[FormInFunction]

I haven't turbocharged the car so I'm useless there however if you need/want the pdf version of the manual give me a shout via PM.

 

[REVN MR2]

Took the fuel pump housing out, separated it in two, drilled into the top and tapped it to fit the 6an bulkhead fitting. It wasn’t easy tightening the nut since I couldn’t fit a socket down there so I spun it with a screw driver and when it got tight I twisted the top to secure it. I had to angle it to the right since it was pretty short but with a 6an elbow it came out where I wanted. Had to clearance the cover a little.

Also test fitted the heat exchanger. My exhaust manifold got lost in the mail so they’re sending another so I haven’t been able to fit much of the piping yet.

Got the water pumps setup and all the Intercooler piping where I want it.

 

[REVN MR2]

Ok finally found out from reading many posts that the vacuum source going into the manifold goes into this blue valve and needs to be intercepted before the valve.

I connected a new hose on the intake manifold and ran it to my vacuum manifold and ran a line going back into the blue valve. Then I connected my bov, fpr and the tube that used to go into the stock intake all into the vacuum manifold.

I finally got my exhaust manifold in the mail and I knew eBay manifolds were low quality but I didn’t think they’d be so bad that I’d have to port the opening and re-drill every single hole lol. Pretty lame but it was cheap and there really isn’t any other options for a 1zz td05 manifold. Unfortunately the manifold has a 45 degree angle to it not 90 so the oil lines won’t be perfectly up and down. I could clock the turbo but it is a serious job to do especially on such a rusty turbo. I fit the turbo and found I needed to cut a bit off the mr2 for it to clear. I went ahead and cut the whole bar out because it will be in the way of the exhaust as well.

 

[REVN MR2]

Alright hopefully someone will at least answer this. I keep reading how important it is to ground the wideband o2 sensor. Many say ground it to the block and others say it needs to be grounded to the same location as the ecu. I have no idea where the ecu is grounded or where on the block to ground it.

For a cleaner install I ordered a headlight relay with two power and two ground sources this way they are both grounded to the same location. I put one ground into the an2 port of the datalogit along with the yellow wire from the innovate controller into the an1 port. I ran the other power and ground from the relay into the power and ground of the controller.

Are these acceptable locations to ground the wideband?

I’ve got everything done except for the exhaust. I found a magnaflow 6 inch resonator that has v band flanges on it so that gets here on the 17th. I’ll be wrapping most of the exhaust with header wrap since it sits close to the heat exchanger. I’m still not exactly sure what to do with the o2 sensors, do I just need one of oem narrow band sensors and the wide band? The wideband only? All three? I swear I’m going to make a new thread and turn this into a turbo install walkthrough if nobody answers.

 

[Funnyman]

The simple way : you should weld the 2 O² narrow sensors after the turbo. Just don't weld them face each other. One O² sensor will read right, but the second will read a wrong exhaust flow causing CEL with a stock ECU. But it seem that you'will run with PFC so no CEL light in all case. The after cat O² sensor should be plugged. The Wideband should be weld before the catalityc converter.

You can't swap a O² narrow sensor by a wideband. It's not the same used and signal level. Again, forget the PFC for a E85 use.
Your car will run badly that PFC will not informing you. Simply because the PFC have basic engine security level.

The complex way : almost all the same. Just you can link the 2 O² narrow sensor that read the exhaust flow. PPE did this for his first generation of 4-1 header and sport cat (since PPE moddified it to keep both O² sensors). Use the research and you will find the picture of the diagram made by PPE.

Keep in mind that the engine will move front to back and side to side. Be sure to give some inch of space for each pieces.
The oil cooler is very close to the turbo and will minimise the benefit.

 

[REVN MR2]

The simple way : you should weld the 2 O² narrow sensors after the turbo. Just don't weld them face each other. One O² sensor will read right, but the second will read a wrong exhaust flow causing CEL with a stock ECU. But it seem that you'will run with PFC so no CEL light in all case. The after cat O² sensor should be plugged. The Wideband should be weld before the catalityc converter.

You can't swap a O² narrow sensor by a wideband. It's not the same used and signal level. Again, forget the PFC for a E85 use.
Your car will run badly that PFC will not informing you. Simply because the PFC have basic engine security level.

The complex way : almost all the same. Just you can link the 2 O² narrow sensor that read the exhaust flow. PPE did this for his first generation of 4-1 header and sport cat (since PPE moddified it to keep both O² sensors). Use the research and you will find the picture of the diagram made by PPE.

Keep in mind that the engine will move front to back and side to side. Be sure to give some inch of space for each pieces.
The oil cooler is very close to the turbo and will minimise the benefit.

Thank you for the great information!!! So it seems I’ll have to use all three o2 sensor bungs I have. 2 for the narrow bands and 1 for the wide band. I won’t be running any cats even though I do prefer them to dogs.

One of the o2 sensors is on the drivers side after the resonator and the other two are on the passenger side before it. Only thing is those two o2 sensors are directly right after the turbo and it is recommended to have the wideband 18-24 inches after the turbo. Hopefully that doesn’t cause any issues, the narrow band sensors were directly on the headers before so I can’t think it will cause too big of an issue..

My biggest issue with the oil cooler is the lines were a lot shorter than I expected and couldn’t put it where I wanted.. you’re absolutely right about where I initially had it, didn’t think about how close it would be to the turbo. I slid it down closer to the heat exchanger on the driver side. That should still allow the exhaust to come out above it. I’ll need to heat wrap the whole exhaust when the resonator comes in.

 

[REVN MR2]

Going to be starting it up soon, I don’t know if I should reset the pfc in order to do the idle learn if I already have a base map that I was planning on adjusting for my tune. I’ve noticed people changing the injector scaling for larger injectors but is that necessary if you do the idle learn? Or are you supposed to change that before you do the idle learn? If I reset and do the idle learn how do I get the base map back without it changing the idle?

 

[Funnyman]

If it's the STOCK base MAP in PFC (for a N/A 1zzfe), you have to tune in real time for not running lean. The idle learning procedure is theorically "out". If it's a TURBO base MAP, you have to load the MAP, then start the engine without using throttle : first 10min on idle > 10min followed with headlight/refroster turned ON > 10min followed with A/C turned ON. This is what I did when I had a PFC and FC Hako to swich tune map.
For the injector duty : Injector questions for PFC

 

[REVN MR2]

If it's the STOCK base MAP in PFC (for a N/A 1zzfe), you have to tune in real time for not running lean. The idle learning procedure is theorically "out". If it's a TURBO base MAP, you have to load the MAP, then start the engine without using throttle : first 10min on idle > 10min followed with headlight/refroster turned ON > 10min followed with A/C turned ON. This is what I did when I had a PFC and FC Hako to swich tune map.
For the injector duty : Injector questions for PFC

So for the turbo base map I just load it and start it so I don’t have to reset it, or I reset it and then load the map and start the idle learn?

 

[Funnyman]

Yes, you load the TURBO base MAP into PFC, then you start the idle learning process. You only need to reset (deleate then reload the MAP tune) when the engine start to acte strangly or have high idle (happend to me one time). The engine will run back to normal. You have a Dattalogit, but do you have Copilot sofware to tune the MAP? Do not deleate the MAP if you don't have software to tune it.

 

[REVN MR2]

Alright so I came across an issue. Fuel is spraying out of the top of the fuel rail from the tiny block off but made for a pressure gauge and from underneath the fuel pressure regulator.. I tightened both as much as physically possible so I’m not sure why they are leaking. Was I supposed to use lock tight on the threads? I would think that would make it impossible to remove in the future. The block off bolt on the fpr came with a rubber o ring but maybe I need to buy more and put them on everything? I don’t understand how the an fittings could be leaking. Maybe too much pressure when I turn on the ignition? I’m still seeing 0 on the fpr gauge when I turn the ignition on.

I went back through my an fittings and realized I must’ve installed the wrong fitting underneath the fpr

I installed the longer fitting and even put an o ring on it and tightened it down and it made no difference. This fuel rail has given me the worst trouble, it’s pretty frustrating.

A trusted mechanic I know recommended that I use thread locker on the fuel rail bolts so I did and was able to tighten the bolt down that was leaking a little bit lower than before because of the lubrication. It still isn’t completely flat like the other bolt but it’s close and it seriously won’t go any tighter. I’m guessing when they made the fuel rail they didn’t do the greatest job tapping the threads.

I still don’t know what to do about the fpr but Im thinking about installing the shorter an fitting that has the curved indent with the o ring since it seemed like it went further in than the tall one that is flat on top.

Alright so this is funny but I didn’t completely tighten down the gauge on the fpr😂 it was leaking down on to the bottom fitting. I put thread locker on it and tightened it down completely and I’ll test if it still leaks tomorrow once the thread locker is dry. Fingers crossed😆

Still waiting on my resonator but it’s almost finished!

 

[REVN MR2]

Well the thread locker didn’t work. It’s still spraying out the top of the fuel rail. I even switched bolts when I put the thread locker on just in case there was a problem with the bolt. It’s impossible to tighten the bolt any more so I’m going to have to come up with something else.

Update: I went to 2 hardware stores and found a bolt the same thread and put an o ring on it. Finally fixed the problem only I can’t tighten the bolt as much as I would like since it starts to squeeze the o ring out from under the bolt but I turned the ignition on and am finally not getting and leaks and the fpr gauge says I have about 20 psi of pressure. I’ll have to adjust it once the car is idling,does anyone know what the pressure should be at idle? 35?

Second update: the curved o ring had ripped and was only holding 20 psi of pressure. It was still leaking a little so I went out and found some heavier duty squared off o rings and also put a second thin o ring on the outside of the first to reduce deformation and now I get almost 50 psi of pressure when I first turn on the ignition. 0 leaks so far, still can’t start it because fedex had a second delay-never use fedex if you can help it. I’ve always had so many issues with them

 

[dblotii]

Well the thread locker didn’t work. It’s still spraying out the top of the fuel rail. I even switched bolts when I put the thread locker on just in case there was a problem with the bolt. It’s impossible to tighten the bolt any more so I’m going to have to come up with something else.

This probably won't help in this instance, but to seal a threaded connection against high pressure gas or fluid, sue Loctite or Permatex PST, not just a threadlocker.

 

[Funkycheeze]

Even Teflon tape works well but that's for tapered threads like NPT. The O-ring AN fittings need to shoulder out to capture the O ring to prevent leaks you will never seal a straight thread with thread sealant.

 

[evilthorne]

You can use a BSPT o ring washer

but you need to figure out the correct thread for your fittings, they generally state it in the manual for the regulator.

But idle pressure is 45-50psi

 

[REVN MR2]

Ready to start it up! Before I start I adjusted the injectors to 30% since 252/850=.30 Is there anyone here who can explain copilot basics? I found out how to adjust the map by writing all but if someone could explain the auto tune feature it would be very helpful!!

Got done with the 30 minute idle learn progress! Going to drive an hour away and start logging to tune the afr.

 

[REVN MR2]

Cars been running great for a while now, the bov sounds amazing! I’m not stepping on it too much because I didn’t realize I was going to need a boost gauge and manual boost controller. For some reason I thought the boost settings on the pfc would at least monitor the boost pressure by reading the vacuum or something but that definitely isn’t the case.

I had the turbo on my Subaru for a long time in the past so I know I’m not giving it more than 10 psi of boost when I’m driving. Can someone suggest a boost gauge or kit that should control how much boost is going into the engine?

Also I’ve noticed when I use the auto tune feature on copilot that it hasn’t really been making changes to my tune or maybe it’s so minimal that it’s not noticeable, any way for me to adjust this so it does do what it’s supposed to? I’m definitely clicking start and also telling it to lower ignition timing but when it’s over 20 knock it still doesn’t appear to change anything.

I also put a sheet of galvanized steel between the exhaust and heat exchanger to further prevent water temps raising. It sits on top of the crossmember and definitely it helps a bit but they still raise if I drive then park then drive again since the water is getting heated up on the Intercooler side

 

[REVN MR2]

Today I noticed when I’m going in boost the car didn’t want to go over 4400 rpm. Twice when I stepped on it and got to 4200 rpm or so it hesitated like it was choking or something. I’ve been able to go over 5000 rpms in boost in the past but I’m not sure if there’s something wrong that I need to check. Afr and knock levels are good so I just don’t know what could be causing this.

 

[scotched]

I don't know much about turbos but I know the PFC doesn't have any knock feedback control. Some members here used to run J&S Safeguard for real time control.

 

[REVN MR2]

I am trying to wire my boost gauge and I cannot for the life of me find a negative source bolt close to the fuse box in the drivers side dash. I’m about to run a wire directly to the battery but I’d rather not. Can anyone tell me where I can find one? I don’t have much length of wire coming from the gauge.
Update: turns out my multimeter was no good, had to get another one and used the bolt right outside the fuse box far the negative ground.