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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I figured I'd follow suit with the str build threads considering the minimal r&d on our cars when compared to the miatas and s2000s. I am a co-owner of the car with user: Trashboat. (It was actually a huge coincidence that we have nearly identical usernames.. We had a good laugh when we found out)

Current setup:

Wheels/Tires:

Front - 15x9 225/45/15 Rival-s
Rear - 17x9 245/45/17 Rival-s as well as 15x9 225/45/15 Rival-s

Suspension:

Koni 8611s in custom housings
F - 600 lb springs
R- 400 lb springs

No swaybars

Power:

PPE Intake
PPE Full exhaust
Camcon Ti - Dyno tuned (new engine does not yet have dyno tune)
Greddy eManage Ultimate - Not yet tuned (settings set to 0)

Alignement/Corner Balance:

Camber Front/Rear: -3.6/-3.5
Toe Front/Rear: 1/16" toe out/1/16" toe in
Corner balance: 49.9% cross weight

Other:

Sparco sprint race seat mounted on sparco universal sliders (very low seating position)




The custom housings are 2" OD made from AISI 1026 steel:


 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Fitment of upper spring perch with camber plates and supplied spacers:


Torrington bearings for all 4 springs:



And the current mock-up where I stand now:


Springs are Eibach Race Springs 600 lb front, 400 lb rear, no sways.

I am trying to go about re-using the brackets/ears (no idea what the proper term is for these) for mounting the struts to the hub from the stock spyder housings but I am not sure how successful this will be. I have started cutting off one fo the front brackets but the rears seem like they might be near impossible to re-use. I wonder if anyone has done this in the past as I haven't been able to find much information on it.

The alternative would be creating custom brackets and a jig to make sure they are welded on perfectly without screwing with geometry.


As for other upgrades we are almost ready to buy a PPE intake and a full PPE exhaust: 4-1 headers, HFC downpipe (new design that sits up higher in the diaper), and new single outlet PPE muffler/tailpipe. We would like to go to common route as well with the Camcon Ti and Greddy eManage Ultimate and boomslang harness so we are currently looking for those used.

I will continue to update this thread as we progress. The plan is to have at the very least the suspension wheels and tires all ready to go by May. It would be nice to have the full exhaust as well but we would need the ecus to make that worth the effort so that might just wait until we have it all at once before installing.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
which year car are you using?

the first thing i did to my car was an LSD - probably something you will want soon.
It's a 2001 with about 50,000 miles on it. Already had the output shaft bearing replaced under warranty and the clutch replaced too. It was purchased last summer.

For LSD we were looking into Kaaz bc of the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
How are the coilover sleeves staying put at this point in your pic?
The coilovers are laying on their side so the sleeves are just on the housings no being fixed with anything.

But the small piece of metal you see underneath the sleeves will be welded to the housing and they will rest on that. I also need to get some o-rings for between the sleeves and the housings to make the fit a little more snug and eliminate rattling.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I mean they are a little heavier than stock but it's obvious that this will be the case due to stronger and heavier springs and struts. So I don't really see what you are getting at.

I'm not going to break my bank to get inverted monotubes and aluminum housings if that is what you are suggesting.
 

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I mean they are a little heavier than stock but it's obvious that this will be the case due to stronger and heavier springs and struts. So I don't really see what you are getting at.

I'm not going to break my bank to get inverted monotubes and aluminum housings if that is what you are suggesting.
wasn't really suggesting anything, just asking. with the low power and torque rating on these cars, reduction of rotational mass and unsprung weight is vital to getting the most power out of them. What you are building LOOKS fantastic. My question was simply how heavy are they, because they look beefier than what I have on my off-road vehicles. When I build things I always tend to OVER BUILD. with out being there to measure, weigh, or see what exactly you are dealing with, all I can do is guess at what is really going on in your shop. I'm still a noob in the spyder world, so take anything I say with a grain of salt.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
wasn't really suggesting anything, just asking. with the low power and torque rating on these cars, reduction of rotational mass and unsprung weight is vital to getting the most power out of them. What you are building LOOKS fantastic. My question was simply how heavy are they, because they look beefier than what I have on my off-road vehicles. When I build things I always tend to OVER BUILD. with out being there to measure, weigh, or see what exactly you are dealing with, all I can do is guess at what is really going on in your shop. I'm still a noob in the spyder world, so take anything I say with a grain of salt.
Gotcha, well based on reading up on all the successful builds for the str autox class I determined that going with the Koni 8611s and 600/400 lb springs was a very successful route. They will definitely result in some weight gain because of the heavier springs and struts.

It's simply some weight I'm willing to sacrifice.
 

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Gotcha, well based on reading up on all the successful builds for the str autox class I determined that going with the Koni 8611s and 600/400 lb springs was a very successful route. They will definitely result in some weight gain because of the heavier springs and struts.

It's simply some weight I'm willing to sacrifice.
that's actually a good answer. have you considered making the sleeves of aluminum over steel? and maybe thinner walls? the perches for the hub should be the only stressed part of the assembly. I also wonder about cooling. with the shock being completely encased that way, will they be able to cool properly? Steel retains heat much longer than Aluminum does also. but maybe machine in some heat sinks or slot them? down side is it leave openings for dirt and water.

just thinking out loud.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
that's actually a good answer. have you considered making the sleeves of aluminum over steel? and maybe thinner walls? the perches for the hub should be the only stressed part of the assembly. I also wonder about cooling. with the shock being completely encased that way, will they be able to cool properly? Steel retains heat much longer than Aluminum does also. but maybe machine in some heat sinks or slot them? down side is it leave openings for dirt and water.

just thinking out loud.
They are all good thoughts which I have considered myself as well.

I won't be doing aluminum because I don't have a TIG welder and it would again raise the price. The struts are inserts so they inherently belong inside of a designated housing. I will be applying grease on the outside of the struts before installing then to help conduct heat away towards the housings however no one has reported any issues of overheating during an autocross event (or even on track IIRC).

As it stands the walls are currently relatively thin but I'm not sure on the exact numbers. Also both spring perches are minimalistic and made of aluminum as well as the coilovers sleeves.

I don't think the design is over-engineered at the moment. But again I'm only basing this off of other board members experience and my engineering knowledge. So the ultimate test will be out on course this season.
 

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They are all good thoughts which I have considered myself as well.

I won't be doing aluminum because I don't have a TIG welder and it would again raise the price. The struts are inserts so they inherently belong inside of a designated housing. I will be applying grease on the outside of the struts before installing then to help conduct heat away towards the housings however no one has reported any issues of overheating during an autocross event (or even on track IIRC).

As it stands the walls are currently relatively thin but I'm not sure on the exact numbers. Also both spring perches are minimalistic and made of aluminum as well as the coilovers sleeves.

I don't think the design is over-engineered at the moment. But again I'm only basing this off of other board members experience and my engineering knowledge. So the ultimate test will be out on course this season.
right on, i'll be watching this with great interest. keep up the good work. I'll be curious to see the final results and maybe some long term feedback on the build.
 
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