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If a MAF dont send signal to ECU, this last one will run like if the MAF is disconnected (3000 rpm limits that you had).

I had P0100 too. Replacing the MAF resolved it. If I have reading right, you resolved this issue.
Rich or lean CEL can come from leaking exhaust/header, too cold spark plugs indices etc.
With 1zz/2zz, only P0135 and P0155 are direct linked to P0420.

You say "misfires heavily slowing down acceleration between 6500 rpm and 7k rpm". What year is your 2ZZ engine?
It's the range when the lift is activate. Didi you cheak lifts bolts and camshafts? Do you have cheked engine oil level?
If lifts bolts and camshafts are in bad shape, you'll have to replace them. There is no sensor here, so none CEL will say to you "lift bolt is broken".
This is something you have to cheak yourself by making 2ZZ research. This engine, like other, has good and bad things.

Nobody can tell that an engine run rich or lean without wideband. Basically, you don't feel anything.
It's only when it run too rich or too lean that you feel engine less torquey, but only on full throttle.
So don't underestimate rich/lean CEL codes or you can break the engine yourself.

With a wideband, you will be scaried how run lean/rich an engine can run.
I am always affraid when sometime I see lambda 0,83 or 1,20 on the wideband gauge (on idlle or normal driving).

To get better/quicker help, write all thing that has been done during the swap.
It will be better than adding new capitals informations every 2 replies.

Cap Weir and 2ZZ users can help you.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Please Clarify..

When you put in the NEW MAF Sensor, you got a P100 Code?. That is a Bad 'New' Sensor..

I'd source a Better 'New' Maf sensor and try again..

Cap
When I put the new MAF sensor in, the car would not go past 3500 rpm, I then took that one out per your instructions, I am using my old MAF sensor, that is now giving me the P0100 code.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Forminfunction,
I did not have the swap done at MWR, I had the swap done with nocoolname.
I did the swap in 2015, so about 5 years now, I have done no further mods since then

I had the defouler on since the swap, however I had an exhaust leak, that I thought was giving me the lean error. the gasket in the exhaust between precats and first o2 sensor was beaten up bad for some reason and I needed to replace it as it was leaking exhaust. giving me bad hesitation when starting the car rolling, rough idle especially when cold. (this is also the time when I noticed the Lift misfire issue where it would make misfire noises if I went into lift but under normal load seemed fine.) when I replaced the gasket this is when I pulled the defouler, wondering if that might also be causing the running lean as the O2 sensor wasnt in the stream of exhaust good enough. made sense to me at the time, now I understand I was incorrect. These were all the symptoms I first noticed the car running bad

I had been fighting random misfire issues due to standing water in the coil pack ravine, for the last few years. I just recently working with this error bought a lotus cover (couldnt find one I could justify price on with the low income I have.) I have it, but an not sure exactly how to get it on there as the bolts that the cover attaches to is not long enough. this was going to be what I approached after I got the car back running properly without the issues and CEL light. but yes I agree much cheaper to buy a cover than coil packs. I was unaware that I might need to replace the spark plugs also, and can do so if that probably needed as well as the coil packs.

Funnyman,
I did not have the P0100 error on the old MAF I am using, untill I pulled the MAF from the car to put the new one on, thinking that my issue with hesitation could have been the MAF sensor. I then when I put the brand new MAF, got the issue of limiting revs to like 3kish RPM. As per instructions with Cap, I pulled the new MAF and put my old MAF back on which is now giving me the P0100 error.

I do not remember the Year of my 2ZZ, sorry bought it 5 years ago, I'll have to hunt for the receipt I have it somewhere around here. I have not checked the lift bolts, I know we replaced the lift bolts when I installed the engine in the car per NOCOOLNAME was telling me that they are a PITA to get at when the engine is installed.

as far as how the car is acting, I do notice a very very small amount of hesitation when I first put down the gas petal from a stop, that goes away almost instantly. then the car operates fine under RPM from 1k to 5.5K RPM, once it hits lift, this is when its seems to get odd. sometimes it hits lift fine at 5.5 and goes up to 6.5k then starts to stutter, making sounds like its doing mini misfires and gets very sluggish with acceleration, till 7k RPM then goes back to normal lift. other times it will instead start the stuttering immediately in lift with less effect to acceleration until it hits about 6.5k RPMs and then gets sluggish acceleration.

This was the items I picked up for my swap, the only thing that I would need to add on this is the 2ZZ engine I picked up used and a C60 tranny. Since the swap I had replaced one coil pack due to misfire and I think was based on standing water. and now I have replaced all four. I also had to replace one of the ebrake cables which I had to drop the gas tank for, and I had an issue where my clutch had a spring that blew on it, so I had to replace my clutch both clutches I got from DDPR though I believe the first was a stage 2 and this one I have is a stage 3 clutch. although I would need to look at receipts I dont have in front of me to verify. Hope this all helps, any other questions or clarifications ill do my best to answer. I am also going to go out today and see if the exhaust is still leaking from the replaced donut gasket. I thought that had cleared up with the new gasket, but It might not have and could have been a small leak. if it is still leaking, even with the good donut on it, what would be my next step?

77156

77157

77158
 

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Great info, very helpful. I don’t know Nocoolname personally but everything I’ve seen regarding what he posts has shown that he legit knows his stuff. Since he replaced your lift bolts I would assume he did so with the newer, updated bolts. If I’m reading everything correctly you now have the exhaust leak resolved (I know you said you had to double check), the defouler back in place, & the original MAF sensor back in. If this is all correct, at this point I would replace the plugs, ensure coils are bone dry, clean the original MAF sensor if it wasn’t cleaned prior to reinstallation, and drive the car CONSERVATIVELY until the MIL fully resets. The symptoms of hesitation can be solely from coils that got wet & never dried (ask me how I know.) Of course if you get that p0100 you will likely need to source a new, working MAF sensor, then try again. While a royal pain, a large trash bag over the engine will keep everything dry but you need to put a piece of tape or something on the steering wheel to remember to remove it prior to driving (again...get that cover ASAP!).

TBH I’m leaning towards your issue being due to wet plugs because you haven’t done any recent mods and the car has been running well as is for some time; it’s just the p0100 code & exhaust leak muddy the water just a touch.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Great info, very helpful. I don’t know Nocoolname personally but everything I’ve seen regarding what he posts has shown that he legit knows his stuff. Since he replaced your lift bolts I would assume he did so with the newer, updated bolts. If I’m reading everything correctly you now have the exhaust leak resolved (I know you said you had to double check), the defouler back in place, & the original MAF sensor back in. If this is all correct, at this point I would replace the plugs, ensure coils are bone dry, clean the original MAF sensor if it wasn’t cleaned prior to reinstallation, and drive the car CONSERVATIVELY until the MIL fully resets. The symptoms of hesitation can be solely from coils that got wet & never dried (ask me how I know.) Of course if you get that p0100 you will likely need to source a new, working MAF sensor, then try again. While a royal pain, a large trash bag over the engine will keep everything dry but you need to put a piece of tape or something on the steering wheel to remember to remove it prior to driving (again...get that cover ASAP!).

TBH I’m leaning towards your issue being due to wet plugs because you haven’t done any recent mods and the car has been running well as is for some time; it’s just the p0100 code & exhaust leak muddy the water just a touch.
I just ordered today some new spark plugs, will clean the MAF sensor again when I pull them. Any advice on how to get the lotus plate on after I am done replacing the spark plugs? I think I saw a thread on it, but I am not 100% sure I understood the tools i would need.
 

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I just got some studs of the appropriate thread pitch & length (I honestly don’t remember what those are for the life of me). Then basically double nut method to get the studs in, sandwich the cover between 2 nuts (also use washers), make sure the height is just above the engine cover so you have no rattling & you’re done
 
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