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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my car for a year now...and enjoyed every minute of it! :D
Picked her up on 01 July 2011.



The initial reason for buying the Spyder was that it would be my dedicated track car. Now though, after the amount of fun I have with it, it's more a DD. So it eventually will be a dual-purpose road and track car.

In actual fact, before the Spyder was even a thought, I began by choosing the engine I wanted...a high-revving, normally aspirated 4A-GE 20v.

The engine was supposed to originally go into my FWD AE92 Corolla, also as a track car. However, while I was accumulating engine parts for the build, I switched the choice of car to the MR2...having taken one for a "spirited" drive, I was sold on the feel of the drive, the MR layout and simplicity...and it would allow me to still use the 4A-GE.

I have not as yet assembled the 20v engine as I am patiently trying to get the rest of the car ready before the engine goes in. Still have a quite a bit to do before the new engine setup goes in...Tein Coilovers, Powerbrake discs and pads, bracing, gauges, bodykit, etc

But, in the one year I have had my Spyder, here is what I have done...

First changes:
- Replaced all missing & broken clips, screws, pin-cushion rubbers etc.
- Replaced orange fender indicators / turn signals with clear ones
- Smoked the rear turn signal and reverse light

Then came the I.C.E.:
- Clarion DXZ785usb HU
- JL Audio TR650CWi 6.5" split system


- MWR shifter
- TRD Duracon gear lever


- New inner door handles


Then it was time for the wheels & tyres:
- Advan Racing RZ - 17"x7.5" ET35 (F+R)
- Bridgestone Sports Tourer MY-01 205/40/17 (F)
- Bridgestone Potenza S001 205/40/17 (R)
Before:

After:


- Door unlock switch illuminates on Key "ON":


- Callipers painted yellow


- Added rear spoiler


- New exhaust tip


The car currently:



AND...eliminated all but one rattle ^_^

Parts not yet installed - either busy customising, or waiting for time to install.
- OEM MR-S badge
- OEM black J-spec nose badge
- Face-lift rear bumper vent assembly
- Face-lift side intake vents
- Passenger airbag replacement console (storage compartment which replaces the passenger airbag)




Still far from the engine transplant, but here's pics of some of the engine goodies:
Base engine: 4A-GE 20v (Black Top)
- TODA camshafts
- TODA cam gears / sprockets
- TODA valve springs
- TODA timing belt
- Wiseco custom-spec pistons
- Carrillo Conrods
- ARP custom Head studs
- ARP Main studs
- ARP Flywheel
- ARP conrod bolts


 

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Dude your car is turning out to something really realy cool.

can wait to try out 2zz vs your built 20v

where did you get those rear fittings for your bumper?
 

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Hey Kimesh, the spyder is looking good man. Love the new wheels, cant go wrong with advans :lol:, did u get them from Jerry? Im want to get the face lift rear inserts when i get some time, were did u get them?
 

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How did you do the illuminated door lock switch? Did you change it out for a switch out of a different model?

I'm very interested in this mod.

Great looking car also, tastefully done!
 

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Has a 20v ever been swapped into a Spyder before?

Car looks great and will look even better when you get the coilovers on.
4ag formula atlantic engine has been used in the spyder. But the transmission is different for the formula atlantic.

If you massage the inside of the motor you can make around 230hp with a 20V NA. Technosquare does some good work with the 4ag based engines.

This is the car with the formula atlantic engine.



 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@ Rampage - thanks, will do!

@ halfbar - that is true. I previously had a 20v in my AE92...and in all fairness, it smoked most 2ZZ's, despite its 200cc less. I also wanted to do something a bit different:)

@ silverbullet & Ricky - thanks guys. Can hook you up with the rear bumper inserts...:cool:
2GR would be the ultimate! When are we hooking up?

@ nocoolname - thanks bro. Regarding the switch, I just wired up the existing one - there is a bulb already there, just that it was never wired up from the factory, like with all our Spyders. green is the default colour it illuminates, though I don't see why that can't be changed.
I will put some detailed pics on how to do the switch illumination. Mine currently lights up at the ON position. I am away for the weekend right now, but will add in the pics during the next few days.
The only issue I have is that you cant make the factory passenger window lock, mirror controls, and dashlight dimmer light up as well, but I am looking for other OEM switches that do light up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Has a 20v ever been swapped into a Spyder before?

Car looks great and will look even better when you get the coilovers on.
I believe it has - 3 mountings will remain the same. 1 will change (pulley side mounting)
Thanks bro, considering on whether to drop in a set of Tein S-tech for the time being...
BTW, I love your Spyder!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
:wub:
4ag formula atlantic engine has been used in the spyder. But the transmission is different for the formula atlantic.

If you massage the inside of the motor you can make around 230hp with a 20V NA. Technosquare does some good work with the 4ag based engines.

This is the car with the formula atlantic engine.



Spot on!

I believe the Formula Atlantic engines were all 16v. The engine i'm building is based on the Group N2 20v...and these made up to 240hp iirc.

Living in Johannnesburg at this altitude, its going to be a battle to extract 230-250 horses from an NA 1.6...but if I can get anywhere around 230, I'd be over the moon!

So far, I have managed to save a lot of weight on the internal components, totalling to around 5kgs if you include the lightened flywheel...so it should rev like a bike.

If everything goes well, and pans out the way I want it to, a sequential box will be the cherry on top.
 

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Formula Atlantic car is sooo sexxy!

Anyone have any idea where to pick up a passenger airbag storage converter lid thing?
I'v been looking for that forever, but cant seem to find it anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Die$el - thanks bro.
Runs on a circuit, hell yeah! :) Those runs will be long way from now though...

Just out of curiosity, why did you choose different tyres for front and rear?
Two reasons:
1. I was trying to put a theory to test...
2. I was worried about the clearance and rubbing with a 17x7.5" ET 35.

1. The theory:
Pirelli make some tyres in their tyre range that come out standard fitment with directional tyres at the front, and assymetric tyres at the rear (P Zero System, P Zero Rosso, P Zero Corsa) for high-end cars, some mid-engined.
To quote them:
"The result is high directional stability and, also at higher speeds, exceptional levels of grip on dry and wet surfaces and high resistance to aquaplaning."

In my opinion from what I have tried and tested across a few wheel and tyre combos, I feel that there is some truth to this theory, though it depends on other factors as well like tyre compound etc.
Only thing was, Pirelli don't make them in my sizes.

I've always been a Bridgestone fan,and used them many times before and the results were always good. They had sizes I was after in both directional and assymetric configurations, though they were from two different ranges.

2. The MY-01 has a smaller tread width than the Potenza, despite being the exact same 205/40/17 dimension, so I thought it would not rub. And my choices of the sizes were in trying to keep the increase in rolling circumference as minimal as possible, and as close to the original rolling circumference as possible.

Only thing I dont like the tyre stretch of the MY-01 on the 7.5" wheel, so I will soon be putting the 205/40/17 Potenza's up front, and will widen the front arches slightly to accomodate them. The MY-01's will be replaced with Potenza S001 in 215/40/17 which will now go at the rear.

What are yours thoughts on having an assymetric and directional combo...fact or myth?
 

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kimesh fill in about the rear inserts.

i passed you on the N3, i was on the way down to durban, hard to miss your car.

my car is almost done..........
 
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