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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,

Recently bought a 2001 SMT MR2 with 59k on it with a FSH, all previous MOT's and receipts for work done, after enjoying a lovely 100 miles trouble free (even managed 50 fantastic miles with the roof down in some rare sunny weather) I was stopped at a traffic light when the car decided to stall. Wonderful!

Turned the engine off, waited for 20 seconds or so and it started up again no problem, as I was pulling away the car started jerking a lot and wasn't very smooth so I pulled into a bus lane and turned the engine off again. That was the last time my car was in gear, I had to get a tow home.

The engine starts up fine no problem, The neutral light is on, but when I try and put it into either drive or reverse the neutral light flashes and the clutch will not engage. I managed to get it into reverse once, and had the same jerkiness I had when I stopped originally followed by the car stalling and hence it never got off the driveway.

Having read extensively through the forums on both MR2 OC and spyder chat the last couple of weeks I cant find the same problem anywhere else and I'm already regretting the SMT. Any advice on the simple things to check before I start changing parts would be welcome, I've checked all the fuses and the hydraulic pump seems to be working, it comes on when I open the car door at least.

I've got the techstream software and will be testing it tomorrow to see what error codes come back.

Thanks in advance for any advice or help you guys can give me. (other than don't get an SMT, its too late for that!)

Colin.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will be checking the fluid level tomorrow, The battery I was told was new and it looks pretty darn clean so I have no reason to doubt that.

Forgot to add in my original post, the SMT warning light is on but not the engine warning light.
 

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You could always try sucking out the old SMT fluid and replacing it with fresh SMT or Dot4 Brake Fluid. I have heard of this fixing wacky SMT issues. Codes will also help some of the more knowledgable point you in the right direction. I have had good luck with my SMT so I don't know much more than how to change the fluid. Good luck and hopefully it's something minor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
After having a look at the fluid today it looks low to me, however I had been sat in the car a while playing with techstream and the pump had been working and I seem to remember reading the fluid level should be checked once it has been left for a while....but feel free to correct me on this.

Am I correct in thinking the top and bottom of that little viewing window in the pic correspond to the maximum and minimum levels? If the fluid is low, how do I go about topping it up and any other input on using dot4 as a replacement, I have seen it mentioned on other forums too.

The techstream software came back with a fault code of P1857 which was has the immensely helpful description of 'clutch control system malfunction'.

I also had codes of p100 and p110 which are something to do with the air intake (I had forgotten I had disconnected a cable which attaches to the air filter so I think this should account for these codes as I didnt have the check engine light on previously).

Thanks again for your help so far.

Colin.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
it wont let me add links so the pics are at the addresses below but without the space in http.

h ttp://postimg.org/image/t65fy6tgb
h ttp://postimg.org/image/45ks6xpeb/
h ttp://postimg.org/image/fkjicw1yf/
 

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So far you are Spot on for your technique for troubleshooting..

Your code is the TCU told the Clutch to go to a position, and it did not.. could be a bad sensor ( the thing with the Arm) or coild be a bad Hyd Sol.. or Air in the System

I've never run techstream, but I understand you can move things and get a position read out.. My thoughts are to move the clutch, and see if the position holds.. or wanders..

COULD be air in the SMT Fluid.. Fill the tank and see..

Keep us posted..

Thanks..

Cap
 

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So far Dot4 has been a good replacement for SMT fluid. Get a turkey baster and suck as much of the fluid out as you can. Next refill with clean fluid. Make sure you have let the car sit and the HPU has released pressure before or you may overfill. I recommend doing this change, driving the car around, and then repeating.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will check the fluid level again on sunday before opening the driver door when I am at my parents (thats where the car is currently as it was the closest place to tow to) if its still looks low I will top it up and see how it goes before replacing anything. I bought some dot4 today ready.

Where do i suck the fluid from, the cap on the top of the fluid tank says not to remove, I assume that is as its pressure related.

Can either of you confirm if the top and bottom lines on the window of the tank correspond to the max and min level for me as they are not marked.

Also, what is a hyd sol? (hydraulic solenoid perhaps? but what does it do)

I will also have a go at trying to work the clutch with techstream on and see if I can find the live data section of the program.

thanks to you both
Colin.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
My bad! Typed the note quickly on a break. Thanks for calling me out Cap!

I fill mine to the top line in the window. You take the plastic cover off and then the cap off. No trouble with pressure.
checked the HPU today again before the pump kicked in and it was still low so i topped it up.

It still doesnt go into reverse or neutral but there seems to be two different scenarios....

scenario 1: i turn the engine on and all the warning lights are off (i got hopeful when this happened) It wont move out of neutral though, when i move into reverse or drive the neutral light doesnt even flash.

scenario 2: Same as the original problem, the smt warning light is on and when I try to shift into gear the neutral led flashes.

after starting the car numerous times these two scenarios kept happening in no particular order.

The second time I started the engine the pump was on for an extremely long time followed by a loud whistle from the back of the car, which to me sounded like it was coming from the HPU.

Any ideas, is there a relearn procedure I have to do or anything or should the car just work after i fill up the fluid?

Also I checked under the car and cant see any fluid leaking anywhere.

thanks,
Colin.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Today I siphoned out the fluid from the HPU and replaced it with new. It had not gone down from when I topped it up so I don't think there is a leak.

I tried to do a ECU relearn via techstream, the error code I had (P1857) has now gone. but now I have three new error codes, P1855, P1646 and P1647.

When I start the engine the neutral light no longer comes up and the engine then stalls shortly after.

From memory I think P1646 and P1647 are something to do with the TCU and ECU communicating with each other, no idea with the other one, anyone got any ideas about whats causing this and what I should try next.

Checked the TCU to make sure there was no sign of water damage as the drainage was blocked when we bought the car and some water got into the space behind the seats. It all looks fine to me and its the updated version of the TCU I believe.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
In a document I've found online to do with SMT diagnostics, i have found that when the engine is stopped as a fail safe the ECU will detect both P1646 and P1647.

With this in mind I would assume the problem is related to the other code P1855, the clutch stroke sensor. Is there a way to test if the sensor is faulty or is it a case of swapping it out and hoping?

As a side note would this result in the neutral LED switching off.
 

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Clutch Stroke Sensor is the same as the Shift Sensors..

Swap the sensors and try a relearn.. the problem should move to the shift..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Today I got around to switching the clutch stroke sensor with the shift stroke sensor and sure enough the error code changed from p1855(clutch stroke sensor) to p1870(shift stroke sensor) indicating the clutch stroke sensor was faulty. Looks like I've found the problem. (Thanks Cap)

However.....when I removed the clutch stroke sensor it was a bit damp and to me it seemed like the same fluid I put in the HPU reservoir. I couldn't see a leak anywhere and no other components had any fluid on them that I could see, I wiped it down and retried it only to get the same error code so I proceeded to swap the parts as originally planned to confirm the fault. What I am wondering is could the fluid on the terminals in the sensor cause a malfunction (thinking the fluid could complete a circuit between the terminals when there isn't supposed to be one) and if I clean the sensor up is there a chance it may still work. After ringing the dealer and finding out the sensor is £280 I would rather confirm for certain the one I have is ruined before paying up, especially as I've not seen any reports of faulty sensors previously.

As I said I did dry it out with paper towel but found it difficult to get into the terminals to clean.

thanks,
Colin.
 

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You did good by finding the Sensor at the dealer.. Please post the number..

Not all have had the same luck as you.. usually the Dealer can only find the number for the GSU.. and that is a LOT pricey..

My thoughts are the fluid leaks in at the Rotary Shaft joint, and contaminated the Pot inside.. it has been posted about before..

Think you have almost fixed..

Cap
 
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