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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
03 with 44k miles parked for 7 years.
Finally got the transmission to shift after toping off with DOT3 fluid. However now it once again stays in neutral and neutral light goes off when I shift to other gear.
Stick shift seems to work as expected, it can be moved to different gears when ignition and break are on. Befor I could hear trani trying to shift, but now it does no even try.
Pump runs and shuts off, green light comes back on if I shut the key off and turn back on, but disappears when I try to shift.
It does go into 1st once in a while and some times into reverse from 1st, but getting worst with time.
Drained all fluid out and ready to replace with new DOT3, but wondering if I can remove accumulator without making a mess, or if there can be air trapped in the system from being low.
I can hear a very soft humm from pump when ignition is on.
I am assuming the pressure is ok or pump would not shut up,but not shure if accumulator or sensors are working. Not sure how to get to what sensor ?

Any ideas ?
 

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Still thinking, with such low miles I wouldn’t expect a position sensor to fail, unless it’s soaked with brake fluid from a leaky GSA. I think I’d work on getting fresh fluid throughout the system. No need to remove the accumulator to get fresh fluid through the system. Just fill, run the pump, shift, drain, refill, repeat…a few times. For info: You can unscrew the accumulator ball if the pump has not run overnight or so. Pressure will have all bled down. Don’t worry about trapped air in the system. It will purge itself (if you haven’t disassembled the pump). It seems like there’s a fluid pressure problem where it can’t complete the gear shift as requested - then goes into shutdown due to mismatch between requested and actual gear.
 

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Sounds like there’s a fluid leak somewhere. Fluid might have gotten into the shift stroke sensor and/or clutch stroke sensor, or the pump motor. If leaks are found, that is likely to be where the problem is. You can use Techstream to check main pressure and shift pressures or you can time the pump cycles. Pump should run about 25 seconds when first opening driver’s door then every couple minutes for around 8 seconds each time.
919 basically means that the shift isn’t occurring, which you already know. So either it doesn’t like feedback from the position sensors or the pressure isn’t right for whatever reason, ie pump motor, master solenoid, pressure sensors, etc, or fluid isn’t getting where it needs to go, ie mstr solenoid to shift solenoid(s) shift solenoid to actuator. These do seem to be working to some extent though so it may just be running out of reserve pressure, ie accumulator, pump motor, pressure sensor, low fluid, pump relay, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
First time I filled reservoir it seemed to work for a while, I have drained entire fluid and will refill with clean fluid today.
I am not sure what sensor is what, but will try to get to the one on top, as it seems to be the only one accessible without removing the entire unit.
Pump seems to work OK.
Small hum may be a stuck solenoid.
Getting the software and implementing older windows program seems a bit complicated.

PS for those that do not have a turkey baster, I took a trigger hand pump from a spray bottle, added a small hose to the pickup tube, made the spray nozzle hole a bit larger and used this as a hand pump to drain the fluid. I think it was less messy and more controllable than a turkey baster, got every drop out, and yes it had turned a bit darker.
 

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You really need to fight through to get a copy of techstream. It’s the best tool to accurately chase problems. This procedure will work with windows 7,8, 10 or 11.
Techstream Installation and Download - Asela

I’d be careful with old SMT fluid. I’m convinced it is the cause of leakage problems in the system. My thoughts summarized here:

SMT Fluid discussion
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yes, I have read all your documents, as they are very informative and done with incredible amount of research and experience. I will get my young computer tec nephew to help me with the techstream download.
Will continue trying to flush with DOT3 and hope it works.
Where are you lockated ? I am in Florida and cant find any MR2 experts here.
 

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Yes, I have read all your documents, as they are very informative and done with incredible amount of research and experience. I will get my young computer tec nephew to help me with the techstream download.
Will continue trying to flush with DOT3 and hope it works.
Where are you lockated ? I am in Florida and cant find any MR2 experts here.
Look up Triz Serrano in St Petersburg. He can fix it for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Changed fluid to all DOT3 : Pump took 32 seconds to pump up the first time. Now it shifts from time to time, I can hear the transmision working, but most times the red light comes on and engine shuts off before it completes the shift.
When I shift from N to 1st and 2nd, about every 3 shifts, the pump comes on for 6 seconds.
The red light comes on most of the time, but some times I can go N to 1st, 1st to 2nd and back and forth several times, Other times I can go N to R, but usually fails coming back to N.
If key is left on, it holds pressure for quite some time before the pump turns on again for a short time.
I see what looks like 2 sensors on top of the unit, but not real easy to get to them.
Changing fluid did seem to help quite a bit.
I am tempted to put the air cleaner back and try to run it as is, maybe a little exercise will help the transmission shift faster ? I will quit for today, wile y scratch my head a bit more !
 

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Changed fluid to all DOT3 : Pump took 32 seconds to pump up the first time. Now it shifts from time to time, I can hear the transmision working, but most times the red light comes on and engine shuts off before it completes the shift.
When I shift from N to 1st and 2nd, about every 3 shifts, the pump comes on for 6 seconds.
The red light comes on most of the time, but some times I can go N to 1st, 1st to 2nd and back and forth several times, Other times I can go N to R, but usually fails coming back to N.
If key is left on, it holds pressure for quite some time before the pump turns on again for a short time.
I see what looks like 2 sensors on top of the unit, but not real easy to get to them.
Changing fluid did seem to help quite a bit.
I am tempted to put the air cleaner back and try to run it as is, maybe a little exercise will help the transmission shift faster ? I will quit for today, wile y scratch my head a bit more !
32 seconds is a little long but maybe that will change since the fluid was changed. Sitting 7 years with old water laden fluid probably caused some corrosion and there must be a leak somewhere. If anything, reservoir level should have risen from the accumulation of water. How low was it? I would probably run it like you suggested, keep shifting gears as long as it will cooperate, then change the fluid again.
The two sensors that you need to check are under the car, not on top. They are the shift and clutch sensors. They hang low on the GSA so that’s where fluid will collect. If fluid gets into them, they will become inconsistent in their values and the TCU won’t like the feedback it’s receiving and toss the red warning light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The reservoir was below the low level line, when I topped it off it started to work a bit better, then it seemed to get worst, and now that I flushed with new DOT3 it seems to work a bit better, but not good. 32 seconds was first time after complete flushing. It seems to fill faster and holds pressure for a long time, so I dont think it has a leak, but pump runs for about 6 seconds after you perform a 3 times gear shift. Holds for a long time if not used. It only runs if you open the door when the pressure is low. I got a feeling the accumulator should keep it working for more than 3 or 4 shift's of the transmision ? still wont rule out some sensor, will need to jack up car and take a look. Will this drain the reservoir ?
Makes sense water would separate and accumulate at lowest level. are these sensors immersed in fluid ?
 

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The reservoir was below the low level line, when I topped it off it started to work a bit better, then it seemed to get worst, and now that I flushed with new DOT3 it seems to work a bit better, but not good. 32 seconds was first time after complete flushing. It seems to fill faster and holds pressure for a long time, so I dont think it has a leak, but pump runs for about 6 seconds after you perform a 3 times gear shift. Holds for a long time if not used. It only runs if you open the door when the pressure is low. I got a feeling the accumulator should keep it working for more than 3 or 4 shift's of the transmision ? still wont rule out some sensor, will need to jack up car and take a look. Will this drain the reservoir ?
Makes sense water would separate and accumulate at lowest level. are these sensors immersed in fluid ?
A leak that I’m referring to is very small, occurring over a long period of time, and it won’t affect the pressure but when fluid (brake fluid and water) gets into the sensor, it contaminates the resistive strip inside it.
The pump should kick on after shifting several times and not just when opening the door. Once the accumulator becomes depleted or some predetermined level, the pump should kick on again to recharge. Even just sitting, with the car running, the system will lose pressure. Earlier testing showed this to be around 1-3 minutes before the pump runs again.
 

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I usually don’t link this anymore because the thread is kind of a mess and a bit confusing but it will give you a better idea about the “pump cycle times” and what they indicate.
 
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