MR2 SpyderChat banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've recently purchased Che's header and downpipe and I was wondering what would be a fair price to pay a well known/trusted shop to do the install? I'm not mechanically inclined at all and I don't have time to try and do it myself since I'm going to school 4 days a week and working 6 days. I just don't want to be ripped off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,772 Posts
I've recently purchased Che's header and downpipe and I was wondering what would be a fair price to pay a well known/trusted shop to do the install? I'm not mechanically inclined at all and I don't have time to try and do it myself since I'm going to school 4 days a week and working 6 days. I just don't want to be ripped off.
Well, if you have a brother-in-law you caught cheating on your sister, you may be in for a free-be!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well, if you have a brother-in-law you caught cheating on your sister, you may be in for a free-be!
Unfortunately I only have brother and there is no way on earth that I would let his girlfriend do anything to my car lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
593 Posts
Curious to know if your review is similar to the only review on MW:

"The big dissapointment for me was the cheap gaskets. The lower flanges don't have the grooves to accept toyota's excellent "donut" style seals. Supplied gaskets are a joke and do not seal properly. Right after initial installation lower gasket leaks terribly. One of the supplied studs screws into the machined hole crooked. SAVE YOUR MONEY! Am considering putting back my original precats minus the ceramic inserts. Wish I could return these!!!"

-terry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,645 Posts
If you were in Kentucky, I would charge a case of Corona to install. I would assume a shop would probably charge around $200 give or take.

I think Che still ships his header with the Toyota manifold gasket(thin metal). If it came with a kind of cardboard feeling gasket, get an OEM one before you install it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
698 Posts
still have my number from the orlando meet? I would be more than glad to help you, this way you can start to learn.

might cost you half a tank of gas, and lunch
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
Even if you aren't mechanically inclined you could probably handle it with a basic craftsman tool kit and a service manual :)

As for the above review of the Che header & Down pipe, mine fit perfectly and have no sealing issues. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,033 Posts
I doubt an O2 sensor socket is in any Craftsman tool set. And sometimes those sensors are cross threaded from the factory. You should have anti-seize...and a couple of the bolts are prone to snapping off.

Regardless of all of the above, if you can afford to have your car down in case something goes wrong, I'd encourage you to try it. I'm sure a lot of people here would be willing to walk you through it if you ask nicely and aren't an idiot.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
563 Posts
Yeah but it does come with a 7/8 wrench so you can pull the O2's once you pull the parts out side of the car. But you are right on the factory cross thread issue :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
still have my number from the orlando meet? I would be more than glad to help you, this way you can start to learn.

might cost you half a tank of gas, and lunch
I got a new number and phone and lost my contacts so I actually don't have it anymore. It would be awesome if you could help me out, and I have no problem paying for gas or lunch :lol:

My only problem is that I don't have access to a garage or carport to do the install : /
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,177 Posts
I got a new number and phone and lost my contacts so I actually don't have it anymore. It would be awesome if you could help me out, and I have no problem paying for gas or lunch :lol:

My only problem is that I don't have access to a garage or carport to do the install : /
If he doesn't have a garage I wouldn't mine letting you use mine sometime. It's just a house garage but I've done plenty of work there,it would suffice.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
312 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
That would be awesome, we can have kind of a mini meet haha
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
To do the install you will need the following items it could be done by anyone as long as you know lefty loose, and righty tighty:

12mm deep socket/ratchet
10mm deep socket maybe for tail lights, heat shield, underbody plastics (BTW I just perfer deep sockets vs standard size as I don't need to use a 3inch extension)
Philips (star shaped) screw driver Standard sized Flat head driver one very small flat head screw driver (to help you unplug electrical bits you will thank me)
Crescent Wrench medium sized one for O2 Sensors
Lots of wd-40/liquid wrench/or penetrating lube of choice.
1 small tube of copper anti seize. You will thank me for this if you ever have to remove your exhaust when you change it out or have to service it.

Step 1

Park car over night and soak all bolts on your exhaust heavily with lube of choice. The more you use the better. The ones you want to make sure to soak are the bolts that connect the downpipe to the muffler. These tend to seize up and rust depending on area/if car was driven in the rain. Needless to say don't drive your car till you have done said exhaust swap. Unless you like burning yourself. Yes you would want to jack up the car also, how high depends on how tall you are.

Step 2

Remove rear bumper, it's held in by only 8-10 screws if I remember correctly. I did this a few months ago so it's not super fresh in my mind. There are a few electrical connectors for the license plate lights. Remember to disconnect those. (You can skip this step if you want but makes life much easier. Look around for the screw locations. Some are just plastic retaining screws.

Step 3

Remove heat shields, again this step can be skipped. Just makes life easier. 10mm bolts don't know how many but all easy to get to from what I've seen. Didn't have any on my car so was able to skip this step.

Step 4

Remove O2 sensors, There should be three or four in total depends on what was done to your car. Mine has four but that's cause I have a wideband. Make sure to unplug them first before you start removing them. There are two on your header, and one on the exhaust.

Step 5

Remove underbody plastics if you have them. Again you don't have to do this but makes life easier. Save the cursing for later.

Step 6

Remove rubber exhaust hangers from exhaust. I hope you ate your Wheaties this morning. This part is going to suck. Carefully wiggle loose these rubber bits off your exhaust.

Step 7

Remove Exhaust, depends what you have. Me I had to remove downpipe from header then from muffler, wiggle it all out etc... These from memory should be 12mm nuts, maybe a 14mm nut is in there I forgot. Tip go to Toyota any buy new hardware. Cost will be roughly 40 bucks for all items involved. The OEM exhaust nuts are one time use only.

If you are brave and good at puzzles, just remove the 8 or so nuts on the header and wiggle the entire thing out as one whole unit.

Step 8

Mock up time, with the full exhaust out test fit things together, Don't make things super tight but just check and see what would be best for you to install and in what order what side is better to put the nut on etc....

Step 9

Do everything backwards now. Tip when installing parts like exhaust, I always found better results tightening things in a star shaped pattern for better sealing. Remember to place anti seize on the exhaust studs, and use quality gaskets. Never use a peice of [email protected]#$ paper like gasket on any exhaust component. [email protected]# You Felpro and all your products!!! (from working on "American" muscle cars, only thing I took from that is that I hate working on Vettes, have a strong desire to shoot the idiot that designed the first fuelie Vette engine biggest pain in the ass ever)

Good luck and have fun. Why pay a shop 200 bucks to remove 15 or so bolts when you could do it youself in one afternoon. The more you do the work yourself the more you will like the car/or grow to hate it. This car is very easy for a novice to work on especially on the exhaust side. I was able to show a 5 foot 95lb little Asian girl to do her own exhaust on her spyder, don't get defeated by a girl now. BTW all on her own it took her 2 hours and that included me pointing and laughing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,932 Posts
To do the install you will need the following items it could be done by anyone as long as you know lefty loose, and righty tighty:

12mm deep socket/ratchet
10mm deep socket maybe for tail lights, heat shield, underbody plastics (BTW I just perfer deep sockets vs standard size as I don't need to use a 3inch extension)
Philips (star shaped) screw driver Standard sized Flat head driver one very small flat head screw driver (to help you unplug electrical bits you will thank me)
Crescent Wrench medium sized one for O2 Sensors
Lots of wd-40/liquid wrench/or penetrating lube of choice.
1 small tube of copper anti seize. You will thank me for this if you ever have to remove your exhaust when you change it out or have to service it.

Step 1

Park car over night and soak all bolts on your exhaust heavily with lube of choice. The more you use the better. The ones you want to make sure to soak are the bolts that connect the downpipe to the muffler. These tend to seize up and rust depending on area/if car was driven in the rain. Needless to say don't drive your car till you have done said exhaust swap. Unless you like burning yourself. Yes you would want to jack up the car also, how high depends on how tall you are.

Step 2

Remove rear bumper, it's held in by only 8-10 screws if I remember correctly. I did this a few months ago so it's not super fresh in my mind. There are a few electrical connectors for the license plate lights. Remember to disconnect those. (You can skip this step if you want but makes life much easier. Look around for the screw locations. Some are just plastic retaining screws.

Step 3

Remove heat shields, again this step can be skipped. Just makes life easier. 10mm bolts don't know how many but all easy to get to from what I've seen. Didn't have any on my car so was able to skip this step.

Step 4

Remove O2 sensors, There should be three or four in total depends on what was done to your car. Mine has four but that's cause I have a wideband. Make sure to unplug them first before you start removing them. There are two on your header, and one on the exhaust.

Step 5

Remove underbody plastics if you have them. Again you don't have to do this but makes life easier. Save the cursing for later.

Step 6

Remove rubber exhaust hangers from exhaust. I hope you ate your Wheaties this morning. This part is going to suck. Carefully wiggle loose these rubber bits off your exhaust.

Step 7

Remove Exhaust, depends what you have. Me I had to remove downpipe from header then from muffler, wiggle it all out etc... These from memory should be 12mm nuts, maybe a 14mm nut is in there I forgot. Tip go to Toyota any buy new hardware. Cost will be roughly 40 bucks for all items involved. The OEM exhaust nuts are one time use only.

If you are brave and good at puzzles, just remove the 8 or so nuts on the header and wiggle the entire thing out as one whole unit.

Step 8

Mock up time, with the full exhaust out test fit things together, Don't make things super tight but just check and see what would be best for you to install and in what order what side is better to put the nut on etc....

Step 9

Do everything backwards now. Tip when installing parts like exhaust, I always found better results tightening things in a star shaped pattern for better sealing. Remember to place anti seize on the exhaust studs, and use quality gaskets. Never use a peice of [email protected]#$ paper like gasket on any exhaust component. [email protected]# You Felpro and all your products!!! (from working on "American" muscle cars, only thing I took from that is that I hate working on Vettes, have a strong desire to shoot the idiot that designed the first fuelie Vette engine biggest pain in the ass ever)

Good luck and have fun. Why pay a shop 200 bucks to remove 15 or so bolts when you could do it youself in one afternoon. The more you do the work yourself the more you will like the car/or grow to hate it. This car is very easy for a novice to work on especially on the exhaust side. I was able to show a 5 foot 95lb little Asian girl to do her own exhaust on her spyder, don't get defeated by a girl now. BTW all on her own it took her 2 hours and that included me pointing and laughing.
Excellent write-up! I would emphasize the need for drenching the "three amigo" bolts and all the hardware for the heat shields and the downpipe/exhaust flange junction. Do it a couple times a day for a couple days prior to surgery. Also, I would add a breaker bar to the above tool kit (leverage is your friend). Another thing, as long as you are careful, you can certainly remove the O2 sensors with an "Arkansas Metric Wrench (a.k.a. crescent wrench:)). This is a fairly dirty procedure, but it is pretty straightforward--you should absolutely take these guys up on their offers for guidance and knock this one out yourself--you will be glad you did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
475 Posts
That would be awesome, we can have kind of a mini meet haha
I might be able to add a body to the mini meet and installation effort. If you could use the help or company, just tell me where and when.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,932 Posts
Excellent write-up! I would emphasize the need for drenching the "three amigo" bolts and all the hardware for the heat shields and the downpipe/exhaust flange junction. Do it a couple times a day for a couple days prior to surgery. Also, I would add a breaker bar to the above tool kit (leverage is your friend). Another thing, as long as you are careful, you can certainly remove the O2 sensors with an "Arkansas Metric Wrench (a.k.a. crescent wrench:)). This is a fairly dirty procedure, but it is pretty straightforward--you should absolutely take these guys up on their offers for guidance and knock this one out yourself--you will be glad you did.
Edit: Also... go to Autozone (while you are picking up PB Blaster, sockets, breaker bar, et al, and buy an assorted kit of metric hardware (nuts, bolts, wahers). That way you always bhave what you broke/stripped/lost. It always pays to plan ahead. Like: bring an old blanket, you are going to spend some time on the ground. Are you going to use ramps? This made life much easier. +1 for OEM gaskets for header and downpipe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,029 Posts
To do the install you will need the following items it could be done by anyone as long as you know lefty loose, and righty tighty:

12mm deep socket/ratchet
10mm deep socket maybe for tail lights, heat shield, underbody plastics (BTW I just perfer deep sockets vs standard size as I don't need to use a 3inch extension)
Philips (star shaped) screw driver Standard sized Flat head driver one very small flat head screw driver (to help you unplug electrical bits you will thank me)
Crescent Wrench medium sized one for O2 Sensors
Lots of wd-40/liquid wrench/or penetrating lube of choice.
1 small tube of copper anti seize. You will thank me for this if you ever have to remove your exhaust when you change it out or have to service it.

Step 1

Park car over night and soak all bolts on your exhaust heavily with lube of choice. The more you use the better. The ones you want to make sure to soak are the bolts that connect the downpipe to the muffler. These tend to seize up and rust depending on area/if car was driven in the rain. Needless to say don't drive your car till you have done said exhaust swap. Unless you like burning yourself. Yes you would want to jack up the car also, how high depends on how tall you are.

Step 2

Remove rear bumper, it's held in by only 8-10 screws if I remember correctly. I did this a few months ago so it's not super fresh in my mind. There are a few electrical connectors for the license plate lights. Remember to disconnect those. (You can skip this step if you want but makes life much easier. Look around for the screw locations. Some are just plastic retaining screws.

Step 3

Remove heat shields, again this step can be skipped. Just makes life easier. 10mm bolts don't know how many but all easy to get to from what I've seen. Didn't have any on my car so was able to skip this step.

Step 4

Remove O2 sensors, There should be three or four in total depends on what was done to your car. Mine has four but that's cause I have a wideband. Make sure to unplug them first before you start removing them. There are two on your header, and one on the exhaust.

Step 5

Remove underbody plastics if you have them. Again you don't have to do this but makes life easier. Save the cursing for later.

Step 6

Remove rubber exhaust hangers from exhaust. I hope you ate your Wheaties this morning. This part is going to suck. Carefully wiggle loose these rubber bits off your exhaust.

Step 7

Remove Exhaust, depends what you have. Me I had to remove downpipe from header then from muffler, wiggle it all out etc... These from memory should be 12mm nuts, maybe a 14mm nut is in there I forgot. Tip go to Toyota any buy new hardware. Cost will be roughly 40 bucks for all items involved. The OEM exhaust nuts are one time use only.

If you are brave and good at puzzles, just remove the 8 or so nuts on the header and wiggle the entire thing out as one whole unit.

Step 8

Mock up time, with the full exhaust out test fit things together, Don't make things super tight but just check and see what would be best for you to install and in what order what side is better to put the nut on etc....

Step 9

Do everything backwards now. Tip when installing parts like exhaust, I always found better results tightening things in a star shaped pattern for better sealing. Remember to place anti seize on the exhaust studs, and use quality gaskets. Never use a peice of [email protected]#$ paper like gasket on any exhaust component. [email protected]# You Felpro and all your products!!! (from working on "American" muscle cars, only thing I took from that is that I hate working on Vettes, have a strong desire to shoot the idiot that designed the first fuelie Vette engine biggest pain in the ass ever)

Good luck and have fun. Why pay a shop 200 bucks to remove 15 or so bolts when you could do it youself in one afternoon. The more you do the work yourself the more you will like the car/or grow to hate it. This car is very easy for a novice to work on especially on the exhaust side. I was able to show a 5 foot 95lb little Asian girl to do her own exhaust on her spyder, don't get defeated by a girl now. BTW all on her own it took her 2 hours and that included me pointing and laughing.
3 & 4 are backwards, gotta take the O2's off before the heatshield, upper shield doesn't pull off with them in, and I would probably put removing the plastics before pulling the 3 amigos, it was easier for me to get at 'em from underneath.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
614 Posts
Thanks, I didn't have heat shields on mine and forgot the order from pointing and laughing at my friend too much. Needless to say she earned some car credits from the process.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,177 Posts
Excellent write-up! I would emphasize the need for drenching the "three amigo" bolts and all the hardware for the heat shields and the downpipe/exhaust flange junction. Do it a couple times a day for a couple days prior to surgery. Also, I would add a breaker bar to the above tool kit (leverage is your friend). Another thing, as long as you are careful, you can certainly remove the O2 sensors with an "Arkansas Metric Wrench (a.k.a. crescent wrench:)). This is a fairly dirty procedure, but it is pretty straightforward--you should absolutely take these guys up on their offers for guidance and knock this one out yourself--you will be glad you did.
x2!!! Don't do it without a breaker bar. I'm sure you can, but the breaker bar and PB blaster made a WORLD of difference for me. Can't stress those two enough they will be your best friends. Now I've never heard anyone mention it but I keep a cheap pair of goggles and a pack of painters mask in my garage. Generous penetrating oil makes the garage, especially under the car, unpleasant to breathe in, and on the 3 amigos the moment I took of my eye protection ofcourse oil got in my eyes. Not neccessities to have but for me I've noted they make my life easier.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top