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Discussion Starter #1,161 (Edited)
BEAN update today, Randy dropped by for some final debugging on the pre-production body controller today.

The resulting video is here:

The technical details for those that care. There was a scaling issue on the temperature conversion from CAN to the gauge, i fixed that. Also i had the polarity on the Oil pressure light flipped so i inverted that. At this point I'm thrilled with the software. Other than the A/C software I feel that it is done at this point.

I am adding two more feature to the production version though.
1) Power steering pump control to disable the power steering pump when the engine isn't running.
2) Coolant fan control for non 2AR-FE swaps. For the 2GR-FE and probably other swaps where the engine controller does not control the coolant fans the body controller will trigger the fans on to avoid needing yet another module for the swap.

Also, right now I've got a few resistors on the board to protect the OBDII port from a short circuit but if you short it you'd have to send the body controller back to me for repair. I will be adding a fuse holder on the circuit board to avoid the need to send it back. It's a real pain to get inside the ECU to replace a fuse but there's just no other good way to protect that line since it isn't designed for 15A and that's all i have available for permanently on power sources.

I expect to send off for production intent boards next week. I'll assemble the first 10 boards here myself while i seek out a manufacturer to make the 2nd batch with a proper pick & place.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,162
I think I got the production intent circuit board design wrapped up but i do have a question for you guys. I added the ability to control the coolant fans from the body controller for the 2GR-FE swaps and possibly other swaps. the 2AR-FE has integrated cooling fan control. To configure these options i decided to just put a few traces that you can cut. Are you guys comfortable with this method of configuration? (C & D aren't used at the moment yet, trying to think of other things that may need to be configured)

 

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Discussion Starter #1,164
The holes on either side of the wire are designed for a wire jumper to be soldered back in if something needs to be changed.

The issue is jumpers are not reliable with the heat cycles and dip switches are not compatible with the conformal coating that i want to use over the whole board to protect it. I thought about it for a bit and Holley uses a cut wire to configure their simple modules, this is the same idea but not a wire, a trace on the board.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,166
Yeah, conformal coating is required for an application like this if you want it to last as long as the rest of the car. I'm doing my best to make this to OEM quality. I don't have the resources to do all the testing they would do but i can at least follow the best practices.

Same thing with the tunes, I can't put millions of test miles but i take it to the race track and beat the crap out for hours and hours on end before selling it. I also put on a bunch of street miles to make sure regular road manners are good.
 

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I think I got the production intent circuit board design wrapped up but i do have a question for you guys. I added the ability to control the coolant fans from the body controller for the 2GR-FE swaps and possibly other swaps. the 2AR-FE has integrated cooling fan control. To configure these options i decided to just put a few traces that you can cut. Are you guys comfortable with this method of configuration? (C & D aren't used at the moment yet, trying to think of other things that may need to be configured)
My impression is the stock 2GR has an autonomous fan controller. I haven't looked into it too much beyond troubleshooting some stock 2GR vehicles but I think it just receives a temperature input from the ECU over the Canbus. I don't think the ECU does any fan control. I'm not like 1 million percent certain about this sorry if I'm off. But if this is the case I'm not sure what this swap's body controller should be doing. .
 

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Discussion Starter #1,168
Frank, that's exactly the problem i'm trying to solve with that tweak . The 2AR-FE controls its own fans but the 2GR-FE does not. In the MKII that isn't a problem because the A/C amplifier takes care of that for you but In the Spyder the stock ECU manages the fans. So the idea is if you are using this body controller with an ECU that can't control its own fans the body controller can take over that task for you, just cut the trace and the body controller will activate the fans based on the OBDII reported temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,171
I am not following this. Do you mean during assembly, or during service?
Sorry I missed this earlier apparently. Jumpers work their way off over time. The same way socketed roms work their way out on ECUs in the early 90's and ram in late 80's PCs.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,172
The production intent boards finally came in!



I'll get one assembled and tested this week. There's a touch more software to write for things like the coolant fans stuff but that won't take long and then put them up on the store for sale finally.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,174
I haven't gotten around to the assembly yet. i got distracted by a race. I also wanted to share a bit of info, after 9.5 years of endurance racing this motor with no maintenance beyond oil changes at every race it finally had a failure. The rear main seal blew up and destroyed the clutch. Thankfully the car blew a CV at the same time and i was able to notice the leak before it destroyed the engine.

If i subtract the time waiting for parts the R&R on the motor took about 6-7hours in a parking lot in 45F weather. it could have gone quite a bit faster in a proper shop environment.

This motor overall has been very durable for me and I'm thrilled to fix it and keep going.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,177
So i tossed the 2AR i've been racing for 9.5 years now, the one that just blew the rear main seal on the engine stand and i was very curious what the wear on the engine looked like so i could figure out what the plan of action for the future was.

I honestly don't believe it. I will check the other bearings also but at this point i don't even see a point in replacing the bearings for reassembly.


Even the power side of rod bearing looks amazing. There's just barely a difference in sheen in the highest wear spot:


I also pulled the bearing shell off to see if there was any rotation since this is a tangless design. behind the bearing i can see that things got pretty hot here, hot enough that stagnant oil cooked a bit. Nothing of any concern though.
 

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That is incredible given the way you used it, seems like the OEM rods are more than stiff enough for 7200rpm even with that 98mm stroke. I was thinking about this engine again in comparison to the A25A...the A25A's changes are all geared towards low speed efficiency (very high tumble ratio => higher compression ratio & higher EGR flow), but at high speed the power advantage comes mostly from running leaner, since the EGTs are lower, and the electric water pump (2AR also has a variable displacement oil pump). If your stock 10.4 CR 2AR's valves haven't burned up from the higher EGT, I think an engine with only forged high compression pistons dropped in would still be bulletproof at 7700 maybe even 8000rpm.

Very curious to see how your cam does when you get around to it. I really want to build one of these and drop it into some car now.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,179
Yeah, i'm really blown away. This thing has been ridden so hard for so many years. i was expecting the motor to look like it had 500k miles on it in there. The lack of sludge isn't surprising because of how often i've changed the oil but everything else is.

The oil pump looks the same as the 2GR and that one survives 8000rpm just fine so i'd feel optimistic about going there.

As for the cams, they are about to go in. I've told the guys that i'm not signing the car up for another race until i beat the $3500+ k-series 240whp build (K24A2 bottom end, K20A2 head, K20A2 oil pump, K20Z3 intake) and hopefully with a lot less money.

I really considered doing the 2.7L stroker at the same time but that adds about $1600 to the build and i want to see if i can beat that k-series power with as low of a budget as possible.

So the plan right now is drop those 282 degree slightly higher lift cams in there with springs that will allow me to get to 8000RPM and see where that goes. 282 degrees should give me peak power between 7000 and 7500RPM. If magically it manages to keep that 190lb*ft of torque and just pushes it up the RPM band to say 7500RPM that would make 270whp but there's absolutely no way i'm going to get that lucky. especially not on the first try.

My goal is to beat 240whp with a stretch goal of 300whp to beat the 2GR but i'd be amazed if i get to that 300whp mark without putting boost to it or spending an absolute ton of money on it.
 

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If the cams don't get you there, I have a hunch deleting the intake manifold valve thingy will get you to 240. That's more than respectable, I wouldn't even bother with a stroker haha.

For a more street-oriented build, you could use ~270 intake/260 exhaust with modified intake manifold and it would still run fine, with the extra displacement making up for the drop in torque.
 
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