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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
hood latch 002.jpg hood latch 003.jpg hood latch 004.jpg

A few months ago when I bought my 2001 Spyder, the thing that really bugged me was the fact that my hood latch lever was bent and never did work right. I usually had to resort to sticking a bent coat hanger thru the rear grille and popping it open by snagging the cable.
Then I chanced upon a thread where somebody had cut the cable short and had affixed a knob to the end of the cable - accessed thru the grille.
I proceeded to do the same: I cut thru the cable and sheathing with a Dremel tool cutting disc, removed the sheathing and then took a 14" length of fuel line tubing - which I tywrapped to the upper cross member. The other end was curved 90 degrees toward the RH end of the grille.
I threaded the shortened cable thru the tubing and out the grille end.
Then I bent the cable around a key ring I found lying around and swaged it closed with an electrical terminal ferrule. The 1" dia. ring is too large to fit thru the grille opening & stays on the outside of the grille.
It might not be the most secure hood release, but actuating the latch directly has a very satisfying feel to it and it didn't cost a penny to do. Plus, you don't have to open your door to access the latch lever.
I tried to attach pics, but failed to get them in. Sorry!
 

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A few months ago when I bought my 2001 Spyder, the thing that really bugged me was the fact that my hood latch lever was bent and never did work right. I usually had to resort to sticking a bent coat hanger thru the rear grille and popping it open by snagging the cable.
Then I chanced upon a thread where somebody had cut the cable short and had affixed a knob to the end of the cable - accessed thru the grille.
I proceeded to do the same: I cut thru the cable and sheathing with a Dremel tool cutting disc, removed the sheathing and then took a 14" length of fuel line tubing - which I tywrapped to the upper cross member. The other end was curved 90 degrees toward the RH end of the grille.
I threaded the shortened cable thru the tubing and out the grille end.
Then I bent the cable around a key ring I found lying around and swaged it closed with an electrical terminal ferrule. The 1" dia. ring is too large to fit thru the grille opening & stays on the outside of the grille.
It might not be the most secure hood release, but actuating the latch directly has a very satisfying feel to it and it didn't cost a penny to do. Plus, you don't have to open your door to access the latch lever.
I tried to attach pics, but failed to get them in. Sorry!
Very nice fix. I'd like to see photos when you can. This might even enhance security, if it's not too noticeable.
 

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I am interested...:pOP:
 

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I need a new battery...where do you live...

Sorry, I couldn't resist. Instead of advertising for some one to steal your battery, get a small ball, 1-1.5" in diameter. After lifting the release lever, place the ball under the lever. This should allow you to go and lift the hood. Yes, you do have to go back and remove the ball for the hood to re-latch after you are done doing whatever, but, imo, it sure beats having anything that even remotely looks like a method of opening the hood from outside the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Galo,
Your 'ball' solution wouldn't have worked in my situation. The engine portion of the cable in my 2001 Spyder was completely melted solid inside the sheathing. It was even tough to peel the sheathing away from the cable which seemed to be encased in plastic. I'm still sticking with my 'direct = thru the grille fix' and you can argue with my Smith & Wesson if you want to swipe my battery.

Johnzo
 

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Galo,
Your 'ball' solution wouldn't have worked in my situation. The engine portion of the cable in my 2001 Spyder was completely melted solid inside the sheathing. It was even tough to peel the sheathing away from the cable which seemed to be encased in plastic. I'm still sticking with my 'direct = thru the grille fix' and you can argue with my Smith & Wesson if you want to swipe my battery.

Johnzo
BOLD; Not quite the smartest thing to post online...I also seriously doubt you're around your car 24hrs a day.

Now, sorry my suggestion won't work for you. I don't remember reading in the op about the melting in the sheathing. You would be better off repairing the problem then providing an easy way for some one with "bad" intentions to get under the hood. Maybe just keep a "pulling device" handy to use, when you need to get under the hood, that you keep inside the car.

Good luck.
 

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BOLD; Not quite the smartest thing to post online...I also seriously doubt you're around your car 24hrs a day.

Now, sorry my suggestion won't work for you. I don't remember reading in the op about the melting in the sheathing. You would be better off repairing the problem then providing an easy way for some one with "bad" intentions to get under the hood. Maybe just keep a "pulling device" handy to use, when you need to get under the hood, that you keep inside the car.

Good luck.
I think someone that wants to get in the engine bay will naturally look inside the car for a latch. If the "outside ring" were disguised as an emblem/badge it might fool them.
 

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Do people really steal Spyder batteries? They're too small to work in most cars.


Back on the engine latch subject - I got the sticky engine latch cable "resolved" on my daughter's spyder this weekend. The handle was crazy hard to pull. I was worried I'd bend the interior handle. I tried forcing lube into the cable with one of those clamp-on-the-end things. Practically no change. The cable would pull freely when disconnected and no resistance at the latch. But would get very sticky with moderate resistance. (I had a helper provide resistance while I pulled the interior lever.)

So I removed the HEAVY latch spring in the latch, and replaced with a much lighter spring. Now the handle pulls easily, but the engine lid does not pop up. It just comes unlatched and lies there until you lift it open using the vent slots. Which will work fine. Apparently that killer spring's primary purpose was to pop the lid open (and kill the cable and interior handle in the process). Thanks for the light-spring idea goes to somebody on the forum - can't recall where I read it.

Factory latch springs:


"Light" spring(s). I did one car with a single lighter spring, and this one with whatever was left in my toolbox (2 springs):
 

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Y-a-h, did you look at the pic in the op? The ring is visible, hanging out from the upper rear grill.

A Spyder battery will start any car, and if one wants to steal a battery bad enough... I had a small Odyssey battery in my first Spyder(52 wks a year for 2+ years) I ran in CSP, so, in this case, size doesn't matter.

Also, this isn't just a battery thing. What if someone(exgf-bf/wife/?) wanted to ef with the car by, oh, pouring sugar, dirt, gas, whatever into the oil fill location, screwing-up the engine.

Anyway, I hope the op's "fix" works well for him.
 

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So I removed the HEAVY latch spring in the latch, and replaced with a much lighter spring. Now the handle pulls easily, but the engine lid does not pop up. It just comes unlatched and lies there until you lift it open using the vent slots. Which will work fine. Apparently that killer spring's primary purpose was to pop the lid open (and kill the cable and interior handle in the process). Thanks for the light-spring idea goes to somebody on the forum - can't recall where I read it.
Probably me. Yes I did this this way.
 

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Ditto for the lighter spring. I went so far as to weld plates on my handle to keep it from bending. Still bent. Put in a lighter spring from a hardware store and it opens like a dream. I doubt the cable will ever break like this. Also i think there is a revision on the oem part that has a slightly lighter spring but i dont think they went light enough.
 

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Time for me to do this "spring" mod. Mine went about 1 1/2 months ago after being stiff ever since I got it. I bent the hell out of my handle and then had to reach up under the bumper to open it. I now have a handle under the bumper to open it but if the spring replacement fixes the problem then I will be much happier.


By the way, if I wanted to steal Spyder batteries then I could open just about any engine lid in about 15 seconds or less now that I know how to do it.
 

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Do people really steal Spyder batteries? They're too small to work in most cars.


Back on the engine latch subject - I got the sticky engine latch cable "resolved" on my daughter's spyder this weekend. The handle was crazy hard to pull. I was worried I'd bend the interior handle. I tried forcing lube into the cable with one of those clamp-on-the-end things. Practically no change. The cable would pull freely when disconnected and no resistance at the latch. But would get very sticky with moderate resistance. (I had a helper provide resistance while I pulled the interior lever.)

So I removed the HEAVY latch spring in the latch, and replaced with a much lighter spring. Now the handle pulls easily, but the engine lid does not pop up. It just comes unlatched and lies there until you lift it open using the vent slots. Which will work fine. Apparently that killer spring's primary purpose was to pop the lid open (and kill the cable and interior handle in the process). Thanks for the light-spring idea goes to somebody on the forum - can't recall where I read it.

Factory latch springs:


"Light" spring(s). I did one car with a single lighter spring, and this one with whatever was left in my toolbox (2 springs):
Probably me. Yes I did this this way.
Well, Thank You to both of you. I pulled out the old spring, went to Ace Hardware and picked up a spring with about half the tension, installed it and presto!. It works great. Cost me a whole $1.59.
 

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Thank you to the member(s) who discovered; are endorsing; and who are sharing their experiences with this "LIGHTER spring" mod. Also, thanks for sharing pictures, they are particularly helpful.

Plans are to definitely pursue this mod for my engine hood - it too requires an unnecessary amount of effort to release and I strongly believe it is on account of the heavy spring.

I also have this same problem in the front (latch requiring considerable effort to release) and was just wondering whether the latch assembly is similar in construction and would benefit from this same mod. Since the assembly is not easily visible without removing the plastic protective cover in the frunk and/or the bumper skin, does anyone know? Or, has anyone changed to a lighter spring in the front hood with success?
 

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Hello all,
I had the same problem and I used a similar solution.
If anyone was interested, I wrote a little DIY guide.

automonamour.it

Bye from Piacenza - ITALY


75368
 
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