A lot of owners think that the under hood temperatures of their MR2 are high.
Logical as when you stand behind it after a spirited drive, it does feel hot and opening the lid .... well the whooosh of hot air flash dries your eyes.
This is not the whole story though.
The OEM exhaust runs véry hot because of the reduced space. The manifold with precats, main cat and muffler are very close and the latter two stacked up. The cat needs to be hot to work and the hot air from that heats keeps the muffler from radiating any heat.
There is no long pipes anywhere and to make it worse the cat is shielded from below and the muffler from all sides. The heat shields around the manifold keep is from heating up the air but it does keep the manifold/cats very hot, thus all of the system downstream.
So yes, thát is hhhót.
If one would take the black heat shield obove/behind the muffler out, then there is a real risk of overheating the rear bumper apron.
As long as the car moves though fresh air enters from the side vents and the heat is pushed out from the rear thus does not heat up anything in front. Still, the air filter housing is situated at the rear and although well shielded, gets warmer than when it would be where the battery is located.
I live at the souther edge of Spain and it can get réal hot here in summer. Só hot that any vegetable matter collected by the rear nappy can get set alight by the cat. The second time it smoke smouldering when I parked the car I decided to tackle it as I wanted the exhaust to be less restrictive anyway:
Also took the drip tray out and had already fitted a min (800 gramm)i battery. Ah, and deleted the petrol tank vent canister.
Lastly removed the black heat shield and part of the license plate holder, opening up the rear.
With the wáy smaller battery and the canister removed, the air entering through the side vents encounters less obstruction and with also the rear exit opened up, there is more flow oút too: I.e. any heat is taken out quicker.
It also makes a huge difference that the straight through exhaust allows the hot gasses to leave asap, meaning a lót less time to heat up the system.
The result is that after flógging the thing up a tight winding mountain pass in second/third, even first through switchbacks, there is NO waft of scolding air rising up when I open the lid.
It makes no sense reproducing the temperatures indicated by the MAF as the ambient temps are leading ánd I took the duct through the rear wheel well out. I cán mention that under comparable conditions pottering about at the coast, the intake temps are consistenly 30-35 degrees C. lower and the rear lid does not heat up.
Oh and 3 degrees less is 1% power more. Cool no?! Literally
Logical as when you stand behind it after a spirited drive, it does feel hot and opening the lid .... well the whooosh of hot air flash dries your eyes.
This is not the whole story though.
The OEM exhaust runs véry hot because of the reduced space. The manifold with precats, main cat and muffler are very close and the latter two stacked up. The cat needs to be hot to work and the hot air from that heats keeps the muffler from radiating any heat.
There is no long pipes anywhere and to make it worse the cat is shielded from below and the muffler from all sides. The heat shields around the manifold keep is from heating up the air but it does keep the manifold/cats very hot, thus all of the system downstream.
So yes, thát is hhhót.
If one would take the black heat shield obove/behind the muffler out, then there is a real risk of overheating the rear bumper apron.
As long as the car moves though fresh air enters from the side vents and the heat is pushed out from the rear thus does not heat up anything in front. Still, the air filter housing is situated at the rear and although well shielded, gets warmer than when it would be where the battery is located.
I live at the souther edge of Spain and it can get réal hot here in summer. Só hot that any vegetable matter collected by the rear nappy can get set alight by the cat. The second time it smoke smouldering when I parked the car I decided to tackle it as I wanted the exhaust to be less restrictive anyway:
- Off with the rear nappy, much later took off the front one too.
- Decat manifold but kept the heat shields.
- Decat mid pipe.
- Welded a superbike damper to an OEM connection. The gas now exits at the opposite side behind the car.
Also took the drip tray out and had already fitted a min (800 gramm)i battery. Ah, and deleted the petrol tank vent canister.
Lastly removed the black heat shield and part of the license plate holder, opening up the rear.
With the wáy smaller battery and the canister removed, the air entering through the side vents encounters less obstruction and with also the rear exit opened up, there is more flow oút too: I.e. any heat is taken out quicker.
It also makes a huge difference that the straight through exhaust allows the hot gasses to leave asap, meaning a lót less time to heat up the system.
The result is that after flógging the thing up a tight winding mountain pass in second/third, even first through switchbacks, there is NO waft of scolding air rising up when I open the lid.
It makes no sense reproducing the temperatures indicated by the MAF as the ambient temps are leading ánd I took the duct through the rear wheel well out. I cán mention that under comparable conditions pottering about at the coast, the intake temps are consistenly 30-35 degrees C. lower and the rear lid does not heat up.
Oh and 3 degrees less is 1% power more. Cool no?! Literally