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Discussion Starter #1
When I swapped my engine for a 2ZZ, I seized the opportunity to also upgrade my transmission to a 6-speed C60 with a TRD helical LSD. While the car is driveable and all gears are useable, I have some difficulties shifting that I need to go away. The symptoms are this:

1st gear: hard to get into and a little hard to find. My current workaround is to put the transmission into 3rd gear, then go to neutral and then 1st. There's not as much resistance when I do this, for some reason.
3rd gear: after having been in reverse, I cannot move the shifter right of the first leg of the H-pattern unless I jiggle the shifter forward and back, causing the hang to "pop" free. Manipulating the linkage from the engine bay appears to indicate the right shifter cable (moves shaft in/out, moves shifter left/right) is the sole cable hanging, as it is what seems to "pop" free, or at least it moves when the hang frees. My current workaround is to jiggle the shifter after reversing so I don't have an impossible shift to do from 2nd to 3rd.

Double-clutching helps neither issue. The transmission was purchased used from MonkeyWrench Racing with LSD, shifter shaft, and reverse blockout installed by them. The linkage from the MR2 Spyder had to(?) be carried over to the new transmission and the modified shifter shaft was removed from the C60, installed on the Spyder linkage, then the linkage/shaft assembly was installed in the transmission. Speed Source cable bushings are installed. The clutch, should it matter, is an ACT HDSS. The transmission was filled to overflow from the fill plug with Synchromesh gear oil.

My first thought was that something was interfering with the linkage's movement in the engine bay, but inspection revealed nothing in the linkage's way. The next potential problem I thought would be a misalignment, of sorts, with the shifter shaft in the transmission, so I pulled it out, made sure all the rotating pieces were straight, and put it back it. It doesn't/didn't go straight in, but I think I got it in the right way, especially since all gears mostly work. The next problem I thought I might have was a rotation of shifter cable(s) so I pulled the bushings off, and it seems the cables wanted to align with the direction I installed them in, indicating no rotation. I've exhausted my mechanical knowledge, and frankly, transmissions are magical devices to me. Fellow Spyderchatters, what actions do I need to take to either pinpoint my problem or correct it?

Thanks in advance for your expertise.
 

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The first thing I would check is that the clutch is dis-engaging completely. If the engine is NOT running is the shifting any better?
 

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the springs on the shifter shaft may be reversed or incorrect.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Shifting gears with the engine stopped helps my 1st gear issue, but not the post-reverse shifting issue. Should o adjust the clutch pedal to ensure full disengagement?

When I have a.day off from work, I'll pull the shifter shaft out for some pictures.
 

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You mentioned you used Speed Source shifter bushings, I believe I used the same brand by I'm not positive. Anyway mine came with instructions saying if shifting felt tight to swap the bushings with each other, and for me it did feel different. Hope it helps.
 

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5-spd shifter vs 6-spd

Because I happen to have both stock shifters lying around in the next room, I decided to take a quick look at the differences:

6-speed shifter (from UK) is on the left, 5-speed (from USA) on the right. As far as I can tell, the cage (white plastic/nylon) is identical. Some differences, though... the curvature on the 5-speed is more side-to-side, whereas on the 6 it is closer to on-axis (enough so that in the picture it appears straight, even though it is not).


The second difference: the side-to-side leverage of the 6-speed is a bit more. It was hard to get pics, but this piece on the 6 is a couple of mm longer than on the 5:


All that aside, my advice to the OP is: have someone else shift through the gears with you watching from the engine bay (car not running, obviously). This is the easiest way to tell if your cables are correctly secured. A missing clip will make shifting a nightmare.
 

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I had issues with my 6 speed on my trip to the Tail of the Dragon last year. 1st and reverse were almost impossible to find and near the end of the trip I had to hold the shifter in reverse in order to back up. It turned out that there is a lever lock pin on the shifter lever where it attaches to the shifter shaft on the transmission that had worked loose. There is supposed to be a nut that holds the pin in. It was gone completely and the pin was working its way out which caused a lot of play in the lever. You might want to give it a look see just in case.
 

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Thread ressurection time... I am having the same reverse gear issues as the OP, weird shifter "hang" in the left gate if I do not vigorously jiggle the shifter to pop it free. OP, did you ever find the cause of this issue? I've tried everything mentioned in this thread short of pulling the shaft and swapping the springs around. Trans is c60 from a Celica.
 

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I had this issue and traced it to a burr on the shift select piece that is attached to the shifter shaft. Took the shaft out, made sure all the pieces had all the burrs/catches removed. Then reinstalled and I ended up by hand from the engine compartment forcing it 'across' that resistance from the 1-2 gate to the normal center position after putting it in reverse. Did this 8 - 10 times and now it feels perfect, even still a couple years later all good.
 

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no update on what resolved this? I too am having this issue
For me the washers/shimming the bracket solved the problem. I tried 3 different sets before I was satisfied with the shifting and where the shift lever sits in the car now. It now sits slightly right but it's so slight I'm probably the only one that ever notices it. If I recall, the washers I used we're just slightly thicker than your generic fender washer.

Adding washers under the bell crank bracket may solve the problem. The image at the bottom of the page in the link below shows where they go

https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/tech-mr2-s-2zz-swap/
 

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For me the washers/shimming the bracket solved the problem. I tried 3 different sets before I was satisfied with the shifting and where the shift lever sits in the car now. It now sits slightly right but it's so slight I'm probably the only one that ever notices it. If I recall, the washers I used we're just slightly thicker than your generic fender washer.
that even with the mwr reverse blockout? i just bought one, coming in the mail
 

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that even with the mwr reverse blockout? i just bought one, coming in the mail
Yes, the blockout just has a spring loaded sleeve that is pushed in when you go to reverse to add some resistance. The washers / spacers just add more travel
 
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