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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was curious to see who is using what type of fluid in their systems and see what the percentages are for Toyota stuff, Dot3, Dot4, Ravenol (beware of this stuff), still running what it came with, something else, etc.
Disclaimer: I’m not suggesting anyone use anything in particular except the Toyota SMT fluid 08886-02206 even though I use the Dot3 in my vehicles.
Another reason for asking this question is to see how many interested people are out there. It seems not many.
 

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I was curious to see who is using what type of fluid in their systems and see what the percentages are for Toyota stuff, Dot3, Dot4, Ravenol (beware of this stuff), still running what it came with, something else, etc.
Disclaimer: I’m not suggesting anyone use anything in particular except the Toyota SMT fluid 08886-02206 even though I use the Dot3 in my vehicles.
Another reason for asking this question is to see how many interested people are out there. It seems not many.
So you do use dot three for the smt hydraulic fluid? For how long and has it ran good on it ? I bought a 2002 mr2 spyder and reflashed the key finally went to crank it up and a few minutes into it. The clutch started to smoke when I shifted into gear. It would show 1st and 2nd gear when shifting but in reverse it would kick and shut off the car. I took the air flow sensor and underneath was the reservoir. I've already put a pretty penny in. And dont wanna spend 120 on this unique hydraulic fluid. And just was seeing
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I am using dot3 for several years now and so are many other people. So far there have been no issues that I know of.
Welcome to SC!
 

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Welllll, I ran Ravenol GHA-F in one car for about a week and it destroyed the entire system. So check that one off. No thanks Ravenol!

I have three SMT cars now all running DOT3 and Castor Oil mix. All with no problems. The oldest has had DOT3 for over 5 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Lol Paul.
Yeah, either swell them a bit or as Barsleak states, conditions and softens old dry shrunken orings.
 

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Actually that doesn’t make sense. I don’t see how you can find water in a system filled with hygroscopic fluid. Unless the chamber you mention is the GSA housing where the shifter link resides. That’s not internal to the system, and the worst it would do is maybe make the actuator rod ends get rusty. You’d have to drive through some very deep water, or live where there’s serious humidity and temp variations to cause noticeable condensation.
 

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Where did you find water? What chamber?
My apology, chamber is not the correct terminology, I pulled the Clutch Actuator there's brake fluid/water mixture came out from the bore. IDK how water got in the system. I pulled the long/short piston and brake fluid came out with no sign of water present.

I drove the car 6 months out of the year. it's uncomfortable to drive in the summer with top up and blind spots doesn't help either. If I have hard top, I'd drive it year round.
 

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...That’s not internal to the system, and the worst it would do is maybe make the actuator rod ends get rusty. You’d have to drive through some very deep water, or live where there’s serious humidity and temp variations to cause noticeable condensation.
That’s the thing, I don’t know how water got in the Clutch Actuator bore. I don’t drive in deep water, the car is garage queen. Summer in Florida is hot and humid but I don’t think it’s that much for condensation to collect in the reservoir. I know this sound very weird but water came out when I pull the Clutch Assembly out from the bore. Some were still inside the bore, I touched it and it’s water not brake fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Brake fluid attracts water vapor from the air. The time that it sits in system is the main factor. I replace my fluid often, maybe every year or two. It’s cheap and safe insurance. If I lived in a humid environment, I’d change it more often.
 

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The dust cover by the clutch cable can get worn or torn allowing crud to get into the external side of the clutch actuator. (I have new ones if you need). I’m not sure how anything could get into the pressure side of the actuator since it fills and dumps every time the clutch cycles.
 

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The dust cover by the clutch cable can get worn or torn allowing crud to get into the external side of the clutch actuator. (I have new ones if you need). I’m not sure how anything could get into the pressure side of the actuator since it fills and dumps every time the clutch cycles.
Thank-you, the seal kit came complete with dust cover. The original one is still in very good shape. The GSA unit is really in good shape.
 
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