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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all. I have an issue with my 2003 smt. It's kind of hard to explain. When putting the car in reverse the clutch seems to engage immediately. With my foot on the brake the car stalls.
Moving forward the gears seems to grind when I upshift but downshift seems fine Although if I baby it I can drive it. Slowing at a stop sign I have to put the car in neutral to keep it running. But when I got home it did idle in gear.
A few weeks ago I put another post on here concerning the shifter. Seems rodents got into the shifter area and chewed a couple wires causing a short. The shop was able to repair that damage. I know it is probably related to this but you never know. I cannot discount it may be a new issue. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks cyclehead looking to get a copy of it. I have a windows 10 64 bit machine. Confused if techstream supports 64 bit. And looks like many suspicious looking copies of it.
 

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Sounds like the clutch is dragging. That could be a controls problem, a hydraulic problem, or simply a mechanical problem with the clutch itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well I got it back to the shop that fixed it last time. Wife was complaining it was blocking the driveway. Seems like the clutch is locking up immediately no smooth engagement.
 

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Maybe the rodents built a nest somewhere between the air scoop and the air box throwing off the load calculations. Or maybe they chewed some wires at the tranny sensor or clutch sensor or the two throttle body sensors. Techstream should give a better idea.
What you need is a 64 bit cable. The 32 bit cable won’t work.
Do you have a check engine light?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No check engine light. Was running great for 3 weeks. Backed out of a parking space at a store and it happened. Anyone have a good link where I can get the software and cable. I see alot of funky looking sires for it out there.
 

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See if you’re leaking any fluid on the clutch stroke sensor and check the the wires going to the transmission sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all. Got a old win 7 computer I don't worry about. I will keep this updated as I know more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I know it has been a while. But it looks like the car may be kaput. My mechanic replaced the stroke sensor. Not it reads it's in forth gear all the time. He brought in a diagnostic guy to try and get the trans to relearn with no luck. He suggested there may be a hydraulic issue and can source a used trans for $2500.00. At this point I am ready to cut my losses and move on. Unless someone has a better idea. Now looking to get what I can for the car. Not sure if there is someone else that can look at it.
 

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I had a car indicating 4th after a shift stroke sensor replacement where a “parts exchange relearn” through Techstream fixed it.
The best thing to do from the very start is pull codes via Techstream, otherwise troubleshooting is much more difficult.
Questions unanswered, I’d be shooting in the dark but you might try the “parts exchange”. Odds are your mechanic doesn’t know how to work on the SMT, especially, since he suggested a $2500 transmission with a vague reason of a hydraulic issue. This is likely to get expensive.
The best way to fix the SMT is to learn as much as you can then dive in and fix it yourself.
 

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I’d guess the transmission is fine. Hopefully the mechanic meant to say - “$2500 for a new GSA”. ! I’d spend more time working with techstream. The factory manual suggests trying the relearn (parts replacement) routine 2-3 times. If it fails, it should be generating some error codes that will help guess at the problem.
 

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Find out which position sensor the mechanic changed out. If it was the shift stroke position sensor, then it’s possible it was installed incorrectly and that would cause the dash indicator to show 4th gear. Because the trans selector shaft naturally sits in the neutral position, when the sensor swing arm slips out of the actuator groove, it will spring all the way to one side which will indicate 4th gear even though it’s in neutral since they share the same select coordinate. But as I said earlier, it might just need a relearn. It probably won’t take a relearn if that sensor was installed incorrectly and could possibly damage it or something else during the process. To check whether the sensor is in correctly, put a multimeter on the sensor terminals and check that the resistance changes when manually moving the trans selector between 3rd and 4th gears. If the resistance doesn’t change and it won’t manually go into 4th gear, then that’s a clear indicator that it’s in wrong.
 

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If the old sensor was badly out of spec, it is likely that relearns have been done with the defective part before the system collapsed entirely. That could explain why the system is so far out of calibration when a good part is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well he told me he had swapped the clutch and position sensor to troubleshoot. I asked him to replace both but apparently he could only get one. It was odd, made a run to Home Depot it was fine when I got out it was immediately bad. Did not go bad as I was driving . At the time he said he was 100% sure that was it. Right now we have a big snow coming into NJ I am going to wait to see what that does. Still on the fence about towing it home VS to a trans shop .Even if I get it home I cannot work on it until the weather warms up. Guess I deserve at as I did not drive the car to often.This guy is mostly a collision shop. I got some decisions to make.
 

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I’d be very hesitant to take it to any shop. Unless they have specific experience and knowledge of the SMT system. I’d want to try running techstream relearn a few times, using your own laptop, while it sits in the current shop. Disconnect the battery overnight and charge it. Then next day get everything in neutral and run the relearn - a few times if necessary. If it doesn’t complete the process, it should generate error codes (which you must read using techstream). Then you’ll have a better idea what is needed.
 

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I’d be very hesitant to take it to any shop. Unless they have specific experience and knowledge of the SMT system. I’d want to try running techstream relearn a few times, using your own laptop, while it sits in the current shop. Disconnect the battery overnight and charge it. Then next day get everything in neutral and run the relearn - a few times if necessary. If it doesn’t complete the process, it should generate error codes (which you must read using techstream). Then you’ll have a better idea what is needed.
Sounds like a good place to start.
 

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It’s a little confusing about what the mechanic did. Did he suspect the clutch stroke position sensor (which is the first place I would have gone to) then swapped that out with the shift stroke position sensor? Or did he replace the csps with another used one?
The three main items to look at are the csps, trans input speed sensor and wiring, and the clutch solenoid and wiring for the initial symptoms you were having. Additionally, it could be a pressure issue. If you would describe the condition as intermittent, then I would look at the clutch solenoid.
Edit: While you’re under the car, check out all the wiring for rodent damage, especially the trans input speed sensor.
 
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