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here it is, sorry about the delay, i was on vacation for a few days.



This part is actually off an evora engine but it's the same part as the rav4. both stock applications that support the motor's weight by those bolt positions use this instead of the torque mount you have on there right now. the part is available for about $120 straight from toyota with part number 12315-31110 as mentioned earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Hope you had a good vacation ...

Thanks for the pic . I'm not ruling out buying the bracket , but I haven't remove the other yet to actually see what it looks like . I think I'm going to try the torque arm one first . I'm even thinking about incorporating the torque arm into the strut tower . Any thoughts about that besides weight .
 

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Unfortunately you can't really use that torque arm as Toyota intended. the way i have the mounts configured it rotates about a different axis than it would in say the camry application. if you want to stop the motor from torquing over you need to put a torque link towards the rear of the motor instead of the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Unfortunately you can't really use that torque arm as Toyota intended. the way i have the mounts configured it rotates about a different axis than it would in say the camry application. if you want to stop the motor from torquing over you need to put a torque link towards the rear of the motor instead of the top.
When you say torquing over are you talking about side to side or in a circular motion front to back . I not following what difference it would make on the rear vs. the top . My engine came from a Camry and it did have an additional motor mount on the front lower part of the engine .
 

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When you say torquing over are you talking about side to side or in a circular motion front to back . I not following what difference it would make on the rear vs. the top . My engine came from a Camry and it did have an additional motor mount on the front lower part of the engine .
i'm strictly talking about the front to back motion. the normal pivot is around the two left right motor mounts that we aren't using. they pivot about half way between the crank centerline and the axle center line. this results in a front to back motion at the torque arm. with my mounts the pivot point is right at that front mount with that stiffer mount. that makes the torque action at the stock torque arm location act a bit more up and down along with that front to back and more importantly since it's not a pivot axis but a pivot point if you have a torque arm at that location you'll be causing more motion on the transmission side
 

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Will the mkii 2gr swap header fit or does it hit the rear crossmember?
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Gouky's mk2 header .... the rear fit but would be better if the collector flange was to the left and at a little different angle . But it does fit





The front is a no go . It hits right were the front crossmember is plus the collector flange would need to be to the left a little .



 

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Wow, that front header fits even worse than i imagined it would. but the end result is the same with it not being usable.

The truth is most of the power that you get for redoing the exhaust is not from the headers but rather the y-pipe being cleaner. i know you're going to make your own headers but for others attempting this it would be easy to start with the avalon's front manifold and cut off the catalytic converter after it goes to round pipe and route from there.

here's a cheap one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-08-09-TO...ash=item238a764618:g:7iIAAOSwEFZZgR-E&vxp=mtr

but here's one that shows the shape a bit better: http://www.ebay.com/itm/EXHAUST-MAN...ash=item3d325cb11c:g:0J4AAOSw1WJZH8wH&vxp=mtr
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
That bottom ebay link makes the Avalon's manifold look like it sticks out pretty far before it starts to bend down .
 

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It does stick out about as far as the alternator does, they left room for these parts behind it:



You can't get an avalon with an oil cooler in the USA but i think you can in other markets so they designed for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #155 ·
cyclehead .... yours is really short . With the firewall rework I'll have a bit more room to work with but I really don't want it to stick out as far as the alternator .
 

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On the other 2gr swap with e153 the front crossmember was notched to allow for the front header to clear.

http://s268.photobucket.com/user/khoulovesfue/media/2grfe%20Swap/IMG_1465.jpg.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
On the other 2gr swap with e153 the front crossmember was notched to allow for the front header to clear.

http://s268.photobucket.com/user/khoulovesfue/media/2grfe%20Swap/IMG_1465.jpg.html
With Gouky's mounts the engine is farther forward ... There's no way it could be notched . Especially with the gas tank in the stock location . It will be easier to make a new exhaust or as mentioned rework the oem header .


I'm also thinking noob notch his rear crossmember too.
 

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I don't think you're about to win any awards for your lightweight design but i doubt you're ever going to have any issues with that mount breaking. looks good :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #160 ·
I don't think you're about to win any awards for your lightweight design but i doubt you're ever going to have any issues with that mount breaking. looks good :)
Yeah I tend to over engineer things but I'm happy with strong ....

I was think of using the oem aluminum bridge one for the 1zz with the three bolts but didn't know if it was strong enough.
Plus I don't like the 3 nuts on the bottom .
 
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