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I recently installed some rebuilt Tein Monoflex coilovers and ordered the EDFC Active Pro kit as well as the GPS to get full functionality. Basically, this kit adds motors that adjust the dampers and are controlled by a control module, which connects wirelessly to a central unit that you can place in the cabin. From there you can map the system to adjust the dampers based on longitudinal/lateral G force (measured by the central unit) as well as vehicle speed (from the GPS). This has been great for me, as I've found that the softer settings work fine for low speeds but end up with the car feeling too bouncy once you start accelerating. It reacts in a fraction of a second, adjusts each damper individually, and generally makes the car feel much flatter through everything, shifting, braking, cornering, etc.
Install was a bit of a pain (I've never done anything like this), but the instruction manual is a great resource, as well as Tein USA who answered all of my dumb questions. For the Spyder, you'll put one control module in the front trunk and one in the engine bay, both need 5 amps, and the central unit (5a), power filter (1a) and GPS can go anywhere you'd like. I ended up tapping into the cigarette lighter fuse and wiring a secondary fuse box off of that, drawing a total of 11 amps as I wired the front trunk control module through the floorboard because I couldn't find a switched power source in there.
I removed the ashtray and used the metal piece in there as a support for the central unit, so that it could more accurately measure G force without moving. I tucked the GPS and power filter behind the glovebox, where I have my navigation GPS located also. I've had no issues with losing signal here, so it seemed like the best and easiest place to put these.
For the front, I tucked the control module under one of the headlight supports, and routed the wiring through the sway bar mounting brackets to have somewhere to secure them to. I also added some cheap shielding for the wiring in case of any rubbing, but it's plenty loose to move with the dampers through steering and bumps.
The rear was a bit trickier, as there's more heat and less room. I had already relocated the battery to the crossmember, so I put the control module on top of the transmission mount, and routed the right rear damper wiring above the exhaust heat shields. I also used some heat shielding for the wiring as I know that area gets hot quickly and doesn't have any airflow. I used the same wire protector for the rear, and ran the wires through the fender liners and used the existing brackets to keep them away from the sway bars.
wire routing/heatshield
Overall, I'm really happy with the setup, I've never had dampers that adjusted from the bottom and while I'm still young, I didn't want to crawl on the floor every time I felt like messing with them. The performance benefit to me is significant, I've driven it with the EDFC Active settings off and there is a noticeable difference from the mapping that I use, as I said before the system keeps the car very flat through shifting, braking, and cornering. To the point where the first few shifts felt completely foreign to me. Whether it makes the car any faster, I can't say. I'm not a consistent enough performance driver to speak to that. Generally the sound of the adjustments is drowned out by road noise, but I can hear the motors working when coming to a stop if I turn the radio off. I've seen a couple people look over when I'm coming to a stop, it's hard to describe the sound other than it being high pitched and robotic, but it's usually not noticeable.
I got this for around $500 from Black Hawk Japan, and I'm a huge fan. I think having active suspension is more than worth that price, and my experience with Tein customer support has been great so far, so I'm not worried about any future problems. I'm happy to answer any questions y'all may have, thanks for reading my rant
Install was a bit of a pain (I've never done anything like this), but the instruction manual is a great resource, as well as Tein USA who answered all of my dumb questions. For the Spyder, you'll put one control module in the front trunk and one in the engine bay, both need 5 amps, and the central unit (5a), power filter (1a) and GPS can go anywhere you'd like. I ended up tapping into the cigarette lighter fuse and wiring a secondary fuse box off of that, drawing a total of 11 amps as I wired the front trunk control module through the floorboard because I couldn't find a switched power source in there.
I removed the ashtray and used the metal piece in there as a support for the central unit, so that it could more accurately measure G force without moving. I tucked the GPS and power filter behind the glovebox, where I have my navigation GPS located also. I've had no issues with losing signal here, so it seemed like the best and easiest place to put these.
For the front, I tucked the control module under one of the headlight supports, and routed the wiring through the sway bar mounting brackets to have somewhere to secure them to. I also added some cheap shielding for the wiring in case of any rubbing, but it's plenty loose to move with the dampers through steering and bumps.
The rear was a bit trickier, as there's more heat and less room. I had already relocated the battery to the crossmember, so I put the control module on top of the transmission mount, and routed the right rear damper wiring above the exhaust heat shields. I also used some heat shielding for the wiring as I know that area gets hot quickly and doesn't have any airflow. I used the same wire protector for the rear, and ran the wires through the fender liners and used the existing brackets to keep them away from the sway bars.
wire routing/heatshield
Overall, I'm really happy with the setup, I've never had dampers that adjusted from the bottom and while I'm still young, I didn't want to crawl on the floor every time I felt like messing with them. The performance benefit to me is significant, I've driven it with the EDFC Active settings off and there is a noticeable difference from the mapping that I use, as I said before the system keeps the car very flat through shifting, braking, and cornering. To the point where the first few shifts felt completely foreign to me. Whether it makes the car any faster, I can't say. I'm not a consistent enough performance driver to speak to that. Generally the sound of the adjustments is drowned out by road noise, but I can hear the motors working when coming to a stop if I turn the radio off. I've seen a couple people look over when I'm coming to a stop, it's hard to describe the sound other than it being high pitched and robotic, but it's usually not noticeable.
I got this for around $500 from Black Hawk Japan, and I'm a huge fan. I think having active suspension is more than worth that price, and my experience with Tein customer support has been great so far, so I'm not worried about any future problems. I'm happy to answer any questions y'all may have, thanks for reading my rant