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Installing Polk dxi6500 speakers in the door. I'm in the middle of the project now so I figured I would post this up as I work; the factory wiring of blue/teal on the passenger side and pink/purple on the driver's side - can anyone let me know which is the positive and which is negative for each side. I know its a pretty simple question :noobbananadance: Help is is much appreciated. Thanks!!
 

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It's essentially the same thing unless you are physicist/somebody worrying about echo cancellation. You'll notice newer speaker components don't even make the wires different colors and more.

An audio wave a certain strength and frequency...we don't care abut it's phase.
 

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"I may not be a physicist but I know what matters YUKYUKYUK"(Popeye)
If you can see the cones here is an easy way Disconnect the wires from the radio.Take a AAA battery and split the wires apart so you can contact them to the battery poles.Hold one wire on the negative pole and quickly touch and remove the other wire to the posive terminal while watching the cone.If it moves out then the wire you touched to the positive terminal is positive.If it moves inward then it is the negative wire.
Phase does matter .Audio is A.C
If speakers even when they are facing each other are out of phase some high frequency which travels on the leading positve low frequency wave cancel out.
It is common with sub frequency woofers if facing each other to have them on opposite phase,but otherwise always respect phase.If you have good ears you can actually tell if a single speaker is ouy of phase.
 

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If you can see the cones here is an easy way.Take a AAA battery and split the wires apart so you can contact them to the battery poles.Hold one wire on the negative pole and quickly touch and remove the other wire on the posive terminal while watching the cone.If it moves out then the wire you touched to the positive termianal is positive.If it moves inward then it is the negative wire.
That's the best way to do it.
 

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It's essentially the same thing unless you are physicist/somebody worrying about echo cancellation. You'll notice newer speaker components don't even make the wires different colors and more.

An audio wave a certain strength and frequency...we don't care abut it's phase.
Well actually it can be quiet important as an out of phase speaker can change the frequency response and mids can suffer.

However if you are not using an amp or upgraded wiring it probably does not make much difference as it's audio mush to begin with anyway.
One step forward and then two steps back.
In this regard stock speakers are the best.
 

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Thank you Dev,it also doesn't make any difference if you're listening to crappy music
It all started with free compressed music then progressed into the studio with reprocessed digital monotone mixing and it ended with crappy artists.

All of that trickled down to the cheap components made in China and sold under a company that at one time stood for quality and now is just and empty shell of it's self.

I guess it's all matching which leads me to what was my point again. Oh yeah, stock speakers rule.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
"I may not be a physicist but I know what matters YUKYUKYUK"(Popeye)
If you can see the cones here is an easy way Disconnect the wires from the radio.Take a AAA battery and split the wires apart so you can contact them to the battery poles.Hold one wire on the negative pole and quickly touch and remove the other wire to the posive terminal while watching the cone.If it moves out then the wire you touched to the positive terminal is positive.If it moves inward then it is the negative wire.
Phase does matter .Audio is A.C
If speakers even when they are facing each other are out of phase some high frequency which travels on the leading positve low frequency wave cancel out.
It is common with sub frequency woofers if facing each other to have them on opposite phase,but otherwise always respect phase.If you have good ears you can actually tell if a single speaker is ouy of phase.
Great advice, just worked like a charm. Now to put the door panels back on!! ;) Thanks guys
 

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You should be listening to your exhaust any way.Dev again is correct but here's another caveat'
Any tone other than generated by an audio generator i.e a bell, a string etc is composed of overtones one of which is a 3rd which cannot be properly reproduced with a decimal or binary type recording.Vinyl or tape rules ,SACD is the only digital system that retains the wave forms as they are.Drawback is that you cannot edit it easily ,you actually have to perform the music correctly.
 

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You should be listening to your exhaust any way.Dev again is correct but here's another caveat'
Any tone other than generated by an audio generator i.e a bell, a string etc is composed of overtones one of which is a 3rd which cannot be properly reproduced with a decimal or binary type recording.Vinyl or tape rules ,SACD is the only digital system that retains the wave forms as they are.Drawback is that you cannot edit it easily ,you actually have to perform the music correctly.
Agreed LP and tape were far better even with the hiss and occasional pop. We were sold into a lie with CDs and then free MP3s. By the time SACD came out it was already too late as you are now dealing with a tone deaf public that have been bought and sold by the industry to become obedient sheep.
Just like retiring the space shuttle and the Concord we have also retired quality music.
 

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I miss tape hiss.I never really liked dolby C and dolby B was horrible.The old 16Trk 2'' tape at 15ips was the best thing except maybe a Studer 1'' mono .There were many audiophiles I worked for that never liked stereo.Thats why McIntosh made the mono block amps.I still use a Mcintosh 240 stereo tube amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One more question, I thought everything was good and just as I got the panels ready to be reinstalled I went to test them and the speakers are hissing/crackling when the volume is turned up ( not even close to max volume). I also just changed the head unit. Brought the speakers & tweeters inside and they are working fine. Could this be due to a poor soldering job on the harness adapter? If so is it easier to just cut and resolder the entire harness?
 

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I miss tape hiss.I never really liked dolby C and dolby B was horrible.The old 16Trk 2'' tape at 15ips was the best thing except maybe a Studer 1'' mono .There were many audiophiles I worked for that never liked stereo.Thats why McIntosh made the mono block amps.I still use a Mcintosh 240 stereo tube amp.
Dolby B did kill off a great deal of fidelity. I wish I had a tube amp, maybe one day I will buy a tube headphone amp and a do not disturb sign to go with it.

The industry with it's corporate heads tried to fool customers for years with false misleading specifications. The state of audio today for the common man is pathetic at best.
 

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One more question, I thought everything was good and just as I got the panels ready to be reinstalled I went to test them and the speakers are hissing/crackling when the volume is turned up ( not even close to max volume). I also just changed the head unit. Brought the speakers & tweeters inside and they are working fine. Could this be due to a poor soldering job on the harness adapter? If so is it easier to just cut and resolder the entire harness?
Hissing and cracking can be do to just about anything. I would first check your grounds.
What kind of aftermarket head unit do you have.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I have a jvc kw hdr720 head unit. Does the ground wire need to be soldered to the harness adapter (it has a black wire labeled as 'ground' also) or grounded separately? Currently I have it soldered to the harness' ground wire.

And OldMan, after reading that I feel like clouds should part with light shining down haha
 

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I do like my tube headphone amp. Built via online instructions a while ago.
 

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One more question, I thought everything was good and just as I got the panels ready to be reinstalled I went to test them and the speakers are hissing/crackling when the volume is turned up ( not even close to max volume). I also just changed the head unit. Brought the speakers & tweeters inside and they are working fine. Could this be due to a poor soldering job on the harness adapter? If so is it easier to just cut and resolder the entire harness?
just for reference toyota interior wiring has remained almost unchanged for sometime now, heres a link http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~88598 to a corolla which is the same as just about any toyota you can find(minus factory amplified systems), the noise your hearing sounds like one of the speakers you installed has the wire terminal grounding out to the door or chassis of the vehicle, this will cause the distortion your hearing at volume,
an easy way to test this is with your car on and your radio off, make sure your doors are shut and the windows are up, turn your radio on and listen for a faint or distinct pop coming from either one or both of the speakers before it plays any music ( you can repeat this step turning the radio on and off to be sure where the pop is coming from), whatever side you hear the pop from is the side that has the ground issue, pull that side off or both if it pops on both sides and make sure the terminals are not touching any part of the door as well as loose or frayed wiring when the speaker is screwed down,
now if you dont hear any type of pop in the beginning the culprit is still most likely a door speaker grounding somewhere it just makes it easier if you can eliminate taking the doors off if you dont have too, anyway hope this helps and if you have any questions audio or 12 volt related give me a shout...
 

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Discussion Starter #19
just for reference toyota interior wiring has remained almost unchanged for sometime now, heres a link http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~88598 to a corolla which is the same as just about any toyota you can find(minus factory amplified systems), the noise your hearing sounds like one of the speakers you installed has the wire terminal grounding out to the door or chassis of the vehicle, this will cause the distortion your hearing at volume,
an easy way to test this is with your car on and your radio off, make sure your doors are shut and the windows are up, turn your radio on and listen for a faint or distinct pop coming from either one or both of the speakers before it plays any music ( you can repeat this step turning the radio on and off to be sure where the pop is coming from), whatever side you hear the pop from is the side that has the ground issue, pull that side off or both if it pops on both sides and make sure the terminals are not touching any part of the door as well as loose or frayed wiring when the speaker is screwed down,
now if you dont hear any type of pop in the beginning the culprit is still most likely a door speaker grounding somewhere it just makes it easier if you can eliminate taking the doors off if you dont have too, anyway hope this helps and if you have any questions audio or 12 volt related give me a shout...
Tried taking the speakers off the door and they are both still crackling/hissing. When tested inside they work like a charm. The audio cuts out completely when the volume is turned up even a little and becomes all crackling (when connected to the car's new HU). Both the speakers and tweeters are doing this.
 

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Reach behind HU and shake wiring if there is no difference bring HU inside or temporarily install old HU to test this will eliminate HU as fault.If fault still exists you know it's in the wiring.Get some wire and hook up speakers lying on your seats.If this eliminates the fault just run new wire as it will be quicker than tracing fault.
Another thing is current draw if the new HU demands a lot more current you may have to run a heavier wire or install a capacitor.
 
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