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Discussion Starter #1,381
I don't think anyone that has installed this has one of those but i searched for a picture and found this:
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Assuming that's what you're talking about I'm quite certain you won't have any interference issues. The alternator is on the right side of the rib to the right of the mounting plate on the view above.

The best picture i have without going outside to take another one is this:


You should be fine as far as that goes.

On a side note though, the sheetmetal in that area is measures 0.040" thick with the paint but keep in mind the paint is roughly .005" on each side. That panel is so thin that the paint on both side adds up to 25% of that panel's thickness. I would avoid using that panel for anything structural.
 

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Thanks for the quick response.
Agreed with the firewall thickness in this area but that is the way the Hard Dog back plate is designed (even though there is a thick plate that is squeezed behind the back plate...

Based on your engine pic, it seems that it should not be an issue...Pheww!
 

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I am probably going to get a custom roll bar that ties into the strut towers on both sides. Looks like there is plenty of room on the passenger side but the driver side is going to require some creativity.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,384
I am probably going to get a custom roll bar that ties into the strut towers on both sides. Looks like there is plenty of room on the passenger side but the driver side is going to require some creativity.
I just tied the roll cage into the major crossmember that runs above the engine. That area is actually a really strong section of the car. The only annoyance is that there's a bunch of seam sealer to deal with before you can weld around there.
 

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So I had more time to bolt everything to the engine and i'm happy to report that everything fits!

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As you can see the A/C lines should be just fine but protecting them with a thermal sleeve would be a good idea. At least on the pressure side but while you're there why not do both?
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Clearance is about 1/8" or so but it's not hard to add another little bit by gently coaxing a bit more bend into it if necessary.
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And as you can see the extended waterneck makes it so the hose clamp can't interfere with the suction hose. The other one could be used but this just makes install a little bit easier.


So at this point I'm going to wrap up all the manufacturing stuff and send it off for a proper production run. Since no changes are needed to the tooling it should not take more than 30 days or so to get the first run in my hands.
 

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Sorry this is probably a stupid question, but is the compressor a variable displacement type? I was wondering if the pulley diameter matters at all, especially if you're running it at higher rpm than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,387
Sorry this is probably a stupid question, but is the compressor a variable displacement type? I was wondering if the pulley diameter matters at all, especially if you're running it at higher rpm than stock.
This is the stock Spyder compressor and i'm technically running it slightly higher RPM than stock but nowhere near as high as the 2zz swap folks and they don't seem to have any issues with it.
 

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I am seriously considering this swap. I can't find a transmission or wrecked scion manual for anything close to a reasonable price. Most places want $2100 for a 100K transmission when you can get brand new for $2450. I've bid on all of the manual transmission iaai cars in my area with no luck. I get upwards of $2.5k all-in and haven't won anything. So. it seems buying a new transmission and getting an ultra low mile engine might be the way to go. I'd be at 3600 and have a new transmission and an engine with < 10K miles. My question concerns the late model 2ar RAV4 engines. All of the really low mile engines are from a RAV4. Has this been done before? Are there any internal/external differences? I realize I will need a scion engine harness but other than that any differences that anybody knows about?
 

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Discussion Starter #1,389
Yeah, COVID has really made project car parts harder to get.

There are no differences to the rav4 engine as far as i know. and the Scion harness can be from an auto so it should be easy to get.
 

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I have an engine picked up, all of the swap parts in the shopping cart and was about to pull the trigger on a new transmission. Something was bothering me, so I went and looked more closely at the clutch setup. It looks like an internal slave cylinder and throw out bearing with a bunch of plumbing on the outside. I'm guessing that, in addition to the transmission, I would need to individually buy from the dealer all of the clutch hydraulic bits. It looks like that will add another 400 or so to the cost of the transmission. Is this correct or does the transmission assembly come with these?
 

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I have an engine picked up, all of the swap parts in the shopping cart and was about to pull the trigger on a new transmission. Something was bothering me, so I went and looked more closely at the clutch setup. It looks like an internal slave cylinder and throw out bearing with a bunch of plumbing on the outside. I'm guessing that, in addition to the transmission, I would need to individually buy from the dealer all of the clutch hydraulic bits. It looks like that will add another 350 or so to the cost of the transmission. Is this correct or does the transmission assembly come with these?
The stuff on the outside is not strictly necessary, it's a hydraulic accumulator and a clutch dump prevention valve to just modify how the clutch feels. I have run with and without it, i actually prefer to have it on there than not.

Also, the parts catalog picture looks like the stuff isn't on there:
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Marc, I think he is asking if the throw out bearing/slave cylinder part comes with the transmission if you buy a brand new one from Toyota.
 

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Marc, I think he is asking if the throw out bearing/slave cylinder part comes with the transmission if you buy a brand new one from Toyota.
I assumed I would need a new slave/throw out bearing. Even used it might be prudent. I was asking about the plumbing and I think Marc is right, the bleeder and few bits will also need to be purchased. The accumulator is optional. I will spend a few days calling around to see if I can find a transmission under 1500.
 

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A big thank you to Marc for putting this kit together. I pulled the trigger on a used eb60 and ordered everything this evening. I'll start a build thread just to prove that even a duffer can do it. I'm most nervous about the fuel line, the clutch line and the wiring harness. I've read thru this thread several times, watched the videos endlessly. So I'm sure I'll find all the info in the documentation. Fingers crossed!
 

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You will love it.
Couple of things to note from my experience.
If it’s a tC transmission make sure you replace the bearing in the transmission. Check out my thread on Mr2-Spyder.com for how to do it. There is also a thread for adding cruise control.
The worst part of the swap is getting the silicon hose installed :)
Install the AC before you put the engine in, or you get to reconnect the silicon hose again.
 

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Can you reuse the existing lines or do you also need pre 2003 lines?
I reused my lines. You probably want to put some heat wrap around them anyway.
I was thinking about it, and if you are able to measure and cut the silicon hose, and attach it to the water neck, you should be able to put the engine in place with the AC installed and the hoses connected to the compressor.
If you don’t install the silicon hose beforehand, it is going to be very difficult to install if the compressor is there already. You could leave the compressor off and install it with the engine in place, which is what I did. You will need to only have the side motor mounts connected so you can tilt the engine forward to make enough room to clear the frame rail.
 

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Discussion Starter #1,400
Both the early and late lines are the same so there's no reason to switch them out.

For installation I suggest installing the motor without the compressor so the coolant line can be aligned and the thermostat side clip can be installed. then you can rock the bottom of the motor backwards (a ratcheting strap can hold it easily) and install the compressor with the lines attached to the compressor already. The motor can then be rotated back to the proper position and the coolant hose can be connected on the chassis side and the front motor mount bolt can be installed.

It is pretty tight in there, i would expect to swear a bit when doing the installation but it's still nothing compared to the SW20's hose from hell.
 
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