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Weight Reduction - Odd Items

36003 Views 589 Replies 47 Participants Last post by  Node
I have been looking through the other weight reduction historical posts and it seems some items are missing. I have been slowly dropping weight from my build and I am to the point that I need to start getting creative. So, let's put a list together of items the other weight reduction threads have missed. Let's compile some hard to find weights.

For example I have found some Neodymium speakers that weigh just 3.8 LBS. What is the OEM speaker weight? For that matter what does the OEM in dash sterio weigh? Some of these Chinese android units are very light and swapping out worn components could potentially have free weight savings if done right.

Edited with contributions below:
  1. Speakers -
  2. In Dash -
  3. Side Mirrors -
  4. Rear View Mirror (not legally required in most state inspections)
  5. OE Door Glass -
  6. Windshield Glass -
  7. Hood Hinges -
  8. Engine Bay "Trunk" Hinges -
  9. Brake Rotor "Dust Shields" -
  10. Hardtop Glass -
  11. Hardtop Plexi -
  12. Evap Canister -
  13. Door Lock Solenoids -
  14. Power Antenna (swap to stubby) -
  15. Glass Fog Lights (swap to plastic) -
  16. Washer Tank (run empty or close to) -
  17. Replace the large door pull handles with pull straps -
  18. Evap hard lines
  19. OEM Alarm receiver module (2ZZ swap doesnt have RFID key function)
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Still being odd with my weight reduction items. Thanks Lotustalk!!!!! This little guy was 0.8 LBS!!!! Shifting is so much lighter and natural!! I understand why it was there for NVH but man it is so much better without this thing!

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Still being odd with my weight reduction items. Thanks Lotustalk!!!!! This little guy was 0.8 LBS!!!! Shifting is so much lighter and natural!! I understand why it was there for NVH but man it is so much better without this thing!

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I have quite the collection of bad MR2 gearboxes, and their linkages. I think I'll sacrifice one for science and see if I like it.
I have quite the collection of bad MR2 gearboxes, and their linkages. I think I'll sacrifice one for science and see if I like it.
Generally it's easier to shift but with a bit more feedback. Could be interpreted as more notchy but not by much. It makes it easier to shift quickly so my guess is it's harder on the synchros. First gear is a bit odd as it requires a bit more force or rev matching when downshifting into 1st. Probably just an effect of the weight damping the kick back.

All in all I would say it shifts better.
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Two little somethings I finally had the time to add to the car.

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(the green floor will be covered with a carpet eventually)

I'm a big sucker for the OEM look so one of those rainbow colored aftermarket head units with a huge screen was out of the question. I found an OEM radio that's lighter than the original cassette deck (~4lbs) - this one is from a Toyota Tercel, it weights 2.5lbs and looks "period correct". I've had some custom mounting plates cut and a small fascia 3D printed to make it blend in a little better.



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And that's a light weight wiper fluid reservoir (can take ~ 6oz of fluid, 1 lb when filled completely, compared to 1.5 lbs the OEM reservoir weighs - when empty!)
I took a brake fluid reservoir, poked a hole in the lid and had a small aluminum mount made. Pretty satisfied with the result, should make it through inspection since the amount of fluid is good for about 5-10 short squirts. It's also mounted in a fantastic spot - right next to the firewall and pretty much centered.
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Nice! You are probably the 1st person willing to go with a cassette deck for weight reduction! I appreciate the period specific look. Let us see how this ultimately turns out.

FWIW, the center brackets that hold the radio are super beefy! I strongly suspect they act as chassis bracing in conjunction with the dashboard cross bar. That's why I kept them.
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Haha, I've had the exact same thought, I too am convinced they play a role in chassis bracing and that's why I left them in the car. Them being painted black now and the removal of the ash tray and cupholder give the interior a more spacious feel already, I'm quite pleased with the way the dashboard looks even with the brackets still there.
I went for a cassette deck because there are AUX cassette adapters for $10 - basically a fake cassette with an AUX cable to plug in your phone and play music via the cassette deck.
CD players for cars (at least the old ones) usually have some hefty extra weight to them. I imagine that's to prevent e.g. CDs skipping by gyroscopic stabilization to counteract vibrations, but that's only a wild guess.
Haha, I've had the exact same thought, I too am convinced they play a role in chassis bracing and that's why I left them in the car. Them being painted black now and the removal of the ash tray and cupholder give the interior a more spacious feel already, I'm quite pleased with the way the dashboard looks even with the brackets still there.
I went for a cassette deck because there are AUX cassette adapters for $10 - basically a fake cassette with an AUX cable to plug in your phone and play music via the cassette deck.
CD players for cars (at least the old ones) usually have some hefty extra weight to them. I imagine that's to prevent e.g. CDs skipping by gyroscopic stabilization to counteract vibrations, but that's only a wild guess.
Yeah, at least it looks right and nobody will ever steal it no matter how much crack they have done. I went with the Chinese Android unit because it was the lightest I could find. But it would get ripped out of I parked the car downtown. Looks pricey but it was $80. Probably because it's full of spyware. I hope the Chinese government enjoys side loaded apps and Pandora channels because that's all they're going to get.

On another lightness note. I have cut several pounds out of the car over the last few days. Bolts, prop rods, shifter thingy, rebuilt lighter seat sliders, extraneous interior wiring, extra engine bay wiring etc.. I will weigh again at the end of this week. Fingers crossed for 2020 lbs. If I can get there I'll be under 2000 lbs after I turn the brake rotor hats.
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And that's a light weight wiper fluid reservoir (can take ~ 6oz of fluid, 1 lb when filled completely, compared to 1.5 lbs the OEM reservoir weighs - when empty!)
I took a brake fluid reservoir, poked a hole in the lid and had a small aluminum mount made. Pretty satisfied with the result, should make it through inspection since the amount of fluid is good for about 5-10 short squirts. It's also mounted in a fantastic spot - right next to the firewall and pretty much centered.
Nice! I have replaced the OEM reservoir with a bladder.

The sound system is all out, incl. speakers. Have a 100 gramm panel with USB ports, 12V socket and volt meter instead. Keeps my mind at ease concerning the 800 gramm LiFe battery.
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Cut out a tiny bit of weight today. It had been bugging me that passengers were having to slide over the forward most seat bracket. Also, there was some rust and excess material on the sliders. So, I removed them, cut the top rails down a bit more, Re-tack welded some of the brackets that I didn't like and chopped off two adjustment slots from the front brackets. All in all maybe 0.25-0.3 lbs. Not much but it looks cleaner and no more OOPSIES when passengers plop down too quickly. I could probably buy some Bride rails but I like the OEM aluminum adjustment bar. It kind of holds anything I throw under the seat.

Yes, I know I still have not trimmed up the carpet. I also leaned on the center console and split my adhesive. So, I need to find another solution for that.

Anyway, enjoy my Ultrasuede butt print!

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Another update on the rotors. Yeah remember these. I have not forgotten. I took the hats over to a local machinist to see if he could possibly true up the surfaces. I should have them back in a couple days and will be able to test fit them again. I am debating going strait to 4 piston front and rear for the additional reduced weight. While the bracket is doable for the OE calipers, the whole point is the reduced weight. I don't know if there is enough market to justify fabricating a final version of the OE caliper adapter even though it does fit.

If you are interested in running something like this with OE calipers speak now or I am going to fab up the full Dynalite adapter.

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Cut out a tiny bit of weight today. It had been bugging me that passengers were having to slide over the forward most seat bracket. Also, there was some rust and excess material on the sliders. So, I removed them, cut the top rails down a bit more, Re-tack welded some of the brackets that I didn't like and chopped off two adjustment slots from the front brackets. All in all maybe 0.25-0.3 lbs. Not much but it looks cleaner and no more OOPSIES when passengers plop down too quickly. I could probably buy some Bride rails but I like the OEM aluminum adjustment bar. It kind of holds anything I throw under the seat.

Yes, I know I still have not trimmed up the carpet. I also leaned on the center console and split my adhesive. So, I need to find another solution for that.

Anyway, enjoy my Ultrasuede butt print!

View attachment 97828
Similar seat! Which model is yours? I just got the new b10.
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Similar seat! Which model is yours? I just got the new b10.
Ooooo I love the new b10! I went with the b5 because the ingress is the easiest. The seating height was a really big deal for me because of my height with a helmet. So, normal race brackets wouldn't work because I would be sitting too high. So I fabbed these up to get the seat bottom as low as possible. That way I can just about sit on the floor if I want to and still be able to move the seat forward and back. If I had a crash bar to get over though I would probably mount the seat up high like you did.
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Ooooo I love the new b10! I went with the b5 because the ingress is the easiest. The seating height was a really big deal for me because of my height with a helmet. So, normal race brackets wouldn't work because I would be sitting too high. So I fabbed these up to get the seat bottom as low as possible. That way I can just about sit on the floor if I want to and still be able to move the seat forward and back. If I had a crash bar to get over though I would probably mount the seat up high like you did.
How tall are you? I'm 6 feet. I'm using the PCI bracket/slider from Relentless Racing. I had to cut off the top tabs for the front mounting point so I could lower the seat (looks like you have done the same?). Reason I bought the B10 is because of the ability to use stock seatbelt as well as 5 point harness. Like yours this seat also gave me a good bit of leg room back after installing my roll bar (previously I had a Recaro reclinable and after installing the rollbar I lost a few inches of leg room).
Another update on the rotors. Yeah remember these. I have not forgotten. I took the hats over to a local machinist to see if he could possibly true up the surfaces. I should have them back in a couple days and will be able to test fit them again. I am debating going strait to 4 piston front and rear for the additional reduced weight. While the bracket is doable for the OE calipers, the whole point is the reduced weight. I don't know if there is enough market to justify fabricating a final version of the OE caliper adapter even though it does fit.

If you are interested in running something like this with OE calipers speak now or I am going to fab up the full Dynalite adapter.

View attachment 97829
Speaking! I don't recall the exact weight reduction from a few pages back but seem to remember these should trim 4-5lbs of rotating mass per corner? I am not sure what price point these could be feasibly sold for but a mostly plug and play swap that works without cracking the brake system open would have my attention.
Speaking! I don't recall the exact weight reduction from a few pages back but seem to remember these should trim 4-5lbs of rotating mass per corner? I am not sure what price point these could be feasibly sold for but a mostly plug and play swap that works without cracking the brake system open would have my attention.
I have found some calipers that I like and that Wllwood tells me will work with this rotor application. The catch, the rears don't have a mechanical parking brake. That either means extra weight for a longer bracket and a small parking clamp brake OR hydrolic parking brake. I am honestly not a fan of either. But I am leaning towards the removing the problematic cables and running a pass through in line hydro hand brake between the master cylinder and the ABS unit. I think it is the lightest solution and can be done in stages.

The one catch is that the calipers that Wilwood recommends are REALLY expensive! Like $270 per unit before pads. That's muchpre than the Dynalite units I was originally wanting to use. So, even with the hoses being compatible this is approaching $2500 for 4xHats 4xRotors 4xCaliper Brackets 4xCalipers 8xPads.

Not cheap even before the hand brake that seems to run about $100 at my cost.
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Ah, very nice!

I made my own, too, out of an aluminum rod. Then, during an oil change, I found the OE hood prop wedged between the bumper cover and diaper.

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For those looking to mod the front/read deck supports carbon fiber arrows are widely availeble por peanuts. If one feels a stiffer solution is needed then model airplane shops have wing reinforcing rods again cheaply.
"por peanuts" @Petrus Tu Espanol fugas.

You're not wrong though. The carbon fiber rolled rods and pultruded carbon rods are super cheap.
The machinist called and has completed FIVE rotor hats. I have sketched up an adapter for the Wilwood lightweight caliper. It looks like I may be able to keep it 2D planar making it super cheap. So that is a big plus!!! That also means a 3 day lead time for the next set of prototype brackets rather than several months. I may have time to pick up the hats tomorrow and bolt up a set of non wobbly rotors this weekend. Then all I have left is to take one radial and one axial measurement and I can hit the make button. I suppose I need to find an adapter to step between the Toyota hydraulic fitting and the Wilwood hydraulic standard fitting. I really don't want to make ANOTHER set of stainless hoses.

Getting close. Very exciting!

Here's a little sketch of my dimensioning lines as an appetizer!
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Picked up hats from the machinist. Looks like he did a good job cleaning up the last guys work. Lets hope I have enough slack in the caliper that taking off a few thousandths wont matter. Hoping for the best this weekend.

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