[Sammy Sandbag]

Well my paid vacation to lovely Afghanistan is finally over, and I'm back in Texas! Now I just need to finish up the Spyder project, which is nearly complete other than breaking in a new short block and getting it tuned. I want to take the car down to the guys as DDPR, which is about a 2.5 hour drive away. I have an 18' aluminum car hauler, which has the normal four-point tie down rings.

I'm looking for advice from anyone with experience in moving a Spyder around on a car hauler (other than a Uhaul with the tire tie-downs.) Does the Spyder have chassis tie-down points, the type for using T or J hooks? I don't like the prospect of just wrapping ratchet straps around suspension components, I'm looking for the most secure and factory-like method of tying it down. I know many manufacturers provide a means for this, as they have to be secured in transit to the dealer, sometimes they have bulletins or specific instructions per model on how to do this. Anyone seen this for the Spyder?

Thanks in advance, and good to be back in the States!

 

[TheWiredPenguin]

You could screw in the tow hook and use tie down straps around the body of the wheels (I've done that with bikes). I can't think of two many places I'd be comfortable hooking a chain to unless you want to take the bumpers off. On the high side of things it's a really light car and shouldn't take to much to hold it down.

 

[Uncle Mush]

. . . can't help you with the tie-down question . . . just wanted to say, "welcome home."

 

[greenmica]

You can buy clusters they sell them were you buy trailer parts ,the body has tie down points you hook them, or I see a lot of guys that run straps through the wheels

 

[nrojas]

Welcome home!

 

[Rampage]

Welcome back home and thanks for the time you spent over there.

 

[silversprint]

I run the straps through the wheels.

 

[glenonoka]

400 miles. Rear tires held only. Thin fiber board to prevent the window from blowing out.

 

[GuySmily]

You should be able to see them from under the car. In the front, the tie down loops are by the sway bar brackets. I forget where they are in the back though.

Thank you for your service, btw.

 

[lexus005]

DDPR has their own enclosed trailer...they might be willing to help transport.

 

[DDPR]

Well my paid vacation to lovely Afghanistan is finally over, and I'm back in Texas! Now I just need to finish up the Spyder project, which is nearly complete other than breaking in a new short block and getting it tuned. I want to take the car down to the guys as DDPR, which is about a 2.5 hour drive away. I have an 18' aluminum car hauler, which has the normal four-point tie down rings.

I'm looking for advice from anyone with experience in moving a Spyder around on a car hauler (other than a Uhaul with the tire tie-downs.) Does the Spyder have chassis tie-down points, the type for using T or J hooks? I don't like the prospect of just wrapping ratchet straps around suspension components, I'm looking for the most secure and factory-like method of tying it down. I know many manufacturers provide a means for this, as they have to be secured in transit to the dealer, sometimes they have bulletins or specific instructions per model on how to do this. Anyone seen this for the Spyder?

Thanks in advance, and good to be back in the States!

Padded tie downs through the spokes of your rims is your best bet - that way you are pulling down on the tire itself - the body is free to bounce but the wheels stay put. If you want call me later on my cell (832) 421-7422 and I will snap some pics to show you what I mean.

 

[DDPR]

DDPR has their own enclosed trailer...they might be willing to help transport.

We do and we can.

Out towing rates are very inexpensive for an enclosed single car haul as well - $40 for 1st 10 miles and $2 / mile after that. This is a one way charge, from the point of origin to us. There is no charge from us to you (well there is, but its rolled into that $2 / mile - that pays our gas, maintenance, wear and tear and some money for the driver) If the trip is long enough that overnight stay is required, additional fees may apply.

 

[DDPR]

You should be able to see them from under the car. In the front, the tie down loops are by the sway bar brackets. I forget where they are in the back though.

Thank you for your service, btw.

The back and front both have those holes in the bumper that you can therad those huge threaded eye loops into.

But the wheel itself is a much more secure tir down point. Failing the wheel itself, lower control arm is next best.

 

[nocoolname]

Like Guysmiley said, there are some front loops you can use. IIRC there isn't anything on the rear though.

When I've hauled my spyder I ran a strap through each wheel though as it was the easiest and kept it secure for a 2 hour drive. Load it facing forward, or if you load it backwards, do like Glenonoka, and do something to keep wind off the back glass of the soft top.

Thanks for your service, and glad to hear you made it back.

 

[Sammy Sandbag]

Thanks for all the suggestions everyone, and the warm welcome back.

The chassis mounting points I was talking about are normally located with two in the front and two in the back, just basically an oblong hole on the bottom of the car that a J or T hook goes in and then run an X with the tie down straps at the front and rear to the four tie-down points.

Here's the hooks I'm talking about:

Of course this means cinching the chassis down on the suspension, securing it to the trailer. I've also heard some folks say it's better to secure the car at the wheels/tires, so that its suspension can work and soak up some bumps. I've used the Uhaul style trailers several times, for drives half way across the country. It worked well, but the back end (which is secured) tends to hop around.

I would just go look under the car to see if these holes are there, but it's so crammed into a storage unit that I'd never be able to get under it. I've found the official trailering instructions for my BMW, and was hoping there would be something similar out there from Toyota. I still have some time before I'll make the trip, which is why I'm asking now should I need to order anything special. I know I'll need some ratchet straps (ones specifically for car hauling, I have plenty of the general use type.)

 

[e00008]

Do you have a source for these?

Bruce

 

[Sammy Sandbag]

I've seen them on almost ever trailer supply store, called t-hooks.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/89/Towing

You can also get these, which have multiple types on one ring:

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/87/Towing

 

[nocoolname]

I forgot to add to my post, that if you run a strap through the wheels and are worried about it making a mark on the finish, get a sheepskin seat belt pad at the local autozone and slip the strap through it. The pad will ride on the wheel and protect the finish.

 

[OldMan]

The chassis mounting points I was talking about are normally located with two in the front and two in the back, just basically an oblong hole on the bottom of the car that a J or T hook goes in and then run an X with the tie down straps at the front and rear to the four tie-down points.

There are two such holes in the main frame rails, just ahead of the rear axles. They are about 2"x4" and should have a rubber plug in them. I'm not sure the holes are for securing the car during shipment, but I found the rubber plugs in a sealed plastic bag in the glovebox, so I assume they were be be installed by the dealer upon final delivery. That suggests that the holes are indeed tie-down points.

I've never looked for similar holes in the front.

 

[greenmica]

I've seen them on almost ever trailer supply store, called t-hooks.

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/89/Towing

You can also get these, which have multiple types on one ring:

http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/product/87/Towing

The J hook part no.340002 works better