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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
105xxx miles orginial 1ZZ gutted precats about 6k miles ago (never had any precat death symptoms).

O2 sensors replaced 5k miles ago,Oil changed about 2k ago, MAF cleaned about 2k ago w/ ECU reset.

Driving just fine (as it always has for me) Saturday - I don't usually get on it hard but I had it running at 95 and it was running strong. Doing ordinary arterial driving yesterday, noticed some sputtering in accelerating from a stop in rpm range from about 500 to 2000, noticing some slight loss of power. Got on an onramp from a red light and noticed huge drop in power, laboring to get above 45 mph towards freeways speeds. CEL began flashing at this point and I pulled over and powered off. Let is sit for a few then restarted, idle was rough and CEL was steady on. Put in first and gave a little gas, sputtered and began to flash. This happened in 3 minutes, start to finish. Had it towed to a repair shop (reputable regional Japanese).

Checked oil level, it was fairly low although I admittedly couldn't get what I felt to be an accurate oil level read. Opened oil cap, couldn't see any oil though not sure if that is normal. Never noticed any symptoms of oil consumption, or any engine symptoms for that matter.

Temp gauge was normal throughout, and the most confounding thing is that the oil light never lit (I had to stop and think if this car had an oil light since I have never seen it). Is the MKIII's oil light a reliable system or does it only come on too late? Sounds like could be vacuum leak, spark plugs/coil packs, fuel filter...?

Thanks in advance (Cap)
 

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Oil is super important in the 1zz.If your not ticking or knocking you dodged a bullet.What was the code for the CEL? Until you get the code read were just guessing here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oil is super important in the 1zz.If your not ticking or knocking you dodged a bullet.What was the code for the CEL? Until you get the code read were just guessing here.
No code just yet, I didn't have a reader at the time and shop was closed but should have it this morning when they get back to me.

No ticking or knocking...If it were an oil consumption issue, I would have to think there would have been some warning signs.
 

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Compression Pressures, and Spark Plug health ...and Codes if any.. Then down the List is Coil Pack, and Injector Troubles..

As said before.. if no Knocks, she is good.. Likely Accessories.. Plugs, Injectors, Coils..

Had a RASH of bad Crank Sensors lately over the Pond.. don't know what's up with that..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Flashing CEL are usually an indication of significant misfires such that damage to the catalytic converter is likely.

I could be an exhaust obstruction - something in your catalytic converter that is restricting flow creating back pressure

if you see the oil light it is too late.


2K on an oil change and being low sounds like a large loss from leak or burn or both.

Did you get bad gas? did the problem correspond to a recent fill up?
I didn't have the proper rag to clean off the dipstick so I am not sure if oil level is the culprit here, it was a sketchy reading, and it was running and sounding strong not 10 minutes prior to this.

No bad gas, I use Shell 87 exclusively and I am probably 2/3 into this tank. Again, ran markedly strong just one day prior to this incident.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Misfire in cyl 1,2 and random misfire.

Diagnosis - plugs and coil packs.
 

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Missfire on 1 and two..

They do not use a Common O2 Sensor.. nor a anything else that I am aware of.. Except Head Gaskett Web.

I would proceede as a Random Missfire.. and be cautious of what is happning in one and two..

Compression pressures
Plug Condition


Blown head gaskett will make it run like crap, and the Cylinders are next to each other, so a Combustion Leak in the Gaskett would cause 1 and 2 problems..

Compression Pressures need checking..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah the plugs were due for replacement, funny how those things are always right on time for their rating. Replacing plugs and all 4 coils...

Trims were off as well both short and long something like 20% (maxed?). Weird that fuel economy was typical for me though.
 

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How much mileage do you have on your car? Just curious about plug life.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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I'm at 230 K Miles.. same Plugs.. Same Engine O2 Sensors.. so it can be done..

I was wanting the Plugs checked to see if you are starting to get an Oil or Coolant Burning Issue..

Should not have to replace the Coil packs.. have had some failures on replacement coil packs.. I'm Sticking with Toyota when I have to replace my packs..

Your trims will be whack after a Missfire problem. so Unless you read them before, the numbers are no good now..

Still like to see compression numbers..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I'm at 230 K Miles.. same Plugs.. Same Engine O2 Sensors.. so it can be done..

I was wanting the Plugs checked to see if you are starting to get an Oil or Coolant Burning Issue..

Should not have to replace the Coil packs.. have had some failures on replacement coil packs.. I'm Sticking with Toyota when I have to replace my packs..

Your trims will be whack after a Missfire problem. so Unless you read them before, the numbers are no good now..

Still like to see compression numbers..

Cap
I'm of your mind as far is longevity of this type of part is concerned...especially when there are no easily identifiable symptoms.

Doesn't sound like there's anything combusting in the chamber that shouldn't be, just a failed coil pack or 4

I'm replacing with YEC which are OEM for this.

ST trims were whack but LT were the same - I guess the question there become what is the ECU's definition of long term.

I'll get the compression #s tomorrow in all likelihood.
 
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