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I can send you the tap fixture I made for a 1ZZ to 1ZZ Swap.. if I ever get it back into this Hemisphere..

Cap
 

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One, often mentioned, remedy for excessive oil burning is to acquire a new short block from Toyota. According to this Wikipedia article, the Spyder engine is equipped with light-weight cast connecting rods, while other incarnations (mundane Toyota models) use forged powdered-metal connecting rods.

One might assume that the cast rods are prefferable to the powdered-metal forgings because one expects the Spyder engine to be subjected to more vigorous use.

I asked the local Toyota dealership's parts man to look up the part number for a 1zz short block. He found only one number. There was no distinction between the Spyder and mundane applications. In all fairness, he may have only looked for Spyder short blocks.

My question is:
If I order a short block from Toyota, what assurance do I have that it has cast rods (and the extra tapped holes needed for the Spyder).
When I was deciding what to do with mine I researched extensively, all of the MR2-S model years default to the same part number. it's posted here somewhere, maybe in my "light mods" thread.
 

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I have heard this talked about years ago as I have been through the tough one shifting the block TWICE but under the warrenty + all cats realy hated the car for while back then

Has driven now with turbo for 90.000 km's no problem ;-) Though I expect the engine to start to wear at any point by now and I expect I will try to find a very low milage 1zz from one of the othe yotas

N
 

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I saw somewhere a visual and descriptive comparison between the pistons, rings, and connecting rods of the 1zz and something; I just don't remember if it was early 1zz vs late 1zz or 1zz vs 2zz, but it was substantial.

Now, I can't find the page.

After driving the spyder for six months, my only complaints are the luggage space (can fix with rack), cruise control (can fix with aftermarket addition) and the damn oil usage (a big worry).

Until the MR2, all my cars were European (I love small cars), but Toyota never understood people like me, as they tend to treat the MR2 (and their owners) like Corollas (economy). Of course, I'd never see 320k miles on an original MG, FIAT, or Alfa engine, so I overlooked this flaw. Now I feel as if I'm driving an Alfa engine (it was all aluminum too....Alfa suggested re-tightening head bolts every 1000 miles). Harder to overlook now!

If I can find assurance the 1zz short block truly fixes the oil consumption issue, I'll buy one and put it in storage and wear the current block out, then have my current head rebuilt and mounted on the new short block....maybe I can get 300k between the two. Otherwise, I'll look into a different engine, or a different car. I'm too old to spend a lot of time working on my car and definitely do not want to be sitting dead on the side of the road (the Mk1 MR2 spoiled me...grin).

PS: I still think Toyota should offer some assistance in fixing this issue on the spyder, as it is the only car they produce which will be around 30 years from now, reminding everyone of Toyota quality (or lack thereof).

PS2: Of course, what a win it would be if we all started dropping Ford or GM engines into the spyder....lol.
 

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Ok, I'm looking again, and found a Beams 3sge swap into a spyder.....looks like they had to enlarge the engine bay a bit, but it sure looks pretty.



Sorry, I just miss my cast iron block, and the resulting durability.
 

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According to a parts query, all of them use the same connecting rods:

04/2002-05/2007 TOYOTA COROLLA ZZE130

08/1997-12/2001 TOYOTA COROLLA ZZE110

01/2002-12/2007 TOYOTA COROLLA, MATRIX ZZE13

12/1999-12/2004 TOYOTA MR2 ZZW30

08/1999-06/2005 TOYOTA CELICA ZZT23


I'd have a hard time believing they would produce a different set of rods for such a low production number engine, when it's a parts-bin car in every other sense.
 

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In relation to that link and the 1zz-FE and 1zz-FED engine differences, the bottom ends are the most similar part. Perhaps the pistons , rings and rods are different, but the larger difference is the head, head design, and valves.

To answer the original question of the holes, I find it unlikely that the engine from YOTA will have the holes drilled and tapped due to the low numbers of our cars VS the other 1zz bearing vehicles.

The oil burning issue is largely due to the piston rings and cylinder walls and pitting, scoring, blah blah blah... Oil getting into the combustion chamber somehow; Oil leaking from one of the gaskets or tensioner.

A new short block will resolve the issues of burning oil, but not leaking oil.. Next, ensure the oil is changed shortly after the swap to prevent contaminents/matal particals, shavings, etc from coming into the combustion chamber and scoring the walls, etc.. and rid of the precats as should be done..

Lunch time for me so i'm out!
 

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Spyder short block assembly: 11400-22061 (should be the only active part number)

1ZZ Corolla Short Block -- several active part #s, e.g. 11400-0D050, 11400-22032, 11400-22090 depending on year and other factors.

Conrods:
Corolla (several, e.g. 13201-09120, 13201-09122, 13201-29036 and 13201-29038)

Spyder: only 13201-29038

There's no mystery. Looks like you could get a corolla engine with the same conrods as a Spyder engine. Obviously they are a substitutable part (same crank, same pistons).

If I'm not mistaken, all of the above are sintered iron rods, the differences are just in shape & thickness.
 

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Boy do I not miss my Alfa's. The 2L usually required a head gasket at the 30k service. Spica FI let gas in the oil often. Even though the engine leaked oil all over the bottom of the car on a quiet night you could hear it rust. Pretty but good riddance.
 

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Ok, I'm looking again, and found a Beams 3sge swap into a spyder.....looks like they had to enlarge the engine bay a bit, but it sure looks pretty.



Sorry, I just miss my cast iron block, and the resulting durability.
It does look pretty, but geez....
 

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I thought the difference was the D designation 1ZZ-FE vs 1ZZ-FED the latter being an updated version of the 1zz with the changes noted in the wikipedia article. I had my short block replaced by the dealer and as I recall new blocks are all the "D" type. I also recall them being incredibly unreasonably expensive, like 2zz swap expensive, not sure what you're plans are but I personally wouldn't have spent my own money on the job, but the dealership and Toyota split the bill so I didn't complain.

-Spargo
 
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