In (non)standard got:6 cm deep
10 cm high
117 cm wide
Even though heavier than a delete, Al-Mg is imo übercool!!!Alrighty...... Just purchased this LIGHT Al-Mg boi
Alrighty...... Just purchased this LIGHT Al-Mg boi
Looking forward to cutting this thing up.
View attachment 97051
Oops there goes some of the material density advantage...The metal is thicker than I thought
This is a B7 FRONT Bumper. The key here is that the B7 bumper strut does not protrude all the way through to the front face. It mounts on the rear face. So there is a flat surface that MAY allow for bolting to the MR2 frame. Hold off a few days on your purchase until I hack it up and see if it works.What was the part number you used when you purchased the bar? I've been following your tail closely and wanted to do the bar as well but the A4/S4 bars I was looking at don't look anything like this
Yes and no. Turning this one into swiss cheese with a hole saw may still have higher rigidity and be lighter. The first thing to happen will be scales on the stock bar and this one.Oops there goes some of the material density advantage...
Regardless of the result, I think it cool.Yes and no. Turning this one into swiss cheese with a hole saw may still have higher rigidity and be lighter. The first thing to happen will be scales on the stock bar and this one.
Ahhh that explains it. I assumed it was a B9 bumper you were trying to get based on your initial post about it. Pardon my confusionThis is a B7 FRONT Bumper. The key here is that the B7 bumper strut does not protrude all the way through to the front face. It mounts on the rear face. So there is a flat surface that MAY allow for bolting to the MR2 frame. Hold off a few days on your purchase until I hack it up and see if it works.
Yes and no. Turning this one into swiss cheese with a hole saw may still have higher rigidity and be lighter. The first thing to happen will be scales on the stock bar and this one.
I was actually looking for a good way to lock the hinge so that no prop rod would be needed. If I can come up with something that would keep the hinge from pivoting I would go with that.I'm one step ahead of you. My rear prop rod fell out when the plastic piece broke...one day I'll do gas struts but until then I'll revel in the knowledge one part of my car is lighter than yours![]()
I was actually looking for a good way to lock the hinge so that no prop rod would be needed. If I can come up with something that would keep the hinge from pivoting I would go with that.
That is very similar to the Lotus LidBone. I like it! But you're right, it probably weighs the same or more than the rod.![]()
DDPR Decklid Prop Round 2
Here we go for round two of our decklid prop group buy! If you aren't' familiar with it, the DDPR decklid prop rod is a part that we designed here in house as a solution to a fairly common problem in the MR2 Spyder; the OEM prop rod coming lose falling out. The OEM piece is held to the unibody...www.spyderchat.com
Maybe some inspiration since its exactly what you want (but too heavy, I know, I know!)
With a couple of changes to make the links from carbon fiber sheet, and using polymer pins and bushings, that design could be absolutely feather light.![]()
DDPR Decklid Prop Round 2
Here we go for round two of our decklid prop group buy! If you aren't' familiar with it, the DDPR decklid prop rod is a part that we designed here in house as a solution to a fairly common problem in the MR2 Spyder; the OEM prop rod coming lose falling out. The OEM piece is held to the unibody...www.spyderchat.com
Maybe some inspiration since its exactly what you want (but too heavy, I know, I know!)