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Discussion Starter #1,362
I'm sorry, that's one of the disadvantages of not doing my own production. It gives me access to people that have way more knowledge in making parts than i ever will but it also means on a part like this i have to schedule with a tool & die shop, a casting shop and a machining shop.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,364
Cast parts is to keep the price down. I could get that just straight up machined but it would cost about 3x the price because of the complex shape here. I could make a much simpler part from bent sheetmetal for this but there's no way to keep the clearances as tight as they are so it would require firewall modifications or crossmember modifications.
 

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I'd rather wait a wee bit and get something that's right
I've come from a background of building some odd cars and I'm just happy there's even an option or someone choosing to make parts for such a niche application never mind decent ones.

Speaking of citting firewall. In your how to vids it shows you making a small clearance for the rocker cover how necessary is this. Read a few 2ar swap things and noone else has mentioned doing this.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,366
Yes, There's a small clearance for the alternator plug and a bit for the top of the engine. This was a compromise to keep the engine as high as possible in the engine bay but it's only about 10mm and the metal there is very thin so it does not take much to rework it. If you take a small plastic body hammer and make a ton of little hits instead of a few heavy hits you'll avoid damaging any paint.

The one for the alternator plug will stress the wires if you don't do it but will likely be fine. The one for the top of the engine absolutely has to be done. You can try the fitment without first to mark exactly where you need more precisely.
 

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I was curious if you had a possible template of the area at the top that will need to be modified? Even if it is a paper one that comes with the kit at least we will not have to continue test fitting it for clearance multiple times.
 

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I was curious if you had a possible template of the area at the top that will need to be modified? Even if it is a paper one that comes with the kit at least we will not have to continue test fitting it for clearance multiple times.
I don't think a template is really necessary ...pics and dimensions .

page 3 post # 44
2AR-FE Swap
 

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Discussion Starter #1,370
I was curious if you had a possible template of the area at the top that will need to be modified? Even if it is a paper one that comes with the kit at least we will not have to continue test fitting it for clearance multiple times.
I was just suggesting the test fit approach since it sounded like he was trying to absolutely minimize the area that had to be reworked.

look at this video, starting at 45 seconds in for all the instructions:

and make sure you actually watch for the picture insert at 1:15 because the chassis shown in the video was the one i developed on and has a way bigger space there than is actually necessary.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,372
Any update on how the A/C mounting bracket and coolant outlet are going?
Pre-production samples should be here before the end of the month at the latest, I'll be posting pictures as soon as I have them.


I'm also really looking forward to these.
 

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By the way, while waiting for these parts i've still been playing with the 2AR-FE powered Spyder. We actually raced it at IMS last weekend (10hrs Saturday and 10hrs on Sunday). On Saturday we even put a pro in the car for an hour but we lost that race because of a mechanical. On Sunday we actually still had a few minor issues (lost a sway bar, wore out a front left tire, and melted down a left outer CV) but we won our class!!! I was the driver that crossed the checkered at the end of the day also. it felt so awesome to take a win at IMS!

Here's a video with the wrap up of the weekend:

And here's a video of a few laps with Ryan Lewis (LMP2 driver) behind the wheel:

2 minutes flat around IMS is a pretty damn good time, this thing really rips.
 

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hmmm how does a swaybar get lost? :D

I'm not sure if it's been mentioned but what's your oil cooler setup like for that motor to do 20hrs of abuse and countless hours you've already done?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,375
The swaybar is still on the car but the bushing on the right side left and so did the nut connecting the sway bar to the sway bar link on the right side. It's likely from the super nasty curbs at IMS vibrating it lose, i'll be installing safety wire on there in the future to hold all of those things in place.

I'm just running the optional stock oil cooler, it bolts right to the water pump and has no hoses, just a heat exchanger so there's nothing to fail and it does a great job of cooling the oil. I also run 5W20, nothing stupid thick so it gets a bunch of extra friction and build extra heat. We do run Klotz oil which they absolutely pack with ZDDP additive.

We did get somewhere between 30,000 and 35,000 on the first motor before i replaced it. The rear main had failed at that point but upon disassembly the forward thrust bearing was also showing significant wear from probably damn near 100,000 high RPM shifts. Other than that there was no issues at all. I'll have to get the vin off my current block and get an idea of the mileage on it. I suspect it's a high mileage (120k probably) block and i just threw plugs and it, fresh oil and filter and i'm beating it up.

These motors are really quite durable and if you ever do get them to fail, they are $300 at most and i've gotten a few for way less money than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,376
Well let's say i've learned a hell of a lot with stainless steel casting in the last little bit of time. The parts are now on their way but this isn't the final design look, right now there's too much machining on the cast part. I called out the important parts to machine but they were concerned about clearances everywhere so they pretty much fully machined the part after the casting.

It's in transit right now and i'll have it by the end of the week. I'll test fit it and report back as soon as i can. meanwhile, here are some pictures to wet your appetite:

78600

78601


The final part will not be fully machined like the one on the right.
 

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I need to do more proper testing but the part came in and i had a minute at lunch time:

78654


Cursory view shows that everything is good to go and no A/C line modifications will be needed. More details to follow as i have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,379
It is not touching, that was the whole goal of this :)

The clearance is about 2mm all around on my particular setup which means on some setup the line may need to be tweaked slightly either because it got bent while hanging from the line in the past or because Toyota's precision on making these lines isn't perfect (because it does not need to be) but i would expect that most people will be able to use it as-is and some people will need to gently apply some force to curve the first bent just a bit more.

It would have been nicer to keep even more clearance of course but this motor is much bigger than the 1zz so we've got to make concessions in some spots
 

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I was just suggesting the test fit approach since it sounded like he was trying to absolutely minimize the area that had to be reworked.

look at this video, starting at 45 seconds in for all the instructions:

and make sure you actually watch for the picture insert at 1:15 because the chassis shown in the video was the one i developed on and has a way bigger space there than is actually necessary.
Gouky - I realized that I will have the Hard Dog double-diagonal roll-bar where a backing plate bolts directly in this area (not sure exactly the measurements - will have to validate though) but any of your customers succeed in this 2AR swap without interfering with the Hard Dog roll bar backing plate?
 
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