump. This is done with the 3 electrical connectors, two fluid lines, and 3 mounting bolts/nuts. Easy.
-Removed the electric motor cover. This the "cap", the cylinder cover. I think it was 3x 10mm head bolts. Mark the location for re-install of the cap. Don't bother removing the electrical connector's cover -- you probably can't diagnose/fix anything in there anyway.


The electric motor's cap is seen on the left.

Inside the electric motor's cap, I noticed there was TONS of dust. 160k miles worth of dust. Took an air compressor and blew everything out. Blew the cap out etc. The color changed from reddish-brown to shiny copper.

-Reinstalled the cap. Reinstalled the pump. Filled the fluid to minimum. Immediately the light was turned off on my dash and the steering wheel was infinitely lighter. After a couple turns back and forth I put more fluid to the level.

It's now been about 300 miles since and the car still drives perfect.

Cliff notes: Before you replace your PS pump, try cleaning the electric motor!
 

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I'll have to give this a try. I was about to post that my P/S died yesterday but nothing appears to be wrong with it (good fluid level, fuse, etc...).

Do you have to remove the motor to clean it out or can you just blast around it while it's in the car? Outside of changing the oil, air filter and a few flat tires I don't have any automotive experience and I'm not into taking parts out (even easy things) unless I have to.

Edit: Nevermind, I didn't read carefully enough. I see you have to take the motor's cap off, so obviously it has to come out. Looks like I'll be gaining some experience. Do you need to do anything to the fluid lines before you disconnect them? Will they leak all over the place?
 

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Edit: Nevermind, I didn't read carefully enough. I see you have to take the motor's cap off, so obviously it has to come out. Looks like I'll be gaining some experience. Do you need to do anything to the fluid lines before you disconnect them? Will they leak all over the place?
I'd use a turkey baster or similar to empty the P/S fluid as much as possible. Then have rags under the unit prior to disconnecting the lines to catch the fluid.
After you thake the pump out make sure you note how everything is located/orientated and keep everything kleen.
Look at the pictures in the other threads.
Most likely you'll need a three leg puller/pusher to press the shaft with the amature out. A two pronged might also do it?
Assume you have/know a shop who will replace the communtator (if it is the problem).

When reassembling the pump housing with the four studs make sure you thighten them equally and not too much. Couldn't find any torque refs so i did them to 7Nm and used Locktite.
The O-ring on the pump body that is sealing the fluid in from the tank tends to stretch a bit. So, be careful when putting the tank back on that it keeps in place or you'll have a leak from the tank.

Really not difficult but take your time and good luck!
 

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I'd use a turkey baster or similar to empty the P/S fluid as much as possible. Then have rags under the unit prior to disconnecting the lines to catch the fluid.
After you thake the pump out make sure you note how everything is located/orientated and keep everything kleen.
Look at the pictures in the other threads.
Most likely you'll need a three leg puller/pusher to press the shaft with the amature out. A two pronged might also do it?
Assume you have/know a shop who will replace the communtator (if it is the problem).

When reassembling the pump housing with the four studs make sure you thighten them equally and not too much. Couldn't find any torque refs so i did them to 7Nm and used Locktite.
The O-ring on the pump body that is sealing the fluid in from the tank tends to stretch a bit. So, be careful when putting the tank back on that it keeps in place or you'll have a leak from the tank.

Really not difficult but take your time and good luck!
Thanks. I'll post how it goes.
 

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Edit: Nevermind, I didn't read carefully enough. I see you have to take the motor's cap off, so obviously it has to come out.
I don't see any reason why you would need to take the PS unit off to pop the cap off the motor.... far easier to remove the plastics, then you have plenty of working room.

Cool_apple, I'd guess it has some sort of sealant to keep dirt and dust out (or is it "in" ?)
 

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Trying to think ahead here... any special instructions for putting everything back on? I'm assuming you just do everything in reverse and top off the fluid. What type of fluid do I use?
 

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Assemble in reverse. Toyota EH fluid to be safe. Would love to know what special properties this EH fluid has? Perhaps it's got to do with keeping seals in good working order and 'normal' ATF perhaps has additves that aren't so good for the p'steering seals?
Best to use what the manufacturer recommends.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
tried opening the cover before (removed 4 screws), it wanna pop out? was it glued or some safety mechanism ?
As Sepp mentioned no adhesive if I recall. I pried mine apart carefully, I think the magnets inside make it a bit hard as well.

When re-assembling be sure you put that little lock ring thing back in if it comes out.

The fluid's simple, it'll only drizzle a little and when you're done you can start the car, turn the wheel back and forth a few times then add a little fluid etc. Always keep below the High line on these cars.

The whole process I mentioned in post 1 should take under an hour if you have the tools. Really easy on these cars! Hardest part for me was disconnecting the electric wires, I used a tiny screwdriver and a lot of patience.

Good luck.
 

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Success!

I just gave this a go and it worked. As demonkey suggested it took about an hour. The cover wasn't even hard to get off (though it would have been if I didn't know to pull hard).

Thanks to the op and everyone else. Even I did this without a hiccup with just a few wrenches, a screwdriver, turkey baster, and a can of keyboard cleaner. Those electric plugs are a pain though.
 

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EHPS fixed, sort of.

I did this "fix" over the weekend. Power steering is back, but still not 100%. The p/s light comes on after a minute or two of driving, then goes off and on intermittently. Steering is definitely power assisted now, but still a little difficult to turn from a dead stop. Maybe the lines need to be bled? :confused: It might be worth mentioning that I drove with the "dead" pump for about 8 months, though I don't assume that would matter much (if I knew how easy it was to clean I would have done it a long time ago).
 
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