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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

so my car is back. The previous motor had put a rod through the block.

It has a HASS stage 2 bolt on kit and then had stock internals

I have since replaced it with a second hand 1zz which we completely rebuilt. I'm wondering what is the max boost i can run and how do you figure out what is max boost that you can run?
Here are the specs:
- Wiseco 8.8 pistons
- MWR valves
- MWR Rods
- Cometic head gasket
- ARP bolts on the fly and head
- Block has been rebored slightly
- Hass Stage II bolt on turbo kit (modified and improved)
- Turbo Garrett GT2860RS Disco Potato
- Bottom Mount intercooler
- Aquamist 1S water/meth injection system
- Full 3 inch exhaust with 1 cat and 1 bullet muffler (2 outlets machined from billet stainless steel)
- HKS SSQV blow off valve (genuine, not Chinese reproduction)
- Siemens Deka 630cc injectors
- TRD helical limited slip diff
- C-One solid engine mounts
- ARC oil catch tank
- ATP 3 inch MAF tube
- Ogura Pro Carbon Clutch (Multi plate with matching flywheel and release bearing)

I'm currently boosting at 1.1bar max (about 16psi) and it made 339BHP at the flywheel
Had it tuned on Saturday. No knock or detonation even at this boost.
 

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You could squeeze some more horse power out of that, but why? You haven't mentiioned engine managment, torque numbers or shown us a graph with AFR. Your weak link will be the transmission with much more torque. J&S safe guard will give you some peace of mind. If it aint broke, don't fix it.
 

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Whatever your turbo allows you to and get an E153 transaxle swap.
Only about 6 grand in parts and adapter stuff for the E153!

If I was going to spend this much more on my car, I'd have to go V-6. The limitations for moditis with these cars in the size of you wallet.
 

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He probably has double that already in his motor and turbo build (maybe more) so it's not that far out of the question. I mean basically that's his real limitation at this point.

Anything over 300whp reliably on this car is going to break the bank exponentially past $10k whether it's built 1zz, 2zz turbo or 2GR.

400whp with a gt2860?
Yeah I thought those were good for ~360 so then he'd need to redesign the system, exhaust, manifold and turbo.
 

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He probably has double that already in his motor and turbo build (maybe more) so it's not that far out of the question. I mean basically that's his real limitation at this point.

Anything over 300whp reliably on this car is going to break the bank exponentially past $10k whether it's built 1zz, 2zz turbo or 2GR.



Yeah I thought those were good for ~360 so then he'd need to redesign the system, exhaust, manifold and turbo.
he got water meth so it maybe possible
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So you think as it stands its fine engine-wise but anything more would destroy the tranny?

Here is a bit more info on the other mods:
CHASSIS
Cusco front & rear under braces
Cusco skid plate
Cusco side pillar bars
Cusco front camber plates
Cusco front and rear anti sway bars
Twos R us front and rear sway bar links
TRD front and rear strut bars
TRD full front and rear suspension bushings
TRD rear top strut mounts
Woods zinc plated cross drilled and slotted rotors
Goodrich brake lines

ELECTRONICS
Apexi Power FC with commander and extra FC edit box and software
Innovate motorsports LM1 and LMA3 with logworks software
Blitz SDC ID III sequential electronic boost controller
 

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I saw a video of a twincharge exige and the guy used the toyota C56 instead of the 6 speed just so it can handle 680whp.
I am pretty sure he wasnt trying to make the C56 last, it was just being used for the gearing. I used the C56 in my 400whp celica for quite some time bc of the longer gears. It did seem to last a little longer as well but I have seen failures in both the C56 and the C60.
 

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The C56 is not any stronger than the C60.

For the turbo question, with a built engine and good turbo setup we've seen 340whp out of a GT28RS. Not sure on your kit but if the intercooler and pipes are smaller you may be closer to the 300-320whp range. Turbo size will limit your boost level at high rpm but you can run higher boost in the midrange to bump up the torque number and mid rpm acceleration. Careful, peak torque is also what kills transmissions much more than top end power.
 
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