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Great work Marc! My only comment about the video is the volume, I have headphones in and it’s cranked and it is very quiet.

Will your board be useable with standalones possibly?
 

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Yeah, i noticed the volume issue after it had been posted already and youtube won’t let me edit it. There’s very little background noise though so i figured the volume can just be turned up. It did not occur to me that some people would not have enough amplification to address it. I could re-upload it but Youtube’s algorithm is excessively punitive about re-uploads. But the problem is noted and i was already planing on being careful about this in the future.

As for using this board with aftermarket ECUs, the answer is yes, but only some of them. The coolant temperature is requested over the OBDII can bus so you need an aftermarket ECU that supports OBDII messaging. I know the Haltech ECUs support it, i haven’t looked too deep but with all the OBDII gauges/dashes these days i would expect more and more aftermarket ECUs to support that messaging.

If there’s enough demand i may release an update that can also work with an independent coolant temperature sensor but it isn’t in the plan right now.
 

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Alright, all the work needed to get PCBs manufactured is done. There was WAY more paperwork needed than i could ever expect on this stuff. 25 body controllers ordered and will be in my hands in about a month.
 

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It's been a long time since posting, but I have been working on my 2ar swap.
Guys, this swap was easy. Easier than the SMT to manual. Easier than my first time pulling a 1zz.
I will be happy with a NA build (for a while), but it feels great knowing I can go with a 2.7 stroker, or a forced induction build.
Considering the flaws of the gen 3's 1zz, this swap is what is going to keep YOUR Snyder on the road.
Thank you Goucky!
 

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Dang it. I went to get the swap kit for a Christmas gift to myself and my card is giving me trouble. I'll get it figured out and I'll be buying into this beautiful swap. Goucky, you are a true hero to us all. Thank you for all the hard work you've put into this effort.
 

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Jeff, Thank you! Having people place an order is super appreciated. I've been doing this for 11 years now but every order always puts a huge smile on my face.

Feel free to use this coupon on the store for free continental USA shipping: DKZWI59 (anyone can use it, it's valid until the end of the month)

Also, i can send you a paypal invoice if the bank card is giving you issues but you have a paypal account. Just send me an e-mail and we can work out the details: [email protected]

Thanks!
 

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Started watching the Papadakisracing youtube channel and saw this video, where he talks about his custom intake manifold to equalize the power between the cylinders, because cylinder 4 was getting more air than the other cylinders with the stock intake manifold.

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I wish California wasn't so strict with engine swaps. I'm contemplating buying a second spyder as a "track only car" and just transferring the license plates between the two.
 

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Started watching the Papadakisracing youtube channel and saw this video, where he talks about his custom intake manifold to equalize the power between the cylinders, because cylinder 4 was getting more air than the other cylinders with the stock intake manifold.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="
" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I wish California wasn't so strict with engine swaps. I'm contemplating buying a second spyder as a "track only car" and just transferring the license plates between the two.
I think he was talking a bit generically about intake manifolds. the stock manifold is a completely different shape. It could still be imbalanced between cylinders but i don't know what the imbalance is. The wear seen in the motor i took apart shows that it's likely pretty damn close to balanced but some EGT probes would be needed to confirm that.
 

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OOF, so I had to go to China for the circuit board building. I found companies willing to do it in the USA but the first run was not enough parts for them. I just got the Trump tax today (ridiculously excessive import duties) so I'm having to make a price adjustment from $150 to $190 per body controller.

With that said,anyone that has purchased any MKIII swap parts before today will get a coupon code later today to honor the original target price of $150.

DHL will be dropping the boards off to me today, I'll do a bit of testing and then they will be available on the store.

Sorry about that, i should have expected this and planned appropriately.
 

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Man this is intense, I hope you have enough sales to make it worth your while! I feel like a lazy bum seeing your work. I have been thinking about the Spyder platform again (though not going to be in a position to have a crazy modded car for at least a few more years) and I'd really like to use an AR engine as the starting point since it comes with good heads. I was looking online and found 6AR cranks, which if they're a direct fit would give 2.19L and 1.83 rod:stroke ratio (greater than the Honda F20C :) ) on stock length rods, and if lengthening the rods further to keep the deck height the same, it'll be 1.9. Compared to an 8000rpm 2AR, peak piston acceleration is up 8%, peak piston speed is equal at about 9200rpm. Is there anything that would make 9000+ rpm prohibitively difficult? Would the OEM ECU be able to run the engine?

The thing that doesn't feel quite right about this idea is that I'm guessing you can't take anything remotely close to 6mm off the deck height to shorten the engine, and between the crank and any other machining that can be done the engine would only lose maybe 10lbs while not making more power... Do you think all these electronics would work for a 2ZR-FE swap?
 

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I think 2020 might be the year where it takes off. Two days ago there's a guy that showed me a picture of his engine installed. He's had parts for 6 months so that's pretty standard fare for swap speed but yesterday i got a message from someone that got their car running. It took them 8 weeks to from teardown to running car with a 2ar-fe including holiday family commitments and a job. Then there's also mschol17 on the forum here that did the swap in 14 days. PhatTires got his swap done relatively quick (a couple months) despite taking several breaks in between.

I think as soon as people realize that this setup is so comprehensive that even people that have never done a swap before can do it without risking joining the jackstand club for more than a couple weeks (or a couple months at worse). And they also realize that the ~$5k cost estimate really is all-in with every last part purchased there should be some forward momentum.

As for your 9000RPM thought, there's no need at all to destroke the engine. Papadakis was running 9000RPM on the stock 1AR-FE crankshaft with stock main caps and enough boost to hit 800rwhp. The rpm limitation on this engine is not at the crank at all. There's a few valvetrain issues that Papadakis solved with big money solutions but I'm working on a 2ar-fe build-up that should be safe to 9000RPM, in fact there's a new youtube video about it that should be released today or tomorrow (shameless plug, subscribe!. The first video is here:
and i'm currently finishing up the editing on the next one.)

The stock ECU's internals define lots of 8-bit tables as RPM*50 so you won't be able to have the timing and fuel tables extend beyond 12750RPM with the stock ECU. I haven't been beyond 8000RPM with it yet but i expect that 9000 and 10000 should be more than doable with the stock ECU. I will be using a Haltech for the initial tuning of my new engine but my intention is to then transfer the tune to the stock ECU and run it with the stock ECU and 545cc injectors. That last bit will really be where the stock ECU's limit will be. Those 545cc injectors will be able to be made to flow 630cc by changing the regulator to 4 bar instead of 3 bar fuel pressure but that's only enough fuel for about ~400, maybe 425rwhp. Beyond that, i need to be able to figure out a bunch more about the stock ECU because aftermarket injectors have characteristics that are different enough that things like the wallwetting calculations and others will be too far off to run optimally through rapid transitions.

I'm not sure why you'd want to, but taking 6mm off the block would throw way too much off. I'm sure someone could do it but the top flange of the motor is only about 8mm thick so you'd even have to reinforce that otherwise your head gasket might not be able to get enough pressure to hold in the oil and water. Your timing chain has a good possibility of being way too long at that point also.

To give you a few more numbers around the deck height, the stock deck height is 240.8mm and the stock cylinder length is 149.6mm. Even the 105mm crank is not actually the limit of the stroker possibility of this block.

Yes, the 2ZR would fit just fine with this kit (minus the engine mount of course). In fact, the head would clear the firewall by quite a bit more. here's an overlay of both motors: (note the 2zr is missing it's valve cover but the difference should still be obvious. They look to have the same deck height but the 2zrr's head is way shorter.
75030

and yes, the electronics i sell should be compatible with this. You'll just need to look at the pinouts and match the engine harness to it. Heck, they'll be compatible with the K-series. As long as it's an OBDII compatible ECU it'll work great.


I also have some pictures to show that I will post soon. Someone other than PhatTires used my parts to swap in a 2GR but he only cut out the absolutely necessary parts of the firewall to make it fit and it turns out that the pictures posted by PhatTires were deceptive. You need an access panel for the alternator with about 30mm extra clearance at the plug and nowhere else. with a bit of searching i bet we can find an alt that has the plug in a different direction and then you just need an access panel for serviceability. And the coils and everything actually just barely clear everything but you want an access panel for serviceability there also. The front VVT-I line needs about 10mm extra clearance and so does the oil filler. Filling the engine with oil would normally be ridiculously tricky but we live in a 3d printer age now. It should be relatively easy to 3d print a specially shaped funnel to solve that problem.

Compared to DDPR's four mounts and a crossmember for the 2GR that cost as much as everything i sell so all the other little problems are solved also, i suspect there's a chance this stuff will take off also. I probably need to make a right side mount for the 2GR but for now PhatTires actually has a few for sale that fit my kit also.

So hopefully 2020 is the year that the news of this stuff really starts to spread. I'm really excited with what I've done here and how much it should help people achieve their goal. Other than the 2zz this really is the cheapest swap you can do and beats many of the other options in several ways.
 

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The reason destroke came to my mind was because I would actually like 10000rpm, but I understand that might be too difficult to do (or not, who knows...). 9000 would not be a disappointment though :) If you're still doing the stroker pistons with the higher wrist pin, if that makes the rod e.g. 5mm longer, that's a pretty respectable rod/stroke of 1.65.

Good video. 70% higher spring rate is I think okay for 9000rpm, I think the stiffness needs to go up quadratically with the same cam profile (peak valve velocity goes up linearly with rpm, so the kinetic energy goes up quadratically, and the spring has to absorb the energy over the same distance so it needs quadratically more spring rate). Since you said the stock ones are fine at 7200rpm, 9000rpm is 25% faster so the spring rate needs to be 1.5625x (and you said it's 70% more). Since the spring is preloaded for higher seat pressure you actually get more wiggle room than that. sqrt(1.7) is about 1.3, so with the same cam profile you might actually be able to get away with 9400rpm, or even more as far as the spring goes.

For the rods what specs do you need to give them?

Thinking about it a bit more, maybe a 300hp 2AR beast would be good for an SW20 which would weigh about 2500lbs (IIRC getting it to 2400 is very easy).
 

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The next video in the series is actually right here. It just got posted:

The stock rod for the 2.5L and the 2.7L configuration is 157.5mm, it's a pretty long rod so the 2.7L still has a 1.5:1 rod ratio. There's more than enough room for a 162mm rod with a normal ringpack on the 2.5L 98mm stroke if 1.65 is the rod ratio you're looking for. But overall i don't think the bottom end is what's going to prevent you from going to 10,000RPM. I think the issues will be in the valvetrain. There's a good chance you'll probably need to venture into custom rockers to get there. I'm not sure I'll even get to 9000 with my current setup but there's only one way to find out.

I'm assuming you mean square when you say quadratically. I agree that kinetic energy is 1/2mv^2 but i still think that spring is excessive. I'm going to find out soon enough though because i picked a spring and they are here already and it has a seat pressure of 80lbs and open pressure of 160lbs. If you're right then i'll only have enough spring for about 8200RPM, if i'm right it'll be good to over the 9000rpm limit i'm aiming for. So that one will be really easy to determine when i get there.

For the rods it just comes down to understanding the balance between strength and weight because "strongest" is not always the best answer. But i do have rods now that should be good to that 9000RPM

A 300hp 2AR in an SW20 would be fun but at that power level i'd expect you'd be better off just staying with the 2GR. But that said, the 2AR leaves way more room in the engine bay for a turbo. I could certainly see making more power in the SW20 from a 2AR than a 2GR for a more reasonable cost. There's a really good chance I'll make a 2AR mount for the SW20 after this build is done if there's interest in it.
 

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... the kinetic energy goes up quadratically, and the spring has to absorb the energy over the same distance so it needs quadratically more spring rate...
The spring rate is not directly relevant. It does not matter how much energy the spring can store, as long as it is enough. The spring force as installed must go up quadratically, because the spring has to accelerate the valve to proportionally higher velocity in proportionally less time. In practice, a stronger spring will probably have a higher rate because of the physical confines of the head. However, if you imagine that you had room for an infinitely long spring, you could have a spring that supplied the necessary force with a zero spring rate.
 

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The spring rate is not directly relevant. It does not matter how much energy the spring can store, as long as it is enough. The spring force as installed must go up quadratically, because the spring has to accelerate the valve to proportionally higher velocity in proportionally less time. In practice, a stronger spring will probably have a higher rate because of the physical confines of the head. However, if you imagine that you had room for an infinitely long spring, you could have a spring that supplied the necessary force with a zero spring rate.
Energy over distance is force. You need the average spring force to quadratically increase, and since the spring you put in isn't going to be longer than the original, quadratic increase in spring rate is approximately what will get you there.

Since the seat pressure is also higher with these springs, the actual spring force delivered is greater than required to run at 9300rpm, which I pointed out. How much I don't know, since I don't know the mass of the valve.

The reasoning for 2AR over 2GR in an SW20 is that the 2AR would be able to fit the original cat for emissions inspections, it's 60lbs lighter with the balance shafts removed, the lower torque requires a less robust transmission (I know you said the EB60 works with the 2GR but the idea of doing that scares me), it would need less radiator and fuel, and it would cost a little bit less money to upgrade since there's less cylinders. If I'm not mistaken, between the transmission and engine it would be 100lbs lighter, and if I want to be really aggressive I could shrink the radiator. Hp/dollar isn't really a concern, I am more than happy to blow money getting an engine to spin faster just for its own sake.

Auxiliary reasons would be that a built 2GR making >350hp would be too much power for the street, it would guzzle a lot of gas, and the 2AR has a better oil system.
 

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The good news is the failure for getting the spring rate wrong on the valves is usually relatively benign on this motor. Usually you just spit out a rocker and it’s too big to fall down and make any damage. The valve stem cap can also fall and it can make it to the pan but it’s also unlikely to do anything beyond just sit down there. Given that I’m going to hold the course on the softer spring for now and see how it goes, I don’t want to work hard to make power and then waste it away on valvetrain friction. I can get you the weight of all the components but i don’t have an exact cam profile so i don’t have all the components of the mathematical equation. So I’m just taking an educated guess at this and we’ll see where it goes.

As for the weight savings in an SW20, installing a 2GR on the stock E153 saves 90-100lbs. I’ve measured this with a scale myself as a before and after. the exact savings depends on the exhaust but call it 90lbs savings to be conservative. Then, according to Toyota the 2AR weighs 65lbs less than the 2GR and let’s say another 5lbs saved on the exhaust because a 4 cyl is simpler than a 6 cyl. then there’s the trans, 74lbs vs 125lbs so a 50lb savings there again. So conservatively a 200lbs savings and possibly a 225lbs savings.

Yes, i do believe the stock 2ar-fe catalytic converter setup would fit in an SW20 with no modifications. it only barely does not fit in the spyder and that chassis has a significantly smaller engine bay forward of the engine.


I agree on the upgrade costs, it’s about 40-50% less costs to upgrade an I4 vs a V6 depending on exactly what you do.


In a spyder the math really works out for the 2AR-FE. In the SW20 it would certainly make a fun car, It makes power pretty much in line with the 1mz and 3vz which many people enjoy. the 290whp that the 2GR makes is a better match for that chassis but a high revving 2ar making the same power even at a somewhat lower torque would be just as fun.


I fully agree that 350whp 2gr is getting a bit much for the street. Many people for some reason think that anything under 500whp won’t be able to leave a stop sign at anything more than a crawl. By the same token i think that if i get 300whp out of this 2AR-FE it’ll be too much for the car.

I’m trying to hit that number to make people more interested in the engine, not because i think it needs it. at 205whp it’s an absolute blast to drive, at 250whp it’ll start getting excessive i think. This car weighs nothing, it’s a go-kart. But trying to convince people that they don't need 1100hp in a street car is a lost cause.
 

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Oh, I missed the part about 80lbs seat pressure softer spring. What's the stock seat pressure?

You were calculating 8200 based on the stock rev limit right? If you eat into the margin of safety (you were revving it to 7200 already right), then that gets you a bit more (like 8500rpm), and any increase in seat pressure buys you a little bit more, and any reduction in the max ramp rate buys you a bit more too, so you might make it to 9000rpm with them, since you only need 10% more spring pressure/ramp rate to get there. If the new springs are 160lbs at max lift then less than 16lbs more seat pressure over stock should get you to 9000rpm I think.
 

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the stock seat pressure is 74lbs but the open and close part of the ramp is exactly the same as stock so 80lbs will be enough there. Until you start putting a bunch of backpressure from a turbo you don't need to really touch the close pressure.

stock open pressure is 125lbs, the spring i'm going with will have 167lbs at open (though that will be at 10.9mm instead of 9.7mm)
 
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