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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My water pump has a small leak, so I think it's time for a change. The manual says not to remove the engine mount, but it looks like it's in the way. I can feel where the bolts are based on looking at the new pump, but there doesn't seem to be much room to work with. Any tips on getting to the bolts holding the water pump?
 

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PM MarkG. He's done this a couple of times and is very proficient at it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have done this and did not remove the engine mount. the fit is tough but it is doable with patients and the right tools

take off the belt (a 2ft breaker bar on the belt tensioner allows one to use one hand to de-tension and the other to slip the belt off

I used deep well sockets with a small 3/8 drive ratchet (short handle ) put the socket on to the bolt and then slip in the ratchet onto socket and loosen the bolts. Its hard to see the bolts by the firewall close to the alternator (I almost loosened an alt bolt LOL)

I had the coolant drained for a change out which is when I found my leaky pump. If you have a full system if you keep your cap on the overflow there should be enough vacuum to keep most of the fluid in but you will have some mess and will likely have to burp the system.

replacement is pretty much the reverse

Completely doable without taking the mount off
Wow, thanks for the quick advice. All the bolts are 10mm, correct? I was playing around with different ratchet/extension combinations and couldn't get the right length. I don't have a 3/8 deep socket in 10mm so I think that might be the key.

I think I read in another thread that the bolt lengths were different depending on the location, so I'll be sure to keep track of that too.
 

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Wow, thanks for the quick advice. All the bolts are 10mm, correct? I was playing around with different ratchet/extension combinations and couldn't get the right length. I don't have a 3/8 deep socket in 10mm so I think that might be the key.

I think I read in another thread that the bolt lengths were different depending on the location, so I'll be sure to keep track of that too.
Yeah if you put them back in the wrong location you can pop the TC cover.
 

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water pump

We removed the engine mount to replace the water pump. (BTW:The water pump bolts aren't all the same length. Replacing the bolts is a pain because of limited visibility.)
The engine mount is pretty easy to take out. Used a short piece of 2X10 between the floor jack and the oil pan to hold the engine in place when the mount was removed. Made a tool consisting of an old box wrench cut and welded to a long round bar to lever the accessory drive belt tensioner so the belt could be easily removed and replaced. The tensioner on our car has a really strong spring.
Also, removing the right side engine mount makes it way easier to replace the alternator, in my humble opinion.
At least, that's how we did it.
Alex
 

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We removed the engine mount to replace the water pump. (BTW:The water pump bolts aren't all the same length. Replacing the bolts is a pain because of limited visibility.)
The engine mount is pretty easy to take out. Used a short piece of 2X10 between the floor jack and the oil pan to hold the engine in place when the mount was removed. Made a tool consisting of an old box wrench cut and welded to a long round bar to lever the accessory drive belt tensioner so the belt could be easily removed and replaced. The tensioner on our car has a really strong spring.
Also, removing the right side engine mount makes it way easier to replace the alternator, in my humble opinion.
At least, that's how we did it.
Alex
Removing the engine mount is relativity easy however you risk damaging the flex sections on the down pipe and among other things you did not have to do it to replace the water pump.

The famous Mark G asked me to help him replace his water pump and the only thing we needed to get from the auto parts store was a smaller swivel socket and it came out like butter. It was so easy that Mark G installed the new pump.

It's good to ask how hard it is to replace the water pump if you never did it before but once you dive in it's a cake walk and not rocket science. The Alternator is a completely different story as you need to maneuver it like you do an Apollo mission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the tips guys. I was able to do it successfully over the weekend. I removed all the bolts from working above the car by "feel" and using T-bone's advice. Putting the new pump back in place was a bit trickier and it was a lot easier for me to do from under the car.

The old pump was definitely leaking - there was a good amount of dried coolant on the housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Actually I didn't drain the whole system. I thought I could get away with the just removing the water pump and relying on the pressure to hold the coolant in. In my case the pressure didn't seem to hold any of it in, luckily I had placed a pan under the car to catch most of it. About 1/2 a gallon of coolant came out.

I had already completed a complete coolant change about 5k miles before so I was already pretty comfortable burping the system and didn't have any trouble this time around.
 

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New member.
I joined to get information on replacing the water pump and this proved very helpful.

Had a few more tips that I learned the hard way.

On the issue of poor visibility I found a camera phone was very helpful.
It was much easier replacing from underneath after taking off the shield. This also made it easier to see that the o-ring stayed in place when re-installing (don't ask :blush: )

I had some trouble clocking it to get the bolts in from the top, but it was a piece of cake from underneath.
 
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