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Discussion Starter #1
hi, I have been going through the posts and cant find exactly what problem I'm having so here goes. I garaged my 2001 mr2 for a few months and recently started it and took it for a spin. The battery had died so I charged it fully. I noticed the gears were fine into 1st and reverse however when trying to go up through the gears the red transmission light would come on and the gear indicator shows the next gear however it doesn't seem to engage as if the car jumped into neutral. This however improves as the car warms up and the shifting becomes more normal however the light stays illuminated. I took the car out today to check it and noticed the same thing happening however when going up through the gears there is a long delay going into 3rd and when downshifting from 4th to 3rd it skips straight to 2nd without engaging 3rd. Has anyone had this issue or any ideas as the car was perfect with no problems when it was put into the garage. Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks rob
 

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What he Said.. ^^^

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the replies. I had the battery tested and it turns out it was faulty. I put in the new battery however the problem persists. If I do a relearn on it will this resolve the problem or is there a procedure which I can go by to resolve the problem, thanks rob
 

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Good chance a relearn might fix ya if the ecu recorded goofy numbers while the battery was bad. Also a good chance you may need to do a gear oil change/clean the input speed sensor.
 

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(Plebian, correct me if I'm wrong) You'd want to do the "new component installed" relearn, not the "clutch point engagement" relearn. The first one requires techstream software. The second one is free, just follow the goofy instructions. Of course the second relearn won't hurt to try first.

Techstream software is available online for about $65.
 

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Yup, just afraid the sitting for the winter let metallic trash settle on his input sensor (still trying to figure out why an engineer would put a magnetic sensor on the bottom of the transmission...goofiness) I would do the gear oil change and clean your input speed sensor first (fresh oil never hurts) before doing the relearn, trash on the sensor would prevent it from getting good numbers from a relearn. Just to double check my theory do you have acces to an obd2 reader to pull the error codes that the SMT is throwing?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the replies. plebian, I wouldnt have access to a obd2 reader but could get a friend to carry out diagnostics. just an update, the battery was faulty and I changed it however I checked the smt fluid and judging from the level it should be at from reading through threads on this i will need to top it up so I might as well just change it. In Ireland it seems to be impossible to find the smt fluid but I was told it can be ordered.. I see some people talking about dot 4 as a substitute, is this safe to use ?? not sure of the relevance of this but the bloody abs light is constantly on too :angry::angry:
 

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you definitely need to get the codes read, with the abs light it could be the speedo screwing up, making the matching reads from the input sensor wonky©. Speedometers are a reason it's a bitch to get the SMT's dynoed, the car goes into emergency panic mode because it thinks it's sliding out of control. Get the error codes whichever you can (in the U.S. a lot of the parts stores get the codes for you for free, dunno if it's the same for ya in Ireland).

As far as using dot 4, I'm on almost 7k miles on it since I swapped it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
just an update on my smt. I got a code reader on it today and error codes related to the ABS light of which the recalibration wiped two and left one c0210 right rear sensor however no codes for the red transmission light which brings me back to the original issue. when i drive the car initially the gears jump from first to third and the car without engaging however if i take off in second gear it seems to work normally from then on up and down the gear range however the red light still remains on the dash with the ABS light. I checked the SMT fluid and it is full to the top and as many have said it is similar to dot 4 i removed some and compared the consistency of both and they seemed to be much the same. My next step is cleaning the input sensor and possibly draining the fluid, however i am not too sure where the input sensor is located. any help or info would be greatly appreciated, thanks, rob
 

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Well, if the car's telling you the right rear abs sensor is screwed, I'd replace that first before messing with parts dedicated to the SMT. That needs to be cleared so the wheels and the transmission will start communicating the right numbers together.
 

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Well, if the car's telling you the right rear abs sensor is screwed, I'd replace that first before messing with parts dedicated to the SMT. That needs to be cleared so the wheels and the transmission will start communicating the right numbers together.
I'll do the same. The SMT system wanna have everything in working order and any faulty speed sensor might be related to the SMT misbehavior.
 

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I'll do the same. The SMT system wanna have everything in working order and any faulty speed sensor might be related to the SMT misbehavior.
He had an ABS light on and a code for the right rear sensor. Doubt it's the same thing with you unless you were had an ABS light or messed up reading on the speedo.
 

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He had an ABS light on and a code for the right rear sensor. Doubt it's the same thing with you unless you were had an ABS light or messed up reading on the speedo.
I don't compare it to my SMT-problems, just think that a sensor should be fixed anyway and why not do that first? It could be SMT related in some way..
 

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SMT Gets flaky after driven for about 20 miles, then fixes itself after car sits for

To my fellow spyderchat members,

Background:
I purchased this beautiful 03 MR2S in January. 60k miles, previous owner a women who didn't race it. Had been sitting for 3 months before I purchased it (she had bought a new car).

DESCRIPTION OF FLAKINESS
If I drive for more than about 20 miles, the following SMT flakiness occurs every time. While driving away from a stop, and rowing through the gears, the transmission disengages by itself, and I can't make it go back into gear, and I've no choice but to roll to a stop (pull over to the side if I'm lucky). Two idiot lights glow: a) check engine, and b) the red, gear shaped symbol. I can get the car to behave normally again by turning it off, removing the key, and then going through the start up process again.

However, for a given trip, once the SMT flakiness has occurred, it keeps reoccurring, and for every occurrence I'm forced to roll to a stop, turn off the car, remove the key, and go through the starting up sequence again. This goes on until I get it home and park it in the driveway.

Funny thing is that after about a week (I only drive it about once a week), when I go through the start up process again, the car behaves normally. And both idiot lights are no longer lit. And it appears to behave perfectly normal, once again. That is until I've driven it again for about 20 miles. Then the exact same SMT flakiness, described above, occurs again.

This has happened to me every time I've driven it more than about 20 miles, which means that this has happened to me about 10 times over the last four months.

WHAT I'VE TRIED
Back in January, after the first occurrence, I became a spyderchat member and researched SMT issues. Although I didn't find a perfect description of my car's problem, I did learn that taking it to a Toyota dealer can be an expensive, and wasteful proposition. Also, back then since the issue had only occurred twice, and fixed itself both times, I thought maybe it would permanently fix itself over time; that maybe it was only acting strange because it had sat for several months before I purchased it. (BTW, after doing research, on this site, at that time, I purchased and installed a new battery, which doesn't seem to have mitigated the flakiness one iota).

ERROR CODES
The problem just occurred again today, and while the check engine idiot lite was still on, I brought it to a shop and obtained the computer codes. There are two codes:
"P0860" ... gearshift code
"P1646" ... computer code

Can anyone help me diagnose the problem? I hate the thought of bringing it to a dealer that may not know how to diagnose it properly.

Thanks much,
Mark








After 20 miles or so, after stopping at a red light, Usually while accelerating from a stop.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I will replace the rear wheel sensor and see how this helps. My reasoning behind draining the smt fluid and cleaning the sensor is that when I open the door and the smt motor begins to run it sounds a bit rougher than i remember it and possibly runs for longer than normal (what is the usual length for the motor to run when the driver door is opened??), it almost sounds like its blocked slightly but maybe i'm hearing things, ha. I think iI will do this and replace the sensor and please god this works...
 

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I will replace the rear wheel sensor and see how this helps. My reasoning behind draining the smt fluid and cleaning the sensor is that when I open the door and the smt motor begins to run it sounds a bit rougher than i remember it and possibly runs for longer than normal (what is the usual length for the motor to run when the driver door is opened??), it almost sounds like its blocked slightly but maybe i'm hearing things, ha. I think iI will do this and replace the sensor and please god this works...
20-30 seconds
 
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