MR2 SpyderChat banner
41 - 45 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,300 Posts
A few things

First, I do not want to be seen as out to steal Panicwire's work. So I would ask @tony_r that he does not share any specific information here. If I really want to see how panicwire did it, I will purchase and pay for one of their ecu's and then I will keep it to myself. Adapting the AltezzaLink to run a zz is a simple project that can be figured out very easily and we are most of the way there already. Basically at the point we are now the ECU can be wired and configured and plugged in and the car will run and the cluster might even work. I have a dyno so I can tune the running maps. I would prefer to continue working through it independently without any output from the panic product so that everything I do can be made public to benefit everyone else who wants to DIY. By the way I think the Panicwire product is a very good value and it will probably end up costing me more to take this path than just buy one of theirs but hey where's the fun in that. .

Secondly, the link works differently from an ECUmaster. When you select an Aux output for idle control it works without having to do anything else. You can read up more on the LInk aux output functions in their product literature.

Yes there is closed loop idle control in the Link but first you set up and tune the open loop control before you switch on closed loop so I have not switched it on.

For anyone interested in following this thread I suggest that you download the Link software and follow along with what is being done here with the videos and images provided and read the usage notes in the software - this answers a lot of questions that might be confusing othewise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
303 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
First, I do not want to be seen as out to steal Panicwire's work. So I would ask @tony_r that he does not share any specific information here. If I really want to see how panicwire did it, I will purchase and pay for one of their ecu's and then I will keep it to myself. Adapting the AltezzaLink to run a zz is a simple project that can be figured out very easily and we are most of the way there already. Basically at the point we are now the ECU can be wired and configured and plugged in and the car will run and the cluster might even work. I have a dyno so I can tune the running maps. I would prefer to continue working through it independently without any output from the panic product so that everything I do can be made public to benefit everyone else who wants to DIY. By the way I think the Panicwire product is a very good value and it will probably end up costing me more to take this path than just buy one of theirs but hey where's the fun in that. .
Agreed, panicwire seems to be a good value as we've discussed before. I don't think sharing a running 2zz G4x config would devalue their product.

Secondly, the link works differently from an ECUmaster. When you select an Aux output for idle control it works without having to do anything else. You can read up more on the LInk aux output functions in their product literature.
No, it actually works exactly the same, just with less total outputs on the standard g4x.

G4x
4 + 2 H-Bridges (called Aux 1 - 8)

EMU Black
6 + 2 H-Bridges (called Aux 1 - 6 and H-Bridge 1 - 2)

G4x altezza
10 total, at least 2 h-bridges to run the e throttle, no documentation that I can find easily.

From the G4x manual...
·Only Auxiliary Outputs 5 to 8 can high side drive loads.
Push Pull Driving Loads

Push-Pull driving refers to wiring a load in such a was as that when the outputs are in one state current flows in one direction through the load (push), and when the drivers are in the opposite state the current flows in the other direction through the load (pull). The loads two terminals are wired to auxiliary outputs 5 and 6 or 7 and 8. This drive mode is only used to control four terminal ISC stepper motors and bidirectional DC motors. There are no configurable auxiliary outputs options when using a push-pull drive mode. Wire as per given wiring diagrams and select the correct auxiliary output function.
The circuit terminology is h-bridge regardless of what anyone calls it.
wiki

Yes there is closed loop idle control in the Link but first you set up and tune the open loop control before you switch on closed loop so I have not switched it on.
I'm glad to hear it has it. I haven't had a chance to dive that deep into it yet. I suggest disabling the spark PID control as well before tuning the base IACV DC table and of course all the other steps required before getting into idle control tuning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
Just gonna throw this out there.

I've converted an AltezzaLink to run a Spyder, including all its ancillaries such as A/C, All instrumentation (minus the oil pressure light) and everything works flawlessly. Its 21-23 wires to swap out to get it all to work.

There is no reason to ever use a PowerFC again now :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,300 Posts
Just gonna throw this out there.

I've converted an AltezzaLink to run a Spyder, including all its ancillaries such as A/C, All instrumentation (minus the oil pressure light) and everything works flawlessly. Its 21-23 wires to swap out to get it all to work.

There is no reason to ever use a PowerFC again now :)
Would you be willing to share with us anything else you had to do to get it working besides what is written about here. Any specific issues or challenges? I think I had left the idle control tbd. MIght revisit this at some point if I ever get around to putting a turbo the 2zz.
 
41 - 45 of 45 Posts
Top