[LMC]

I have a 2004 mr2 6spd smt with 80k miles and not long ago it stopped moving! The green neutral light is flashing, the smt light is on, and it is beeping. I can seemingly put it into 1, 2, and R but the car doesn't move whatsoever so I'm lead to believe it's stuck in neutral. Here's what I've done so far I have flushed the smt fluid and gear oil, I cleaned off the input shaft speed sensor, and I replaced the clutch with monkey wrenches smt specific clutch kit. PLEASE HELP

 

[cyclehead]

Download a copy of techstream. Read the TCU codes. Then we can help more. SMT Links

 

[suoiruc]

Codes are good and useful to have.
Alongside retrieving codes: check for fluid (brake) on position sensors, check that the actuator link bolt hasn’t sheared, and monitor pump operation. HPU/GSA- State of the units
Are the current symptoms identical to the ones before clutch replacement?
Are you getting gear indicator lights when shifting into 1st, 2nd, and reverse gears?

 

[LMC]

I have the software ready and the J2534 techstrem cable I ordered comes in today so I will be able to pull the codes when that gets here but until then here are my findings.

I can't hear the pump operation when the car is on but it's a 2004 with just over 80k miles and it was 64 degrees outside when it ran for 24 seconds in the morning.
The clutch disengages while it's neutral but won't disengage in R, 1, or 2.
The position sensors sure enough have SMT fluid leaking right onto them and one of them didn't even have a rubber gasket!
The actuator link looks normal to me so that's good but I'm new to this so what do I know
So now I'm assuming that I need to reseal the GSA and potentially the HPU, and replace those position sensors if they aren't salvageable
But what are everyone's thoughts?

 

[triz]

Definitely a leaky GSA. Most of the time the sensors are salvageable. But you'll have to test them to be sure. Paul's pencil fix will also usually bring one back to life after its been exposed if its not severely corroded. See what the codes tell you.

 

[cyclehead]

Definitely try to save the position sensors if they test bad. They’re not hard to disassemble and see what’s going on.

 

[suoiruc]

Yep, fix the leak at GSA and clean/replace clutch and shift sensors. May or may not need a relearn through Techstream.
Actually, the shift sensor is probably still good since you’re still picking up the gears.

 

[suoiruc]

The actuator link looks normal to me so that's good but I'm new to this so what do I know
But what are everyone's thoughts?
View attachment 95954 View attachment 95955 View attachment 95956 View attachment 95957
View attachment 95958 View attachment 95959 View attachment 95960

Does it look like this? Do you see this bolt head?

I’m only curious because your first post seemed to indicate the bolt had sheared, but now the neutral light isn’t flashing (or is it?) since a picture caught it on and not when it was off?
That’s why I asked those two previous questions.

 

[LMC]

Does it look like this? Do you see this bolt head? View attachment 95963
I’m only curious because your first post seemed to indicate the bolt had sheared, but now the neutral light isn’t flashing (or is it?) since a picture caught it on and not when it was off?
That’s why I asked those two previous questions.

The light is flashing! It took me a minute to find it because it was hidden under a plastic covering but it was a little loose so I just finger tightened it

 

[LMC]

Definitely a leaky GSA. Most of the time the sensors are salvageable. But you'll have to test them to be sure. Paul's pencil fix will also usually bring one back to life after its been exposed if its not severely corroded. See what the codes tell you.

So this is super weird but there are NO CODES! I’m not sure if I’m just pulling it up wrong or something but there’s nothing there

 

[suoiruc]

The light is flashing! It took me a minute to find it because it was hidden under a plastic covering but it was a little loose so I just finger tightened it
View attachment 95964 View attachment 95965 View attachment 95966

That bolt should be super tight for a bolt of that size! IIRC, it should be 18 ftlbs. If it’s loose, it’ll shear! Maybe when the clutch replacement was done, the GSA was removed and that bolt wasn’t properly torque?
Also, after the clutch replacement, the TCU will need to relearn the friction point of the clutch.

 

[suoiruc]

So this is super weird but there are NO CODES! I’m not sure if I’m just pulling it up wrong or something but there’s nothing there View attachment 95968

Was the battery disconnected? Disconnecting the battery will erase the codes.

 

[suoiruc]

It’s a bit weird that you’re able to start the car without a steady green neutral light. Does it only start flashing after a gear is selected?
My best guess is that the shift sensor is sketchy from brake fluid ingress and or the loose actuator link bolt causing the light to flash and the original problem of the car not moving is the clutch sensor from fluid contamination. Another possibility for the flashing light is if the neutral switch is stuck closed when shifting to a gear but I’ve never seen that happen. To ask the question in another way, do you have a steady neutral light to start the car?

 

[LMC]

It’s a bit weird that you’re able to start the car without a steady green neutral light. Does it only start flashing after a gear is selected?
My best guess is that the shift sensor is sketchy from brake fluid ingress and or the loose actuator link bolt causing the light to flash and the original problem of the car not moving is the clutch sensor from fluid contamination. Another possibility for the flashing light is if the neutral switch is stuck closed when shifting to a gear but I’ve never seen that happen. To ask the question in another way, do you have a steady neutral light to start the car?

The neutral light used to be solid but then instantly starts flashing as the engine started, but after tightening that bolt down to 18 ftlbs the light stopped flashing and the beeping seemingly stopped as well
So that leaves the leaking GSA and brake fluid sensors.
Thank you for telling me about that bolt because I would have never known!

 

[LMC]

Definitely try to save the position sensors if they test bad. They’re not hard to disassemble and see what’s going on.

I need to buy both a GSA and HPU reseal kit along with a GSA fixing tool if you would kindly email me @ [email protected]

Also, how effective do you think a custom position sensor gasket with a canopy to direct fluid from a leaky GSA would be in terms of preventative maintenance?

 

[cyclehead]

I need to buy both a GSA and HPU reseal kit along with a GSA fixing tool if you would kindly email me @ [email protected]

Also, how effective do you think a custom position sensor gasket with a canopy to direct fluid from a leaky GSA would be in terms of preventative maintenance?

Certainly worth a try! I’ve seen some very leaky GSA units continue to function well. And brake fluid is cheap, if a little messy under the car. Maybe a thick rubber (EPDM) gasket to replace the aluminum spacer? Or maybe pack an absorbent women’s product into the GSA to absorb leaky fluid, and change it periodically.

 

[bucketspyder]

LMC hey if you run into issues rebuilding your gsa look me up on FB i rebuild the units and they are tested for 2 wks - Thomas Levine

 

[Sprjac]

Certainly worth a try! I’ve seen some very leaky GSA units continue to function well. And brake fluid is cheap, if a little messy under the car. Maybe a thick rubber (EPDM) gasket to replace the aluminum spacer? Or maybe pack an absorbent women’s product into the GSA to absorb leaky fluid, and change it periodically.

Guys, I had a very wet sensor due to leaking GSA fluid and it did not seem to affect the sensor, those sensors are fairly tightly sealed, my problem was (is) a leaking GSA that shifted when cold, but stopped shifting as the fluid got hot and the liquid loss was greater due to lower viscosity. I got the very neat GSA kit from cyclehead, but have not worked on the car during the last 3 weeks, I am presently stuck at finding and removing the last bolt inside the GSA. Hope to give it a try again in a couple of weeks when the present emergency is resolved.

 

[cyclehead]

Is the last bolt the one inside the access window? Be careful with that one. 12mm head. Be sure to get square on the head so you don’t round off the flats. It should be very tight (18 ft lb!)

 

[Sprjac]

Is the last bolt the one inside the access window? Be careful with that one. 12mm head. Be sure to get square on the head so you don’t round off the flats. It should be very tight (18 ft lb!)

Yes, I got your instruction sheet and will look for the access plate first chance I get, right know busy looking for apartment for my son, real estate property here in Florida has exploded and rents have almost doubled, have 3 months to find a place. will let you know when I try again to reach that bolt.