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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking to buy MR2 and already found one (00's) but it seems like to bubble at low revs. What can it be? Maybe someone had this problem? The car costs about 5200 Eur with original wheels.

The poster looks like this:
Original hardtop;
LSD (factory);
TTE lowering springs (lowers 30 mm);
Recently installed KYB shock absorbers with new support bearings, freshly done wheel alignment;
The technical inspection is fair - the bearings, and rear floating silent-blocks were replaced;
Autec Wizard 16x7 wheels, the weight of one is about 7.5 kg;
New summer tires Federal St1 Evolution: front 205/45/16, rear - 215/45/16;
Custom exhaust from the exhaust manifold - 4-1;
All original stock/OEM parts are present, including the exhaust system (due to TA), springs, and original R15 wheels;
The body is free of rust but has natural cosmetic defects that do not affect the vehicle. It was polished two years ago.

Engine 1zz Fe - as everyone knows, it has an appetite for oil (1l per 1000 km when driving calmly). Also, the engine likes to bubble at low revs.

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I meant the sound of the engine. The owner said it could be the 4-cylinder or computer error. One weird fact is that when you disconnect the battery, it disappears for some time and doesn't affect the car's performance. Any clues? He was driving this car in this shape for 2 years...
 

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Four into 1 Custom Exhaust.. Sounds like a PPE 4:1 Problem with O2's.. Has the Exhaust O2 Sensor Wires been 'Converted'?.. There is an Issue with Messing with a Direct 4:1.. Usually needs to be a 4:2:1 with each O2 sensor in each Merge Pipe..

Read this thread.. Spyder Engines with the Factory ECU do not like 4:1 Exhaust..


I'd Buy it.. Its black and in good shape.. It's a 2000 so the engine will likely need rebuilding ( rings ) by 200km

Cap
 
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I know hard tops are more common in Europe but still at 5200€ unless Spyder prices are lower overall in Europe just buy it. 1L per 1000km is a lot of oil, so be prepared for the rebuild sooner than later.
 

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I meant the sound of the engine. The owner said it could be the 4-cylinder or computer error. One weird fact is that when you disconnect the battery, it disappears for some time and doesn't affect the car's performance. Any clues? He was driving this car in this shape for 2 years...
Buddy you are not doing a good job of explaining what you are experiencing with your car. I get bubbles from champagne, beer, soda water, tonic, and other fizzy drinks. You're getting bubbles out of your car? Over and out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Buddy you are not doing a good job of explaining what you are experiencing with your car. I get bubbles from champagne, beer, soda water, tonic, and other fizzy drinks. You're getting bubbles out of your car? Over and out.
Sorry man, but it's not my car, I just gave you the information that I got from the seller. I will check the car in the coming days and be back with the car (I believe) and the true situation.
 

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I think the word you are looking for is "burble", and is the sound of a rough, partial misfire, idle. The first thing to do is hook up an OBD reader and read the fault codes. Then diagnose based on the codes. The factory shop manual has diagnostic procedures for every fault code.
 

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To your 'Burble'.. The Clue is the Sound goes away after an ECU Reset.. It's a 'Learned' thing.. That is why I narrowed in on the 4:1.. That is a Symptom of the Fuel Trims not happy with what the O2's are actually telling the ECU..

Cap
 

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Sorry man, but it's not my car, I just gave you the information that I got from the seller. I will check the car in the coming days and be back with the car (I believe) and the true situation.
Ok in that case I givve you dollars to donuts that your issue is the belt tensioner "bubbling" at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I got the new information that on the cold start it gives black smoke and at some point, it had blue smoke (now somehow it's fixed - idk). Looks like engine swap would be for real
 

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Blue smoke = oil. Black smoke = fuel. White smoke = coolant. Yesterday I was at my buddy's shop, where he had a 90's model Caravan that, depending on load, gave different colors. The customer wanted the tie rods fixed, and an alignment. We were rolling on the floor laughing. This is the kind of comedic relief that mechanics live for.
 

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I'd say that is worth it just because of the factory hardtop and LSD.

1ZZ engines are plentiful and easy to find, so I wouldn't be too concerned about the engine.
 

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2001 1zz Spyder, ALFA Spider, BMW Z4, 02 Bugeye WRX
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Your burble may be the hint of an exhaust backfire. If you get it see if it happens trailing throttle after down shift. Let it slow way down on the gear and see if you get more burble or pop. If so, it maybe a bit rich. If so, Check the fuel trims. I get a trailing throttle burble/pop with MAF Mod and 4:1 header.
 

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So to answer your orginal question of if you should buy the car, consider the following:

1. Are you willing to do a engine replacement yourself? Do have the skills, time, tools, equipment and money?
I am doing a replacement on mine right now. It's not the easiest engine to change and have replaced 3 engines now. The engine itself cost me 3500, then your going to need to replace parts, maybe another 1000, or more if you make a mistake. I am concerned that you do not know how to diagnose a sound if you plan to do a swap yourself, but its a learning process so if you think can go for it but make sure you can finish if you start. Tearing your car apart is very scary.

2. To hire someone to replace the engine for you is expensive. I would price shops in your area before you buy the car. In my area it's 7000 us dollars for a used engine at 90,000 miles.

3. There are alwasy more cars, but there is no perfect MR2, thease cars are 22 years old. At some point you will be lookong at an engine or other part replacements anyway. If you don't want to spend a fortune it might be a good idea to take some auto classes.

4. Those are some nice mods, if you put thise on a stick MR2, your gonna pay more than if you bought car already with them

My opinion:
1. Get the car as a 2nd project car and learn how to do the work yourself.

2. If you can't work on ityourselff: Dont buy the car.
 
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