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I've searched the internet to no avail. I'm looking for interior pictures of our cars prepped for racing. I'm curious what it would look like if I saw one in club racing or professional levels even. SDSU's car is the closest I've seen on the boards...

This comes about because I was looking for plastic bits to take off my car and the plastic by your feet seems to be covering a lot of wiring. Would you leave that exposed, leave the plastic in, or make a custom cover for it? Or is it all wiring that isn't necessary for a racecar and can be removed?

Another question, I was trying to remove the plastic on the windshield frame, but the bolts (star? allen wrench) holding the top latch anchor were incredibly tight and seem easy to strip the head. Anyone else have this problem? Anything else I can do besides hit it with a hammer or spray some wd-40 on it?

As always, thanks for the help!
 

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Usually you can leave the wires exposed or put an anti-abrasive sleeve over them but the factory harness would be difficult to do that to. I normally strip the harness down to the essentials removing things like SRS system, audio, and emissions equipment to save weight then sleeve the remaining wires.

As for the "star bolts" you're referring to, those are called Torx head bolts and you can by a set of special sockets to remove them at any hardware store.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Usually you can leave the wires exposed or put an anti-abrasive sleeve over them but the factory harness would be difficult to do that to. I normally strip the harness down to the essentials removing things like SRS system, audio, and emissions equipment to save weight then sleeve the remaining wires.

As for the "star bolts" you're referring to, those are called Torx head bolts and you can by a set of special sockets to remove them at any hardware store.
Thanks for the reply. Seeing as this will still be my daily driver for a while, I think this will be one of those "wait until it's only a racecar" things...darn. I'm trying to get my car as close to a racecar as possible but not have it suck to drive every day (Keeping AC in FL, center console, cup holders, radio, etc.). Carpets might come out next.

I will have to look for those sockets at Lowe's soon. Maybe get a friend to twist while I try to hold it in line/not strip it. (I have the allen wrench that fits, I just can't get enough torque on it and hold it in place at the same time).
 

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I've searched the internet to no avail. I'm looking for interior pictures of our cars prepped for racing. I'm curious what it would look like if I saw one in club racing or professional levels even. SDSU's car is the closest I've seen on the boards...

This comes about because I was looking for plastic bits to take off my car and the plastic by your feet seems to be covering a lot of wiring. Would you leave that exposed, leave the plastic in, or make a custom cover for it? Or is it all wiring that isn't necessary for a racecar and can be removed?

Another question, I was trying to remove the plastic on the windshield frame, but the bolts (star? allen wrench) holding the top latch anchor were incredibly tight and seem easy to strip the head. Anyone else have this problem? Anything else I can do besides hit it with a hammer or spray some wd-40 on it?

As always, thanks for the help!
I left the wires exposed. A more elegant solution is to install a kick panel with foam to protect your ankles in a crash. I believe they sell foam just for that application.

I didn't undo the torx bolts holding the top latches to the A-Pillar. I found that you can actually rip the plastic panels out without damaging them. Your results may vary. :lol:

The following are the closest things I have to interior pictures and/or race prepped MR2.

Yes, that is a package of fireworks right above my charcoal canister. I am a big proponent of safety.


Not mine. Yet.


 

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Most of the plastic around the wires, windshield and doors jams is very light. Would you really game much by removing 4lbs of plastic near the floor of the car?

Most pro race cars have covers for any wires or relays, nothing electric is exposed.
 

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Usually you can leave the wires exposed or put an anti-abrasive sleeve over them but the factory harness would be difficult to do that to. I normally strip the harness down to the essentials removing things like SRS system, audio, and emissions equipment to save weight then sleeve the remaining wires.

As for the "star bolts" you're referring to, those are called Torx head bolts and you can by a set of special sockets to remove them at any hardware store.
Chuck any interest in helping me 'clean up' my harness as you described? Would you do it for 12 pack? Lunch?
 

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Here's my Lancer beater:

Spare tire removal + rear seat removal + passenger seat removal + center console removal + intake/header/downpipe/exhaust seemed to lower the weight enough to notice an increase in pull.

My Spyder is down from 2250 -> 2190 (60lb reduction) with no heat shields, intake/header/downpipe/exhaust, carbon fiber hood, carbon fiber mirrors, racing seats, no spare tire. I still have an upgraded tool bag, roll bar, dvd navi headunit, low profile subwoofer, 16x7 wheels, and full upgraded underbracing on it.



How much weight are you trying to lose? I'd say the fastest/easiest/cheapest way to acheive that is to remove the spare and the passenger seat. You can bolt/unbolt those super fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks guys. I already have my car down to 2050 lbs with a hard-dog roll bar, gas light on, no spare/tools, no top (normally have a hardtop = +50lbs). My goal is below 2000 but I think I'm going to have to start paying (CF, seats etc.) or sacrificing (previous stuff I mentioned I don't want to take out yet).

I think I want to leave the covers in around the feet so I can still give rides at autox's without scaring people for the wrong reasons. Not sure if heat shields are still in or not, and I'm thinking about an air intake replacement. Are pvc intakes race (SCCA club racing and autox - DP) legal or do they have to be official/metal? Suggestions? I know stock one is good, but it's big/heavy right?
 

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What brand of seats are those misojdm? They look good for aftermarket seats in a spyder!
 

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Are pvc intakes race (SCCA club racing and autox - DP) legal or do they have to be official/metal? Suggestions? I know stock one is good, but it's big/heavy right?
an aftermarket intake will weigh less than a home-made pvc intake.
 

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I'm using Cobra Misano replica seats
 

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I have built full mil-spec harness for full race cars but most non-professional racers can't afford a $20k harness. ;)

SDSU- easiest way is to grab a wiring diagram and follow the wires from the component backwards to it's power and ground sources making sure they don't supply any crucial systems, then simply remove them, I do reccomend doing this one harness at a time (front,cabin,rear,engine). If you run into any issues let me know.
 

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I have built full mil-spec harness for full race cars but most non-professional racers can't afford a $20k harness. ;)

SDSU- easiest way is to grab a wiring diagram and follow the wires from the component backwards to it's power and ground sources making sure they don't supply any crucial systems, then simply remove them, I do reccomend doing this one harness at a time (front,cabin,rear,engine). If you run into any issues let me know.
You're right, I can't afford a $20,000 harness. If fact, let me check my wallet to be sure.... yep, it is as I thought. I can't afford a $20,000 anything. :lol:
 

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Looks good!!!!
 

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