Still being odd with my weight reduction items. Thanks Lotustalk!!!!! This little guy was 0.8 LBS!!!! Shifting is so much lighter and natural!! I understand why it was there for NVH but man it is so much better without this thing!
I have quite the collection of bad MR2 gearboxes, and their linkages. I think I'll sacrifice one for science and see if I like it.Still being odd with my weight reduction items. Thanks Lotustalk!!!!! This little guy was 0.8 LBS!!!! Shifting is so much lighter and natural!! I understand why it was there for NVH but man it is so much better without this thing!
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Generally it's easier to shift but with a bit more feedback. Could be interpreted as more notchy but not by much. It makes it easier to shift quickly so my guess is it's harder on the synchros. First gear is a bit odd as it requires a bit more force or rev matching when downshifting into 1st. Probably just an effect of the weight damping the kick back.I have quite the collection of bad MR2 gearboxes, and their linkages. I think I'll sacrifice one for science and see if I like it.
Yeah, at least it looks right and nobody will ever steal it no matter how much crack they have done. I went with the Chinese Android unit because it was the lightest I could find. But it would get ripped out of I parked the car downtown. Looks pricey but it was $80. Probably because it's full of spyware. I hope the Chinese government enjoys side loaded apps and Pandora channels because that's all they're going to get.Haha, I've had the exact same thought, I too am convinced they play a role in chassis bracing and that's why I left them in the car. Them being painted black now and the removal of the ash tray and cupholder give the interior a more spacious feel already, I'm quite pleased with the way the dashboard looks even with the brackets still there.
I went for a cassette deck because there are AUX cassette adapters for $10 - basically a fake cassette with an AUX cable to plug in your phone and play music via the cassette deck.
CD players for cars (at least the old ones) usually have some hefty extra weight to them. I imagine that's to prevent e.g. CDs skipping by gyroscopic stabilization to counteract vibrations, but that's only a wild guess.
Nice! I have replaced the OEM reservoir with a bladder.And that's a light weight wiper fluid reservoir (can take ~ 6oz of fluid, 1 lb when filled completely, compared to 1.5 lbs the OEM reservoir weighs - when empty!)
I took a brake fluid reservoir, poked a hole in the lid and had a small aluminum mount made. Pretty satisfied with the result, should make it through inspection since the amount of fluid is good for about 5-10 short squirts. It's also mounted in a fantastic spot - right next to the firewall and pretty much centered.
Similar seat! Which model is yours? I just got the new b10.Cut out a tiny bit of weight today. It had been bugging me that passengers were having to slide over the forward most seat bracket. Also, there was some rust and excess material on the sliders. So, I removed them, cut the top rails down a bit more, Re-tack welded some of the brackets that I didn't like and chopped off two adjustment slots from the front brackets. All in all maybe 0.25-0.3 lbs. Not much but it looks cleaner and no more OOPSIES when passengers plop down too quickly. I could probably buy some Bride rails but I like the OEM aluminum adjustment bar. It kind of holds anything I throw under the seat.
Yes, I know I still have not trimmed up the carpet. I also leaned on the center console and split my adhesive. So, I need to find another solution for that.
Anyway, enjoy my Ultrasuede butt print!
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Ooooo I love the new b10! I went with the b5 because the ingress is the easiest. The seating height was a really big deal for me because of my height with a helmet. So, normal race brackets wouldn't work because I would be sitting too high. So I fabbed these up to get the seat bottom as low as possible. That way I can just about sit on the floor if I want to and still be able to move the seat forward and back. If I had a crash bar to get over though I would probably mount the seat up high like you did.Similar seat! Which model is yours? I just got the new b10.
How tall are you? I'm 6 feet. I'm using the PCI bracket/slider from Relentless Racing. I had to cut off the top tabs for the front mounting point so I could lower the seat (looks like you have done the same?). Reason I bought the B10 is because of the ability to use stock seatbelt as well as 5 point harness. Like yours this seat also gave me a good bit of leg room back after installing my roll bar (previously I had a Recaro reclinable and after installing the rollbar I lost a few inches of leg room).Ooooo I love the new b10! I went with the b5 because the ingress is the easiest. The seating height was a really big deal for me because of my height with a helmet. So, normal race brackets wouldn't work because I would be sitting too high. So I fabbed these up to get the seat bottom as low as possible. That way I can just about sit on the floor if I want to and still be able to move the seat forward and back. If I had a crash bar to get over though I would probably mount the seat up high like you did.
Speaking! I don't recall the exact weight reduction from a few pages back but seem to remember these should trim 4-5lbs of rotating mass per corner? I am not sure what price point these could be feasibly sold for but a mostly plug and play swap that works without cracking the brake system open would have my attention.Another update on the rotors. Yeah remember these. I have not forgotten. I took the hats over to a local machinist to see if he could possibly true up the surfaces. I should have them back in a couple days and will be able to test fit them again. I am debating going strait to 4 piston front and rear for the additional reduced weight. While the bracket is doable for the OE calipers, the whole point is the reduced weight. I don't know if there is enough market to justify fabricating a final version of the OE caliper adapter even though it does fit.
If you are interested in running something like this with OE calipers speak now or I am going to fab up the full Dynalite adapter.
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I have found some calipers that I like and that Wllwood tells me will work with this rotor application. The catch, the rears don't have a mechanical parking brake. That either means extra weight for a longer bracket and a small parking clamp brake OR hydrolic parking brake. I am honestly not a fan of either. But I am leaning towards the removing the problematic cables and running a pass through in line hydro hand brake between the master cylinder and the ABS unit. I think it is the lightest solution and can be done in stages.Speaking! I don't recall the exact weight reduction from a few pages back but seem to remember these should trim 4-5lbs of rotating mass per corner? I am not sure what price point these could be feasibly sold for but a mostly plug and play swap that works without cracking the brake system open would have my attention.