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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can someone smarter than me point out where I should put the jack stands? Car being held up by hand lift. Want to use four jack stands to change oil

 

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Owner's Manual (2003) --> Section 7-1 Do-it-yourself maintenance, page 204.

 

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I usually only jack up the rear for oil changes. Lift up at the rear engine mount. Place stands between notches on seam weld. Lower car while oil is draining to get last bit of oil out.

If you want all 4 corners... Not sure if there's a center front lift point or if it's a good idea to lift at the center of the seam weld (closer to the rear because of weight difference) and do one side at a time.
 

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For once, a few people beat OldMan to the punch on answering a question here. Starting to slip there, OldMan? ;)
 

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If OP puts the jack stand (shown) on the welded fender seams, it will start bending the flange. His picture does not show the nifty plastic saddle fitting shown in the MR2 manual that would avoid crushing the welded seam. I know I don't have them either. If I'm not mistaken, there is a heavy box beam about 12 inches inboard of the cheesy fender seam. I would put jack stands on the heavy box beams, and not on the welded fender seams.
 

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...drive up on a set of boards (about 1/2" thick) ... see what looks like a horse shoe or C shaped structure
OP has his boards in place.
The horse-shoe shape is molded into the plastic belly fairing on the front at the center of the car. The floor jack will squish the horse-shoe shape when you lift (doesn't hurt anything).
T-bone, how come you don't straddle the welded seam with the plastic jack stand saddles like the owner's manual shows?
 

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When changing the oil I just use ramps.
+1, for anything to do with the spyder that doesn't require me taking of the wheels, I throw it on ramps and call it a day.

following the guides posted, if I have to raise the car and get the wheels off I have 2 of the stock jacks that come with the car. I put them on both sides and lift. Turn one a set amount of times, walk over to the other side and turn it the same amount of times. My other jack drops the car too fast and it's too difficult to control one side of the car at a time. With the jack that came in the car I can comfortably raise and lower the car on a more balanced and controlled level. my other jacks don't get the job done for multiple reasons.

Thats the only way I know how to raise the spyder just about evenly on both sides.
 

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I was nervous about putting the jack stands under the pinch welds, but after doing it 20+ times I’ve learned to trust them. It is true that they bend if you do not use the plastic caps on the jack stands, but it’s only slightly and not noticeable. If you’re fickle like me, take a pair of pliers or vise grip, wrap a towel on the jaws and carefully straighten out the pinch weld. Chances are, if you bought your Spyder used, the pinch welds are already a little bent.

 

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I was hoping I wouldn't have to see those hideous calipers again... Thanks a lot, T-Rash, I almost lost my breakfast. :(
Be nice, Joel!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The issue now is the ground effects. I don't want to lift up one end and put the jack stands at the lift points, because they will sit on an angle in the stands until I lift the front of the car.

I guess I will use my boards to the ramp and drive up the ramp trying to maker sure nothing hits the ramps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
kaustein, I do exactly what you are fearing to do with no damage at all. Lift the front first. It is lighter and any movement will have less effect due to the lesser mass. you will be fine.

at the end of the day there is no reason to use 4 JS for an oil change just jack the back high enough to get under it (2-3 clicks on my JS) and have at it.
Will my boards/ ramp scenario work?
 
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