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Discussion Starter #1
Welcome back to the SE garage, where our mistakes become your after-dinner conversation.

Rear swaybar installation parts list:

1. Addco 7/8 swaybar
2. 2sRus High and Tight rear endlinks
3. Energy Suspension greaseable bushings (9.5158G)

Tools required:

1. Jack, stands
2. 14mm socket, 14mm combination wrench (x2)
3. Torque wrench
4. Dremel tool with metal grinding bit
5. Lithium grease

Procedure:

First, the good news. This is one of the easiest suspension mods to do. You only need a few tools. As with almost any mod, however, expect the unexpected as you go along.

Clear the decks for business by jacking up the rear end and pulling the wheels. If you have the engine splash guard in place, leave it there.


Grab a 14mm combination wrench and break the nuts holding on the stock endlink. The lower:


And the upper - and if your car is like mine, these come right off:


Leave the endlinks in place - they aren't under load but they'll help hold the bar as you go after the bushing brackets here with the 14mm socket:


As expected, the rear bar is ridiculously easy to remove. It's almost insulting. Pull, a half-twist to clear the tailpipe, and out it comes. If you're timing this job, you'd be at around the 30 min. mark by now. Here's a parts comparison - note how the stock rear sway is a puny, little girlie swaybar, and appreciate the size and machismo of the High and Tights:


Speaking of the bushings, there's a problem. The brackets are too wide and will not fit the holes in the underbody of the chassis. You could drill and tap a new hole (not recommended) or modify the bracket (recommended). Use the dremel tool:


You'll grind the slots on the bracket inward toward the bracket saddle all the way up to the curve. Then the bolts will fit. Grease the bushings, grease the endlink ball pivots. Now, reverse all the above steps to install the Addco. (Make sure the curve in the bar points down.) It'd be nice to have a friend help but it's simple enough solo. So easy, you'll be laughing.

Note that you'll need two 14mm combination wrenches to install the High and Tight endlinks. There's a nut on the inside of the endlink you need to secure as you tighten the outer nut, which you can see in the comparison photo above.

Here's the finished result:


In the above picture, follow the swaybar around to where it runs under the frame. There's a slight indentation there made to accommodate the swaybar. The Addco is so large that it almost makes contact with the body. The ES bushings are large enough to prevent binding and contact, but on my car the clearance is really tight - maybe 1/32 of an inch. The bar rotates in place, but it doesn't move up and down. So as long as you have clearance, you're good to go. If you are getting contact, you'll need spacers under the bushings, and maybe longer bolts.

If you're clear, then affix the wheels, torque the lug nuts to 76 ft lbs and test the bar.

Driving impressions:
I already have the front Addco, which really planted the front - much more than a FSTB - so I was expecting good things from this mod. Just running the front bar, the back end breaks loose predictably and controllably. With the rear, you should have better cornering as you reduce the last of the body roll. On the other hand, I've got Che's rear member braces back there already, so I wasn't expecting any OMG! moments.

Backing out the driveway, I've got a berm at the end where the drive connects with the street. I felt the effect of the rear bar when the tires passed over this bump. Much more solid now. Heading out... Turn One. Nothing dramatic, but very nice. Turn Two. Ah, I see what it's doing. The back feels tightened down like the front. Turn Three. Feels like the power of the car connects with the suspension immediately. Turn Four. Accelerating out of curves feels more authoritative.

On the way back, Turn Four is a sweeping right that I often use to test the back end, because I can break the tires loose an inch or two without drama. This time, I couldn't do it. I didn't go past 7/10 for the test drive, so I'll need more time to discover the new limits of the back end - but they're now beyond what they were. I recommend this mod very highly. PITA factor: One bottle of Stella Artois, and that only because of the bushing issue. Hat tip to lbridges for his advice with the procedure.
 

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Excellent, excellent write-up. I can't wait to discuss this with my wife after dinner.
 

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Originally posted by FriendOfSpyder
I left the wheels on when i did mine....
Maybe it isn't necessary, but it's nice that he removed the wheels so we newbs can better see what's going on under there.

SE, one small request before this goes to the library where it belongs. It looks like the first pic is of the right side and all others are from the left. Would it be possible to flip the first pic to make it look like the left side? Or just label the pics accordingly?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Would it be possible to flip the first pic to make it look like the left side? Or just label the pics accordingly?[/b]
You just did, Mark. Thanks for pointing that out. The left and right side are identical with respect to hardware, but there are differences involving what's behind the bumper. In my case, with the Team Moons, I found it easiest to extract and insert the bar from the left (driver's) side of the car.

Per FOS, You could do this one with the wheels in place, but my jack doesn't get the back up very high, and I like to have lots of room to work. Plus, you can inspect the brakes, clean things up, apply Boeshield to rubber components, stuff like that.

Oh, and in case anybody missed lbridges's remarks on the subject, the regular bushings that ship with the Addco would probably cause trouble. They are shaped wrong and don't fit the bracket securely, and they create bar-to-chassis contact, so the ES bushings are the way to go.
 

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i would of thought with the rear being so thick it would cause definite oversteer, glad to know its not the case at 7/10ths.

but let us know when you hit an autoX event
 

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One point - I found this out after calling out the wrong size wrenches on the front High & Tight in another post (that David Hawkins corrected)....the hex head on the end link stud fits a 1/2" wrench and the nut that fits on the stud takes a 9/16" wrench (the stud itself is 3/8" - 24). Note: I think I used metric wrenches to do my install as well, just assuming they were metric, but I just went out and reaffirmed the SAE sizes.

Otherwise I'd say spot on - and thanks for the credit - due only to me doing the installation before SE, not because of any innate mechanical abilities on my part.
 

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Originally posted by p1ccoloz
i would of thought with the rear being so thick it would cause definite oversteer, glad to know its not the case at 7/10ths.

but let us know when you hit an autoX event
In daily driving I found it does make the rear stick more which can lead to oversteer but, don't know if it was a placebo aspect or what but, the bar seemed to make the car accelerate smoother out of the corners by possibly sticking the inside rear more. Then again I have no idea I'm probably just crazy.


*edit* If you get a beefy front bar I found that it is good to get a better rear, car has some crazy understeer with front bar unless you let random people or your kids drive the car...
 

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You better cover what happens when the stock endlink bolts don't just come loose, and it starts spinning...

Otherwise, nice write up.
 

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Originally posted by Beanie
Another nice how-to-install from SE. No pictures of the Assistant, though?
:wink:
Yeah, I'm getting really tired of waiting. Did you notice somebody slipped a ring on SE's left ring finger?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
i keep reading about suspension under load but in this situation it seems to be safe? and then secondly once replaced is there torque figures for all the nuts involved or is it just hand tight?[/b]
The bar isn't under load, so no worries. You might be thinking of the rear lower members braces, which are under load. No torque specs that I know of for the High and Tights. Use German torque (gutenteit).
 

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tried this today... couldnt get the bolts in, even with modifying the brackets as pointed out above. how far do you have to dremel into the curve? i dont think grinding away anymore will help as the brackets start to go verticle meaning the screw cant go any further inward...

also does it make a difference the the functioning of the bar if you put the dip in the bar facing up instead of down?

I didnt have my addco on when i got my exhaust made
and not the addco wont go on now i have to get my nice exhaust hacked up and re welded


I was just contemplating turing the bar the other way up to see if i got ny more clearance. but wasnt sure if it made the bar work differently.

help appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The curve is supposed to go down. That was told to me by others who had done this job. I took it on faith, but hey - you never know. You could try it the other way, be a pioneer and see.

You have to dremel those brackets a lot, all the way up to the vertical section. Expect to spend at least an hour with each one. When they're ready, there will be exactly enough room to set the bolts and not a millimeter more. Good luck.
 

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thanks for the reply. the way i see it, the normal bar doesn have a kink so its just the diameter of the bar that makes the difference. i cant see that putting the kink the other way round will make the bar work more or less than the alternative position.

some of the bars for front wheel drive cars bend in all sorts of directions and still functions.

im going to try it tomorrow if it is dry. I was working on it today and if started raining then i try to hold out for the rain to pass but it didnt and i was doing a bit of dremeling and i decided to call it a day when i started getting electric shocks from the dremel lol.

anyway, does the addco front have the same issues with the brackets?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
anyway, does the addco front have the same issues with the brackets?[/b]
I don't know. I'm getting ready to have Dave H refab my High and Tights and then I'll redo my brackets and find out.
 
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