MR2 SpyderChat banner
1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Please help! any advise would be wonderful.
Here is the situation, My 2001 was "starved" of oil. Ie, not registering on the dipstick. I did not realize this until my engine started to make a slight tick. It speeds up with acceleration. I have tried changing the oil and putting resloan in the oil. This had no effect.

From what I think it sounds like, i think it is a spun bearing. A few of my friends seem to think the same. I want to get a couple other of ideas of WHY this happened. I realize i starved my engine of oil and that could be the cause, But WHY is it eating so much oil? (will run off the dipstick in around 300 mi)

Any ideas before i take this thing apart?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It happened because you had no oil on your dipstick

How do you know you were eating a lot of oil?
when was the last time you checked your oil
how many miles did you drive since that time?

Reason of loosing oil include: Leaks, burning from rings and or valves. Precat failure is a possible cause of excessive burning do to damage to cylinder and rings.

The engine is likely toast. You should read up on precat failure and if this is what has happened to you then you need a new engine a new main CAT and you gut your current header and reuse it now Precat free.

if it is not precat death and its just you ran out of oil then you need a new engine (and you might as well get rid of the precats while this is being done.

I think that should sum it up

Oh yeah the 1zz does not do well with rebuilds you are better off with a used engine or a new short block from toyota and reusing your current hear (which may need a rebuild)
I only noticed once the tick began. When i bought the car there was no tick and it was full on oil. Once the tick began I parked it because i thought there may be damage if i kept driving. It does not have white blue smoke so i don't think it is burning oil, and it is not leaking, or at least not on my garage floor.
As for your summary or thoughts on the car, changing the possible spun bearings wont fix the problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,736 Posts
Also, for good measure check the timing chain tensioner. The rubber seal could be bad and causing a leak. My old 1zz was burning and leaking, and the used replacement I bought had a slight leak from the same location. I replaced the part and so far so good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,966 Posts
Oil doesn't evaporate of disappear into the ether. You engine is either burning it or leaking it (or both). My guess it that it suffers from pre-cat death syndrome and the previous owner knew it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,403 Posts
If you don't know the cars oil consumption then dropping the pan to check the rod bearings may be a waste of time. Hopefully not but if consumption is more than 1qt per 1000mi you may not get much life out of the engine if the bearings are replaced. If the journals for the connecting rods are in good shape, smooth no groves, getting proper sized bearings will probalby give more life to the engine. Not sure if the time and money is worth it to you but I would at least look. It is my understanding the timing chain cover likes to leak near the chain tensioner. You should find a sloppy mess of oil somewhere if you have a big leak, otherwise I would suspect rings = much bigger problem $$$$. I checked the oil on my newly purchased 2001 every couple of days to establish what usage was if any. I burn a qt per change, no leaks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
How do you know if the vehicle suffers from precat death? What causes that and is there anyway to prevent it if that not the problem? It is difficult to say how much oil I burned because It parked now . I dropped the pan and am in the process to see if my bearings are spun or not. I only checked one of them so far and it was fine. But I haven't checked the two that I think are the problems. My only question is, if I keep oil In the engine and not let it run low again wont I be ok? Is there anything else I should do while the pan is off? Thanks guys
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,055 Posts
There is a sticky on precat death. Read that. If you are burning oil from that you will be adding almost as much oil as gas. As has been said before you won't see smoke but the oil will disappear. The car was full of oil when you bought it because the previous owner likely knew there was a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,792 Posts
>1 qt every 300 miles? Don't bother with rod bearings. Find a used engine, or a new shortblock. You can't put a 1" bandaid on a 6" cut.

You think you have a spun bearing so you put a solvant (Rislone is basically kerosene) in your oil?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,986 Posts
You could keep oil in it and not let it run low again. I've done it for over two years. But this is how my sparkplugs looked after that.



I've seen my valves, they weren't much prettier....

I would also advise you to get a spare oilcap. With the amount of times you will be checking and filling oil, you are bound to forget to screw the cap on again one or two times.....

You are looking at a replacement engine or a new shortblock.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
update

Update. I dropped the pan and checked the bearings, middle two were shot. This is assumed to have happened because of the lack of oil caused by precat death. So anyone with next step? I'm thinking about buying a rebuild, I have no solid sources of a rebuild engines anyone have any reliable places?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
A lot of people on this forum advise against a rebuilt engine, a lot of bad experiences with those. The problem is with bored cylinders, you'd be better off getting a new short block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,792 Posts
You need part # 11400-22122

Or you can try a Cap Weir on-the-car bearing replacement. Tough job for us mortals, though.

Best bet might be to find a lower-mileage Corolla or Matrix engine, though. 2003+ Spyder engines tend to be pricey. Even better bet is your Spyder head on a low-miles Corolla block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
782 Posts
If you're wondering the difference between the 1zz FE in the corolla/matrix and the 1zz FED in the celica/MR2 is the valve size. Thats why mike mentioned keeping your stock head and installing on a more common corolla/matrix block.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,792 Posts
If you're wondering the difference between the 1zz FE in the corolla/matrix and the 1zz FED in the celica/MR2 is the valve size. Thats why mike mentioned keeping your stock head and installing on a more common corolla/matrix block.
That plus the Spyder engine has puny rods. I'm not convinced the slightly larger valves do much of anything for airflow except maybe right near redline, though. But that's a guess.

Let's put it this way -- if I were buying a used 1ZZ, I'd go for a $600 Corolla engine over a $1600 Spyder engine any day of the week.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top