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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If anyone knows of a post on this please point me in the right direction, searched without success to find a similar thread.

Which wheels are safe for the track? I am considering a few different options.

Main question is are XXR wheels safe for track duty? I know they are cheaper made wheels and will probably break easily if a curb, steel plate, etc are hit but will they work? Anyone do a hub conversion for better wheel selection? I would really prefer to do a 5x100 or 5x114.3 for some 17x9-10 949racing 6ULR wheels although fitment would be tight. XXR makes a few different wheels in a 17x8.25 and 17x9.25 in 4x100.

My car will be making plenty of power and torque to make the 15x8-10 wheels obsolete (at least since I don't want to spend 250+ per tire for straight hoosiers) Someone with a time attack integra also said they spun out with 15" wheels more frequently.

What I was thinking of doing is either 15x7 / 16x8 RPF1 since I already have two 15x7 in R888 or Hankook Z214 in a 225-45-15 front 255-50-16 rear

Or upgrade to a 17" wheel but finding a quality wheel wider than a 17x7 in 4x100 has been difficult for me unless it is pretty much custom or from japan.
 

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For track, stay away from XXR/Sportmax and even Rotas. I have seen many instances of XXR/Sportmax/Rota wheels literally break apart.

Matter of fact, I saw some XXR barrels torn apart from the hub on the freeway, while driving last week.

I recommend using the tried and proven 6UL wheels for track duty.
 

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Those tires are not very good specially if used. I would suggest you sell all those wheels/tires wheels and pick up a set of 15x9 UL or TRmotorsports wheels and just run 225/45s on all 4 corners.

Running 17s on 1zz spyder with 5-speed really makes the car slow. You need to maximize acceleration in the higher gears because on the track most of the time you will be using 3rd and 4th gear. You rarely go into second and never into 1st. The 5-speed does not really have short gearing.

I watched Cosmin walk away from me down the straight when he was running 225/45/15 and I was running 235/40/17s.

I suggest not to take advice from integra drivers that say they spun out frequently.:lol:

Find the best tires first then fine wheels that fit that.

How much power do you have?
 

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By track I'm assuming you mean a road course or auto x. From my experience, a huge advantage of 15" wheels with 225s is the cost of the tires. They are cheap in comparison to low profile 17" and as you mentioned there are a number of 15 x 8 and 15 x 9 options out there without the need of doing a hub conversion.

Most importantly, what is your previous driving history and what are your goals?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
First thanks for making sure I don't buy those wheels, what I was expecting to hear but glad I heard it again.

Then from what I know most people just run the 225 square setup, which is actually on the car right now and I like, but people are telling me I will need to run much larger rear tires with the new engine / power.

What are some people with real power using? What are you running on your turbo 2zz Silversprint? Most of the 17 tires have the correct width of 245-275 with the best pricing, more choices and I can always get fender flares.

The build is a k24 swap (specs below obviously), not really nearing completion soon so I will see what happens with the 225-45-15 setup. Currently just trying to get possible ideas for now, thanks again for all the input, it is greatly appreciated.

No real experience, just going to try and have fun, not trying to be competitive just safe.

Oh and the Integra holds the Global Time Attack buttonwillow limited FF time

Engine Specs
322HP 230 TQ on 91 Octane
K24 with K20 head
CP oversize pistons 12.5 X Forged
Crower rods
ACL race bearing
Balanced blue print bottom end
ARP head studs
K20a2 type s head port and polished by Portflow
Skunk 2 valves
Skunk 2valve springs
Skunk 2 retainers
Skunk 2 stage 3 cams
Skunk 2 intake manifold with 74mm throttle body
DTR header
Skunk 2 76mm exhaust
Skunk 2 fuel rail
RC 750cc injectors
Sportcar Motion custom intake
Koyo full size-racing radiator with pusher fans
SCM custom radiator hoses
04 Type S transmission with 5.06 FD Quaife LSD
 

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First thanks for making sure I don't buy those wheels, what I was expecting to hear but glad I heard it again.

Then from what I know most people just run the 225 square setup, which is actually on the car right now and I like, but people are telling me I will need to run much larger rear tires with the new engine / power.

What are some people with real power using? What are you running on your turbo 2zz Silversprint? Most of the 17 tires have the correct width of 245-275 with the best pricing, more choices and I can always get fender flares.

The build is a k24 swap (specs below obviously), not really nearing completion soon so I will see what happens with the 225-45-15 setup. Currently just trying to get possible ideas for now, thanks again for all the input, it is greatly appreciated.

No real experience, just going to try and have fun, not trying to be competitive just safe.

Oh and the Integra holds the Global Time Attack buttonwillow limited FF time

Engine Specs
322HP 230 TQ on 91 Octane
K24 with K20 head
CP oversize pistons 12.5 X Forged
Crower rods
ACL race bearing
Balanced blue print bottom end
ARP head studs
K20a2 type s head port and polished by Portflow
Skunk 2 valves
Skunk 2valve springs
Skunk 2 retainers
Skunk 2 stage 3 cams
Skunk 2 intake manifold with 74mm throttle body
DTR header
Skunk 2 76mm exhaust
Skunk 2 fuel rail
RC 750cc injectors
Sportcar Motion custom intake
Koyo full size-racing radiator with pusher fans
SCM custom radiator hoses
04 Type S transmission with 5.06 FD Quaife LSD
You have an intergra so I really have no experience with that car. Kraftwerks integra with 400+hp runs 245/40/17 continental slicks. Fitment of larger tires is an issue.

Tire experiences here do not translate to that car.

If you want some first hand knowledge then post your question on Trackhq.com or contact Sportcar Motion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You have an intergra so I really have no experience with that car. Kraftwerks integra with 400+hp runs 245/40/17 continental slicks. Fitment of larger tires is an issue.

Tire experiences here do not translate to that car.

If you want some first hand knowledge then post your question on Trackhq.com or contact Sportcar Motion.
Wait what? No that engine is going into the MR2 as a k swap (obviously intake manifold and header will be different but internals the same), I was just saying because you said not to get advice from someone who spins their Integra, I heard that they had less spin outs after they went to the 17" wheels from the owner of the Integra. They run 255 front on 17x9 and skinnier tire on the rear.
 

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If you must run 17's, I would look at 5zigen and Enkei off the top of my head. I'm pretty sure they come in the size you're looking for.

I would personally stick with 15's with 225's especially if you are not being competitive with little experience. Saves money and will make your life easier. There's a time and place for 17's but find out if the 15's pose a problem before you start throwing 17's on there. Even the price of a 275/35/15 Hoosier will be around the same price as 17in tire.
 

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Don't be worried about spins. If you track the spyder you will spins, specially if you first start to track the car. Most spins are because the driver made a mistake and not because of tires. Most spins are harmless and how you learn. You just have to slowly learn the limits of the car.

If you are just having fun there is no reason to spend $1000 on a set of wheels avoid spins.

Use the wheels you have do a couple of track days then decide what needs to be done to the car. A spyder with honda swap that has never been tracked there are lots of things you may have to fix after a shake down.

A 225 square setup is fine even on a 300hp car.
 

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i am going to recommend 15x8 or 15x9 square setup.
The difference is in our car the back tires are pushing the weight, rather in the integra it is pulling the weight of the car. The transfer of the power from the car to the ground is completly different.

Having larger wheels takes more power to get rolling. Larger wheels decrease accelleration but increase top speed. Smaller wheels require less power(why you see 13-15 inch wheels on lower powered cars vs the larger counterpart, as well as the gearing).

15-16 inch wheels is the largest i would go. just get a pair of stick tires and you won't have any trouble. Remember, the power is controlled by you. Less wheel spin=less throttle. More power=more throttle.
you control it.
 

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wait a second... drew did you take your car to sportcarmotion? i saw a picture they posted on facebook of a white MRS going in to get k-swap mounts 0_0 damn your car is gonna be amazing :cool:
 

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Wait what? No that engine is going into the MR2 as a k swap (obviously intake manifold and header will be different but internals the same), I was just saying because you said not to get advice from someone who spins their Integra, I heard that they had less spin outs after they went to the 17" wheels from the owner of the Integra. They run 255 front on 17x9 and skinnier tire on the rear.
Dude, you know when you talk with someone who knows little about something you know a lot about, and somethings they say reveal it, but in a way that isn't easy to put a finger on? You are being that guy right now.

1.) you can drive around a car that is prone to spinning if you are skilled, but it will be slower than fixing the setup.
2.) you can fix a setup to get the cornering bias you want without changing the tires at all. Someone with a FWD that spins out has a TON of choices other than changing tires to prevent the car from spinning as easily (not that it is the best choice by default, but it is not a situation where the tires HAD to change to fix the car because it got more power).
3.) you can setup the car for any tire choice and have it handle well to the limits of the tire's grip in the various directions.
4.) Compound first, then size. I would be faster in your car on 185 R6's than on 245 M&S all seasons, pretty much regardless of diameter.
5.) This is crap --> "I need bigger tires for more power. for 140 hp, I need 205s, for 250 hp I need 245s and for 350 hp I need 275's" The weight penalty of the bigger tire is pretty much always outweighed by the more grip if the gearing is good and the compound is as good or better in the wider size. Somebody who didn't try the wider same diameter tire until after they got more power wouldn't know that. Gearing becomes relatively less important than getting more rubber as power increases, but it is still compound first!
6.) most people who say the heavier wheels were a lot slower down the straight really changed two things at once. Usually the other thing was gearing. compound is a big deal compared to gearing and width. Gearing and width are both big deals compared to weight.
7.) don't take mid engined car setup advice from people who proclaim to be experts at setting up FWD cars. Especially not because it happens to have the same engine as their car.
 

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i am going to recommend 15x8 or 15x9 square setup.
Not a bad recommendation, IMO.

Having larger wheels takes more power to get rolling. Larger wheels decrease accelleration but increase top speed. Smaller wheels require less power(why you see 13-15 inch wheels on lower powered cars vs the larger counterpart, as well as the gearing).

15-16 inch wheels is the largest i would go. just get a pair of stick tires and you won't have any trouble. Remember, the power is controlled by you. Less wheel spin=less throttle. More power=more throttle.
you control it.
No. you can buy a 15" tire that has a 25" rolling diameter, or a 16" tire that has a 23" rolling diameter. In slicks, you can buy 13's with 23" rolling diameter, and 15's with a 20.5" rolling diameter. It is the rolling diameter, not the wheel size that makes the difference. Pick the tire first, and buy the wheel it fits on.
 

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Not a bad recommendation, IMO.



No. you can buy a 15" tire that has a 25" rolling diameter, or a 16" tire that has a 23" rolling diameter. In slicks, you can buy 13's with 23" rolling diameter, and 15's with a 20.5" rolling diameter. It is the rolling diameter, not the wheel size that makes the difference. Pick the tire first, and buy the wheel it fits on.
Very true! i didn't think about that when i typed it up.
225/55/15 vs 225/40/16 will have similar diameters(not exact by anymeans)
A 15 inch wheel will be 381mm + a 55 mm tall tire wall will make the whole setup 436mm tall or 17.1 inches tall and some change; a 16 inch wheel will be 406mm + 40mm for the sidewall for a total of 446mm or 17.5 inches tall
 

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Very true! i didn't think about that when i typed it up.
225/55/15 vs 225/40/16 will have similar diameters(not exact by anymeans)
A 15 inch wheel will be 381mm + a 55 mm tall tire wall will make the whole setup 436mm tall or 17.1 inches tall and some change; a 16 inch wheel will be 406mm + 40mm for the sidewall for a total of 446mm or 17.5 inches tall
Not sure where you are getting calculations from. I would check here for hoosier rolling diameter sizes. 225/45R15 is 22.9 inches rolling diameter, and 205/45R16 would be 22.8 inches rolling diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yeah sorry for the confusion, really appreciate all the advice, just gotta get out there and see what happens! Hopefully no big issues arise either.

Ya car is at Sportcar motion.

Not sure where you are getting calculations from. I would check here for hoosier rolling diameter sizes. 225/45R15 is 22.9 inches rolling diameter, and 205/45R16 would be 22.8 inches rolling diameter.
I think he is talking about stretch since u can put a 225 tire onto like a 9-10 inch wheel.
 

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I have 225 on a 15x9 inch 6UL. Also have 245/4017 on a 17x9. Both fit. Also have a 195 on a 15x8 wheel. So far the 195s have the most grip. Still trying the 17x9 with different 245 tire to see if it works better, otherwise I'll be back to the 195 setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I have 225 on a 15x9 inch 6UL. Also have 245/4017 on a 17x9. Both fit. Also have a 195 on a 15x8 wheel. So far the 195s have the most grip. Still trying the 17x9 with different 245 tire to see if it works better, otherwise I'll be back to the 195 setup.
I would have to agree with the above statements, maybe it isn't the grip that you are losing on but the acceleration, 17" wheel is a lot to be pushing, especially if you are stock. Even with my torquey s/c setup it was very hard to out drive my 225-45-15 R1Rs, 17" would probably make it feel slow.
 

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Very true! i didn't think about that when i typed it up.
225/55/15 vs 225/40/16 will have similar diameters(not exact by anymeans)
A 15 inch wheel will be 381mm + a 55 mm tall tire wall will make the whole setup 436mm tall or 17.1 inches tall and some change; a 16 inch wheel will be 406mm + 40mm for the sidewall for a total of 446mm or 17.5 inches tall
use this

http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp
 

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I would have to agree with the above statements, maybe it isn't the grip that you are losing on but the acceleration, 17" wheel is a lot to be pushing, especially if you are stock. Even with my torquey s/c setup it was very hard to out drive my 225-45-15 R1Rs, 17" would probably make it feel slow.
Nope it is not acceleration, at least that is what the data says. It is too much grip at the rear and not enough grip at the front, so always waiting on front to turn relative to the rear and it causes the front to push. It is also a difference in tire compound, temperature and surface. Bigger rear wheel setup at local event where I can get heat in the tires is several seconds faster than the Toyo setup.
 
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