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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Ehhh, speaking as an engineer (electrical but took mechanical too. It looks like the front bar is a small sheer plane. I would expect it to provide some slight additional resistance to both yaw and pitch. Far more than the rear anyway.
 

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Ehhh, speaking as an engineer (electrical but took mechanical too. It looks like the front bar is a small sheer plane. I would expect it to provide some slight additional resistance to both yaw and pitch. Far more than the rear anyway.
Better measure than opinions based on suppositions no?!

I did some véry simple, bsisc non laser accurate ´chassis´ torsion measurements with Snelbaard´s belly plate vs. OEM, his FMB, with/without front strut brace, with/without front crash bar (was taking it off ányway ánd did not think of slacking the nuts on one end). The only one I did not are Dev´s door spacers.
Jack up one front corner and measure the hight under the opposite side tyre.
I found the differences negligible. Yes, all gave a difference but if not for the consistency it could easily have been within human measurement error.

With all said and done I would like to point out that our Spyder in OEM guise is not a floppy thing AT ALL.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Better measure than opinions based on suppositions no?!
Agreed! If its apart may as well measure.

Regarding the chassis. It's actually not bad as far as convertibles go. My MX5 was a wet noodle by comparison. My Elise would lift a wheel easily. The MR2 sits between the two but maybe a bit closer to the Elise in front / rear torsional stiffness than the MX5. Its really not bad as far as convertibles go.
 

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....maybe a bit closer to the Elise in front / rear torsional stiffness than the MX5. Its really not bad as far as convertibles go.
Exactly.
A point I try to make time and again concerning bracing. Our Spyder is already quite good for nót a track car. Just about all braces are mainly 2D reinforcements thus adding limited strúctural rigidy in the torsional plane, but they dó add weight. It is a double edged sword nót always worth the weight penalty in extra rigidity.
In mý case I have added limited bracing and deleted the front crash bar, resulting in total weight lóss and notable extra rigidity.
The footnote is that the ´rigity´ is almost all stemming from the lower suspension arm bracings which add more taut wheel movement.
The TRD rear lower control arm braces and Snelbaard´s front set result in só much more feedback It is hard to believe and proper fun plus added safety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 · (Edited)
Back to the topic somewhat. I have been dropping weight out of the car. While pulling out the surprisingly heavy OEM motorized mirrors I also dropped some door hardware too. Suprisingly removing the handle is AWESOME. So much room for activities! You don't realize how much / often you bank your knee (over 6 ft) with that thing in there. Pics to follow...

But my question.... WHERE IS THE DOOR SOLENOID!? I want to remove them since my keyless does not work anyway. Anyone have a diagram or instructions on how to remove while maintaining the locking function?

Here's a few shots of todays weight reduction. FYI, removed 5.28 lbs and added back just under 1 lb. Not bad.

Vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Automotive tire Trunk


Automotive tire Vehicle Trunk Automotive exterior Motor vehicle


Car Hood Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive design


Automotive lighting Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper
 

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It’s integrated into the latch, I removed mine as I’m running fibreglass doors but kept the latch. I think it’s screwed or riveted together from memory. This is the best pic I have but unfortunately I hadn’t yet removed the actuator, it’s the black plastic piece below the metal in the picture. Ive just added little red pull straps to the door as obviously I have no grab handle or door card anymore either. Door weights approx 4kg as it sits now lol
Tire Wheel Vehicle Car Hood
 

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While pulling out the surprisingly heavy OEM motorized mirrors I also dropped some door hardware too. Suprisingly removing the handle is AWESOME. So much room for activities! You don't realize how much / often you bank your knee (over 6 ft) with that thing in there.
I was taken by surprise by the big gaping hole the mirrors leave.
Found replacement solutions unsatisfactory so put them back on.

The door handles do not bother me at all and I am 6 2.
Taking out the carpeting was a space gainer for me, as was fitting grp buckets.
Carpet and foams are lightweight btw. Not at all the usual sound deading mass, so not much to be won there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
So after pulling a bunch of non obvious items this weekend, I'm feeling pretty good. The harness is a surprisingly large amount of weight and I think there is more to be trimmed there. I was able to get roughly 2 lbs out last night without much effort. I know I'll see diminishing rates of return but I still have some low hanging fruit to trim. Including, soft top hardware, latches, hood, engine bay cover side duct metal baffles, fender air scoop etc... At this point I am even considering shaving one pound on the rear view mirror.

The best part is no part!

Anyway, 10 more lbs down. Carbon plate has been ordered to cover the evap access panel. I think the added crash safety will be worth the 1 gram of weight.
Drinkware Automotive lighting Bumper Gas Serveware
Tool Gas Electrical wiring Auto part Wire
 

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No need for an EVAP cover as there is no EVAP system like that over here...
Furthermore deleted the small canister near the dip stick we do have.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Found some more good stuff. The OEM alarm system is under the dash and almost a pound of weight behind the stereo. My keyless does not work so out it comes.

On another note my container with carbon parts has arrived from China! So, next up is OEM hinges plus hood and trunk release cables. I think there's probably 2 plus pounds just in the release mechanism and cables. My idea for the hinges is to replace them with push button quick release stand offs threaded into the OEM hinge mount locations. Then install two locking carbon fiber latches (one hood and one trunk).

I am half tempted to replace the OEM rear view mirror with a carbon unit. The charts you nice folks provided earlier show it is 1 lb. I suspect the mass has a damping effect on mirror vibrations so without it being convex the $300 part could be a waste of money due to blur causing vibrations. I wonder if anyone else has replaced their Spyder mirror.

Regarding my personal oppsies, I had installed a small intercooler heat exchanger and a large tank. I just ordered a small swirl pot poly tank and will be moving the intercooler reservoir back closer to the center of mass of the chassis. I'm also looking for a small aftermarket washer tank to do the same with (not a plastic bag).

Yall may think I am crazy but this stuff is starting to add up and I can feel it driving the car. Particularly in the steering. The car feels more toss-able now and rears (pitches) up more under boost in 2nd gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
the little things add up. what is your goal weight?
I would like to get down to 2000 lbs with AN interior. The challenge is the addition of a lot of weight with things like the intercooler, meth system and additional control modules. That all adds up too.

Numbers are hard to find but I HOPE the carbon hardtop comes in at around 20 LBS with OEM glass. That could net me ~47-20 = 27ish lbs at the top of the chassis after I pull the soft top bits. I'm going to keep the brace/latch bar for camera duties and put carpet back in the soft top recess. So, my guess is I MAY net 20 lbs savings there. I have no delusions about the hood and trunk. Those are both quite light and going to carbon may save me like 10ish lbs. I'm a little fearful that I will still be at about 2100 before I touch the seats. The spyder seats are already 32-34 lbs each so that's pretty damn light for an OEM seat. Looking around the lightest carbon reclining seats I can find are around 20 lbs and BIG dollars. I'll go there eventually but the sawsall will probably be employed before that.
 

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which carbon top are you using? the VIS carbon top is about 21lbs with the 2mm lexan window.. the fiberglass version is about 18lbs with all hardware and window.

have you done a lightweight battery yet? the antigravity atx-20 rs is less than 4lbs, that's a 26lb saving over the lead acid battery
 

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Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Yup, Antigravity YTZ10-12 comes in around 2 lbs with 380 CCA. I still have more work to do since I temporarily zip tied it to the existing battery bracket. I have been running the AG for a month now. Cleared out the garage so that it does not get too cold. But the OEM battery brackets need to come out. Ill be doing that when I upgrade the motor mounts next weekend. I guess I need to figure out what is legal for Autocross in terms of battery hold down. I am considering removing the OEM trim around the back where the hartop sits and using D channel compressed foam weatherstripping to save a few ounces there since I'm going to hard mount the top and the looks underneath wont matter.

Yes, the hard top is a VIS. I'll be using aluminum mounting brackets rather than the clasps to keep weight down. Sacrificing the 3 lbs to have glass with the defroster (im in Colorado).
 

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nice! you can make up the 3 pounds if you get the fiberglass version unless of course you already ordered. the aluminum side mounts it comes with work well and weigh almost nothing
 

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Discussion Starter · #77 · (Edited)
I ordered the carbon version (is the fiberglass one lighter!?). Ordered the Snelbaard brackets. Should be pretty light.

On another note, I have been looking at the wiper arm cam structure. I always liked the way my Elise used a single wiper. I think I can manage fabbing up a new cam to convert to single arm. The combination of the wiper arm and bade is actually kind of heavy. Im not a fan of the single wiper left in the middle of the windscreen "Ricer" style but one that sits where it is actually supposed to and swings 180° is attractive to me. I had zero issues with it on my LSS Elise and the windshields are similar size. The Elise assembly is pretty heavy but the Toyota dual bar system could possibly be modified to do the same. That's an odd weight reduction item since I bet zero people have done it right.
 

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I ordered the carbon version (is the fiberglass one lighter!?). Ordered the Snelbaard brackets. Should be pretty light.

On another note, I have been looking at the wiper arm cam structure. I always liked the way my Elise used a single wiper. I think I can manage fabbing up a new cam to convert to single arm. The combination of the wiper arm and bade is actually kind of heavy. Im not a fan of the single wiper left in the middle of the windscreen "Ricer" style but one that sits where it is actually supposed to and swings 180° is attractive to me. I had zero issues with it on my LSS Elise and the windshields are similar size. The Elise assembly is pretty heavy but the Toyota dual bar system could possibly be modified to do the same. That's an odd weight reduction item since I bet zero people have done it right.
 

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I ordered the carbon version (is the fiberglass one lighter!?).
yes the fiberglass version is 18lbs. with the side brackets and lexan window, the carbon is 21lbs with brackets and widow. the carbon version is just the fiberglass version with 1 sheet of carbon with resin over it. most carbon fiber hoods are the same way
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Ehhh, that looks mostly done wrong. The wiper needs to sit at a regular spot and sweep fully. Hence the heavy hinge mechanism on the Elise. If done right it wont be noticeable.

It's a thought. Ill play around with as well. Weight anywhere we can save it as long as not horrid looking.
 
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