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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (djb @ Sep 15 2008, 03:16 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Yeah, and the next bill that comes in will show me a lovely purchase from japanparts.com for a Sportivo set shipped to Illinois.[/b]
Well, duh....but I'm worth it. :icon_rolleyes:
 

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I have no doubt in my mind.
 

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Just got Mojo out today for a nice little drive. He's so happy. Yes, a mild difference in sound, and a perceived improvement in "pep."

Tools and supplies: approximately $350
Time: approximately 4 hours total
Frustration factor: moderate (primarily due to heat shield bolts)

Sleeping better because I know the precats are out? PRICELESS.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Tools and supplies: approximately $350[/b]
Holy moly. I wonder if I even have that much in tools. And I've got a pretty big tool chest that is full too.

Would you say the difference in sound will be something you notice in a month or will it just sort of fade away until you can't even tell the difference between it and stock?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Sep 16 2008, 08:54 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
Tools and supplies: approximately $350[/b]
Holy moly. I wonder if I even have that much in tools. And I've got a pretty big tool chest that is full too.

Would you say the difference in sound will be something you notice in a month or will it just sort of fade away until you can't even tell the difference between it and stock?
[/b][/quote]

Well, I had pretty much NOTHING when it came to the tools. That also includes the ramps, gaskets, etc. The torque wrench was $70.

I think it will fade away, but I'll let you know in about a month.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Well, I had pretty much NOTHING when it came to the tools. That also includes the ramps, gaskets, etc. The torque wrench was $70.[/b]
Maybe it's best I don't add up how much I have in tools. I suppose if you counted the tool box itself it would easily top 350 but that was a gift (hand me down) from my dad. If you were to buy one that is as good of quality today I suppose that alone would cost 300 (craftsman toolboxes have gone down hill IMO)... Hmph.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Tools and supplies: approximately $350[/b]
Mine ran about $250 and, like you, I had a bunch of smarmy people chiming in saying, "Woah! That's too much!" They questioned my $250 figure with such disbelief it was if they were suggesting that I was lying.

As you discovered, if you're starting from scratch, yes, you might very well need $350 in tools. Especially if you're buying quality. Almost every single one of them will be useful to you again and you'll be so glad you have them.
 

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Just FYI for those with 03 models, here are the part numbers for the gaskets and 3 amigos:

Exhaust manifold gasket: 17173-0D020
Exhaust gaskets (downpipe connection): 90080-43036 (need 2)
Locking nut (3 amigos): 90080-17187 (need 3)
 

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OK, I didn't want to start a separate thread for this, because I think this is related to the gutting procedure and the solution belongs in this thread.

I gutted the cats back in September or so. During my October road trip, dev helped me install a Tom's steering rack brace. When dev drove the car to see if he thought the brace made a difference, he told me I had an exhaust leak. I'd bet it's gutting-related, so my first assumption is the manifold interface because I couldn't get to all the bolts with my torque wrench and had to make a guess at the torque applied. I suspect this area because of my initial concern when I started it up after gutting it (the question about whether or not the 'fumes' observed were exhaust fumes or fumes from the freshly painted header). I'll also doublecheck the header-downpipe junction, but that came together fairly easily and I think it's less likely to be the cause.

I decided to loosen all of them, then re-torque them to the 27 ft-lb spec. I got a torque wrench that seemed to have a smaller head, but still no dice.

The problems (remember, this is a stock manifold):
1. Regular socket won't fit--the bolt protrudes too much, and the socket won't seat on the nut.
2. Cannot get a deep socket on 2 of the 5 bolts--there's not enough clearance between the nut/bolt and the header pipes for the socket itself, let alone the wrench head. (The two bolts in question are the "inside" bolts.)

WTF do I do? I checked a couple of the local places and couldn't find a medium-deep socket. Also couldn't find a torque wrench with a very small head, even though that alone won't solve the problem.

Is there a torque wrench-medium depth socket combo that will get to these, or am I going to have to take it to Mr T and let them re-torque the bolts to spec?
 

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Ok first off that 1/2" drive torque wrench you have isn't going to be accurate at 27 ft pounds. You most likely aren't get them to the right spec anyway. Personally what I would do (did) is take a offset wrench and tighten them down tight.

Hmmm.... Now who was the one babbling about not wanting to have leaks and redoing things? :p
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Jan 12 2009, 08:30 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Ok first off that 1/2" drive torque wrench you have isn't going to be accurate at 27 ft pounds. You most likely aren't get them to the right spec anyway. Personally what I would do (did) is take a offset wrench and tighten them down tight.[/b]
Yeah, gotcha on that--that's why I got a different one, too. But that one doesn't fit, either.

I tightened them tight the first time, so I'm thinking that might not be the most effective way. And yes, I didn't just tighten them "girly tight." They were freaking tight.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Hmmm.... Now who was the one babbling about not wanting to have leaks and redoing things? :p[/b]
Bite me. :p THIS is why I don't want leaks and have to redo things. If I'd had the right torque wrench/socket combo in the beginning, I wouldn't be dealing with this now. I rest my case.


OK, next question--someone mentioned tightening them in the "correct order." It might have been you, dd. A reference to the BGB was made for that order. My 2003 BGB says absolutely NOTHING about an ordering for tightening them. To me, it makes most sense to do the innermost ones first, then the outside ones. Or do they get done like the lugs, in a crossing pattern? I honestly don't remember the order I used, so maybe that's part (or all) of the problem.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (hokiemule @ Jan 12 2009, 08:42 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
THIS is why I don't want leaks and have to redo things. If I'd had the right torque wrench/socket combo in the beginning, I wouldn't be dealing with this now. I rest my case.[/b]
Hokie, I am so glad you are on here willing to go the distance to do things right. I find it ironic that the "mule" of the group is so unwilling to half ass the project. The head is aluminum: correct and equal/consistent torque are very important.

As you mentioned the problem is the manifold studs are just a little too long to use a standard size socket, but a deep socket will not fit in the limited space around the header. To make your standard size socket just a hair longer, do not insert the torque wrench (or extension) into the socket all the way. Just insert in long enough to drive it (see picture). You will still not have enough socket to seat it completely on the nut, but you'll get enough of it. You're only putting 27 ft. lbs. of torque onto this so it will be fine. Just put the socket on the nut first, then partially insert the wrench (or extension) into the back of the socket and tighten it up.

As for the correct order to tighten the nuts, you were right to start in the middle and work outwards. You can do this in two stages if you really want to go all out.

Also, there may be a possibility that the leak you now have has left a bit of carbon on the head, gasket and/or header that will not allow the three to seal completely. It's not likely, but possible. If that's the case you'll need to take it apart and clean off the buildup with steel wool or scotch brite pad.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (BBYE V8 @ Jan 12 2009, 10:41 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
Hokie, I am so glad you are on here willing to go the distance to do things right. I find it ironic that the "mule" of the group is so unwilling to half ass the project.[/b]
That's a great quote! Very clever.

Great advice, thanks! I'll give that a try and report back.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
Great advice, thanks! I'll give that a try and report back.[/b]
Say, Hokie, just out of curiosity, what are symptoms of the leak? What are you hearing that lets you know it's a leak and that the manifold is the culprit?
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (southerneditor @ Jan 12 2009, 11:35 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
Great advice, thanks! I'll give that a try and report back.[/b]
Say, Hokie, just out of curiosity, what are symptoms of the leak? What are you hearing that lets you know it's a leak and that the manifold is the culprit?
[/b][/quote]

I will confess that I'm not good enough at this to know. I'm going off dev's expertise; plus, there were others there who agreed with him (let's see...who was there? blahpony, MISOJDM, murray, Mark G. I think that's all, but please forgive me if I left someone out). He could hear indications of a leak. I'm ASSUMING it's the manifold because I had so much trouble getting the bolts torqued (or, in two cases, probably NOT torqued to spec). I'm going with the most likely culprit to rule it out first.

I'll PM dev and see if he can post a reply with more details about his assessment of it.
 

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I have had too much experiences with exhaust leaks than I would like to admit because it is frustrating.
I drove Kim's car around the block and noticed a faint exhaust leak. When you pass by curbs and other cars it is appreciable .

Because of her history of replacing the header I suspect that it can possibly be a very slight leak where the header meets the manifold or where it meets the down pipe.
I suggest using some black exhaust sealant that can be purchased from Napa and it should take care of the problem.

However I do not see any problem driving it the way it is but it might get louder as time goes by and become more of an annoyance.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE </div>
I suggest using some black exhaust sealant that can be purchased from Napa and it should take care of the problem.[/b]
She doesn't believe me that this is a viable method to sealing an exhaust vs. getting a new gasket. :p

(You knew you were going to get crap sooner or later hokie, it's been awhile since I've given you any. :p )
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Jan 12 2009, 12:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
I suggest using some black exhaust sealant that can be purchased from Napa and it should take care of the problem.[/b]
She doesn't believe me that this is a viable method to sealing an exhaust vs. getting a new gasket. :p

(You knew you were going to get crap sooner or later hokie, it's been awhile since I've given you any. :p )
[/b][/quote]

How did you like using the exhaust sealant I recommended.
 

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<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (dev @ Jan 12 2009, 12:03 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}></div>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE (darkday @ Jan 12 2009, 12:58 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>
<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE
I suggest using some black exhaust sealant that can be purchased from Napa and it should take care of the problem.[/b]
She doesn't believe me that this is a viable method to sealing an exhaust vs. getting a new gasket. :p

(You knew you were going to get crap sooner or later hokie, it's been awhile since I've given you any. :p )
[/b][/quote]

How did you like using the exhaust sealant I recommended.
[/b][/quote]
Great, in fact it would EXACTLY like you said it would. I took off my old che's manifold that I used the stuff on a few weeks ago to sell it and put my stocker on and it wasn't sticky or anything. 0 issues, plus I've used the same tube twice (Very generously) and could probably use it for 2-3 more times as well.
 
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