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Discussion Starter #1
I'm hoping someone can help me.

I'm installing the Viper (DEI) 5902 in my Spyder (2001 MK3).

I have good electrical knowledge but not brilliant car electrical knowledge. I am doing it myself because I want the end result to be a good quality install (I note that I discovered the dealer scotch locks whilst install, from dealer, can't believe it, anyway, I digress). I have the alarm installed working for everything but remote start (installed pins, battery backup sirens, door locks controlled and lights found).

I purchased the Xpress Kit XK05 to bypass the immobiliser and the 5902 has remote start. My questions are as below.

Can someone tell me what the wires are on the barrel are compared to the XK05. It's just the terms wire colors don't match. I mean the XKO5 says as below will be on the barrel but that is not what I have on the barrel (obviously its wrong).

Page 8 for the XK05 shows (http://www.bypasskit.com/manuals/1226_PKALL_H00_S00_D04_I_ENFR.pdf)

CLK Yellow Don't have
DATA Yellow/Green Don't have
SYNCHRO Yellow/Black
Ground White/Black. Obviously easily found (haven't done it yet though and I do have a White/Black cable).
Keysense Blue/Red. dont have. Assuming it's Red Yellow as this is the only other connector on the keysense plug that isn't ground.

I have the diagram of the 01 Spyder electrical (engine immobiliser system) and I struggle to follow it but none of the colors match what the XK05 say they are for the Spyder. That would be fine if the terms matched. The Toyota manual calls them CODE, KSW, RXCK and TXCT. This is not the sort of thing I want to guess for obvious reasons.

Also, for the remote start connections from the alarm it has 60Amp capable cable and relays (onboard) however if I understand correctly I am connecting them to the ingition wires on or around the barel which could handle, well, maybe 10Amp but I doubt it. It seems wrong. Do I have to run to the actual starter and relay (but then its a long run and the cables need extending) or am I really to connect these massive cables to the pathetic (in comparison) ignition cables?

I've been documenting the install and am hoping to put it back into the community when I am done. From my looking around (and I have done heaps) it seems like its needed.

I'm wondering if there is a difference in the wiring in an Aus delivered Spyder?
 

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Here is a Post Removed from a Thread about the Immob Circuit..
http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?32875-Engine-Immobilizer-Trouble&p=559666&viewfull=1#post559666

You can read the Entire Thread if you like.. but this is the 'How Stuff Works' part..

1) The 'Code' line Term 2 on the reader, and Term W3-7 on the ECM, is the Code as Transmitted from the Reader.. it goes from the Transponder to the ECM. It is a 'Normally Hi ( 12 volt ) line, and Pulses low ( to ground ) to send key Code.

2) The TXCT line, Term 1 on transponder, and Term E3-15 on ECM, is the 'Read Request'. I have found this line 'Left' in a High or a Low state, after a Read is Done.. To do a Read, the line is taken lo ( or is already lo ) for 50 Ms.. then is Brought High ( only 2 volt is Hi Sig! ) for 50 Ms, then brought lo again. The 'Action' of bringing this line 'Lo' ( to Ground ) will trigger a 'Read from the key, and Transmit to the ECM, by the 'Code Line'

3) The RXCK is the Receive Clock Pulses. This is the 'Sync' line that will allow the Transponder and the ECM to 'Read and Transmit' data at the Same Time 'Frame'. This Signal is Apparently not a Symmetrical Square wave.. It looks like the High VS Lo pattern of the Wave, changes shape During Different parts of the Read.. So it MIGHT be more Accurately refereed to as the 'Bit Read Ready' line.. My scope is not good enough to get a 'Handle' as to what is happening here.. but it's ABOUT .125 Ms per Period of Wave.. I'm getting an 'Studder' from about .1 to about .15 Ms.. This line is a Lo of Zero Volt, and a High of 5 Volt..


Also Removed a Pic from an Eariler Post.. in the Same Thread..


And then if you need the ECU pinouts..

http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?37945-1-and-2-ZZ-ECU-s-Side-by-Side..-Sorta

I think there is enough Info here for you to figure it out..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for some great info (wondering why I didn't find that when I searched through page after page on sites including this one). Anyway.

I need to digest it a bit more but I think that should be enough for me to work it out. Really appreciate the info.

Any comment on my ignition question and wiring?
 

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I have an Engine Harness from an Unknown Spyder.. But it's a MT.. SOME of the Wire Colors do not match what My Wire Diagram Says..

Wondering if the Different Years might have Different Colors.. For what Ever Reason..

Should be able to figure out the Proper Wire from is place in the Various Connectors..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry, badly worded question on my part.

You have covered the immobiliser well enough for me to work it out (I hope, but I wouldn't complain if anyone had wire for wire though :cool:) And yea, it seems the colors are different to the guide I had (and you posted).

What I am wondering is for the connection of the alarm to the starter system the alarm seems to suggest (given the massive 1 to 4 gauge wires) that it should connect to the starter etc and pass the real starter current (rated to 60Amp on this alarm). The wires at the ignition would be lucky to take 10amp so I am assuming that either the alarm is incorrectly assuming it needs to take the load when in the MR2 it doesn't OR that I am incorrectly expecting I can cut the alarm in at the ignition harness when in fact I have to wire to the actual starter wires and battery. The issue I have with the later is the details I have say you should not join or extend the wires from the alarm starter circuits.
 

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I understand your Confusion..

I'll print out the Link you posted.. and Chew on it some ..

If I have any Bright Spots of Thinking.. I'll post them..

Cap
 

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Speculation:
The worrisome thing in all this is that if the Viper company can bypass the immobiliser, so can car thieves.
Again more Speculation from me..

I'm thinking the Viper Alarm needs to be trained as to what key(s) you have.. so the Read still happenes without the Key in the Ignition.. It's just the Read is Coming from the Viper Chip in Viper Memory, rather from the Key itself..

Only way I have found to 'get Around' the Immobilizer.. is to keep the ECU in 'Key Learn Mode' and it never finishes reading and Programming the 'Key Set'.. ( it's a Secret hoew to do it ) I do not know how long it will stay in this Mode.. and I have Nobody to ask about this kind o Stuff.. but so far it has worked.. But for me it's something like a ticking time Bomb.. When it does finally get pissed off and drop out of Program mode.. I think you'll be stuck.. If it ever happenes to that ECU, I think that Spyder will come home on a Flat bead..

Cap
 

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Discussion Starter #10
You guys are correct, you must train the xk05 with the working key and it can only be set to one car. I'm sure someone with no how could resolve the later issue but the former would be a feat if even possible.
 

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Hi guys. I was about to start a thread on installing a Keyless entry
system with remote engine start until I saw this one. I've got the AutoPage C3-RS730 LCD
2-way Car Alarm & Remote Start kit.. And as the name suggests its got a
million wires to install before you can use it!

I have a MT 2003 MRS. My concern is if its actually possible to install
a remote engine start on our manual gear MR2s? (I have a 2003)
Maybe sacrificing the spare key by removing the transponder and
installing it near the ignition of the car. Or even just hanging the key
next to the ignition and only using it to turn the key once the car is
started remotely?

I'm not electrically minded at all and I would give
the tast to an electrician.. But something tells me this is an
incredibly complicated project. Is it worth getting into or should I
just sell off the alarm kit?

Ps. I'm doing this cause of the scorching weather in Dubai. I need to
start the car remotely (in this case up to 2000 feet) for a few minutes
so the AC cools the cabin down before I can sit in.
 

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Sell it and get one for the Spyder..

That is the Cheepest way to do it..

Cap
 

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Sell it and get one for the Spyder..

That is the Cheepest way to do it..

Cap
Where can I get a remote start for the spyder? Any recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Sorry for delayed response.

XK05 is required for disabling the factory imob to allow the alarm to start the car. It's a risk (because now it is possible from within the car to disable the imob if they find and can control the XK05) but it is less of a risk than the guys puting a key in a box that disables the imob and given the effort I am going to to hide everything and loom in properly if the get past it then they can have it.

Haven't got my remote start working yet but getting there.
 
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