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Yeah, I know, it wasn't much. It won't make a big difference but thats eight more pounds I don't have to wonder about later. Since everything else was out of the car this was the best time to remove the coating.
 

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Yeah, I know, it wasn't much. It won't make a big difference but thats eight more pounds I don't have to wonder about later. Since everything else was out of the car this was the best time to remove the coating.
Is this the coating that sticks to it like an adhesive, located in the interior of the car? That's a royal pain in the ass to get off.
 

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That's it. It's underneath the car, in the wheel wells, on the firewall, etc. The stuff on the underside of the car comes off easier that the stuff on the firewall. The material on the firewall must have some heat resistant properties that makes it stick better.
 

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I've tried dry ice to get normally sticky interior insulation stuff off easily. dry ice for about 20mins and the thing is hard as rock and just as brittle. Maybe try that while somehow holding the ice where you want it.
 

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I bought an oscillating scraper from Harbor Freight. It worked pretty good but makes your hands felt like they vibrated on their own after awhile. I would work on it for about 15 minutes at a time then take a break and it wasn't too bad. They were about about $40 but since then I've seen coupons that could bring them down to $35. Bosch has a corded unit for about $100 and another that is cordless. On the cordless units I've seen I don't think a charge would have lasted long enough. Fein makes one for about $300. I wonder if the higher priced brands wouldn't vibrate your hands as much...

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=67256

Randy
 

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Very helpful thread for someone contemplating a purchase...

Being in CA, with CARB limitations, focusing on weight is even a bit more important for us. Just with the items I was planning to remove (done so on past and current cars), that would be over 115 lbs:

Soft top @ 47 lbs
Spare tire @ 25 lbs
AC @ 22 lbs
Battery swap @ 16 lbs (28-12)
Wipers @ 5 lbs

This would be strictly a good weather car, so top and wipers, not important...

What to aftermkt rotors weigh? I would imagine some good savings there also. And with some nice race seats, that would save at least 14 pounds each.

I see 150 "easy" pounds...

Given the indicated weight, is anyone below 2k pounds? It would seem quite doable...
 

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what are you going to do about animals and bugs if you dont have a top when its parked? lol. seems like your getting a bit carried away.
 

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Well, as I shared earlier, I've had such cars before (top gone, sold): FJ40, 914, Manx Dune buggy (never had a top), and probably a few more that I don't remember... Not an issue for me as it's garaged at home, and the other destination is typically just the office, 45 minutes away. No wildlife there. I suppose some bugs and maybe a leaf or two, but nothing that won't blow-out on the drive home.

From May through Oct (dry months in CA), I'd drive such a car to work - RWD, no top. The wetter months, FWD or AWD, with a top. That car is now my MINI Cooper S. My "commutes" in and out of the canyon are a hoot... from seeing an old Miata to a couple exotics, and many others in between, it's a fun drive.

Sold my 1,000 pound dune buggy a couple years ago (yes I drove that to work too), and I've since been chomping at the bit to get another RWD open air ride. The S2K has been the fall-back, but the MR2 is a special car, so I'm doing my homework.

We have a practical, family car too, that is basically my wife's...
 

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Make sure your windshield washer reservoir is empty too...it looks like it holds about a gallon (roughly 8 lb!).

Also, remember that normal manufacturer convention is to quote curb weight with all fluids in place, including a full tank of fuel (roughly 76 lb.). A few manufacturers will quote dry weights...Ferrari from time to time.

--Doug
 

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Good info and reminder Doug, thanks! I've removed the wiper tanks on other cars too, so that would be on the list, especially for this good weather ride! That said, I have left a tank in before and used it for an IC sprayer. Doesn't seem like this will be a viable option here in CA, on an MR2.

Also, I've been a Rain-X guy for a long time!
 

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I can see removing the top on a track car, but from the sounds of your intended use, I would leave the car as is. I doubt you will notice the 47 pound weight reduction, and if you do, I think a significant bit of it will be in your head. I've got quite a bit of weight reduction on my car, but the top is so simple and useful on this car. I have a hardtop as well, but I chose to leave the soft top in. I used to use my Spyder solely as a track car, and I wish I would have left the stereo and air conditioning in the car.

I think you should look at it this way. Make the drive with a passenger, and without. If you notice the weight difference, then sure, strip down the car. But the only time I've ever really felt the difference is taking people for ride-alongs on an autocross, pushing the car way past where i would comfortably drive on the street, which is what it sounds like you intend on using the car for.

Or buy my car. It's already stripped down with a 2ZZ. To reach your goals you just need to remove the soft top.
 

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... Or buy my car. It's already stripped down with a 2ZZ. To reach your goals you just need to remove the soft top.

pablo, thanks for chiming-in.

Actually, I didn't share what my goal or objective is... so, one here would not know what is needed to get there. I find that many modify their cars just because, with no desired end-point in mind. This invariably leads to issues and frustrations later...

I really dig that this car is a mid-engine RWD, about 2,100 lbs, and has a 50/50 front/rear distribution. I want more power, but not an unreal, gaudy number. What matters, at least to me and many who are weight conscious is the weight to hp ratio.

In my FWD MINI, I really didn't want much better than 10:1 (pounds:bhp). With a 225 whp pull on a Mustang, that's about 255 crank hp. And by getting the car down to 2,410 pounds - a little less than 9.5, mission accomplished. A stock M3 E46 is about 10:1, as a reference point. In the straights leading into the canyon, I have enough giddy-up to not get lost before the twisties begin...

In a RWD, I'd want better than 10:1, something closer to 9. I know MR2's are there, and better of course, but in CA.... how to get there? There being something like:

2,000 lbs at 220 bhp (about 200 RWHP?)

47 pounds is huge, especially on an already light car.... And if one does go with a 2ZZ, adding about 30 pounds, losing 47 that sits in the same area, when folded down, seems most desirable.

I live about an hour away from Laguna Seca and look forward to the day that I can start tracking. For now, with my limited time, spirited canyon driving will have to suffice.
 

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pablo, thanks for chiming-in.

Actually, I didn't share what my goal or objective is... so, one here would not know what is needed to get there. I find that many modify their cars just because, with no desired end-point in mind. This invariably leads to issues and frustrations later...

I really dig that this car is a mid-engine RWD, about 2,100 lbs, and has a 50/50 front/rear distribution. I want more power, but not an unreal, gaudy number. What matters, at least to me and many who are weight conscious is the weight to hp ratio.

In my FWD MINI, I really didn't want much better than 10:1 (pounds:bhp). With a 225 whp pull on a Mustang, that's about 255 crank hp. And by getting the car down to 2,410 pounds - a little less than 9.5, mission accomplished. A stock M3 E46 is about 10:1, as a reference point. In the straights leading into the canyon, I have enough giddy-up to not get lost before the twisties begin...

In a RWD, I'd want better than 10:1, something closer to 9. I know MR2's are there, and better of course, but in CA.... how to get there? There being something like:

2,000 lbs at 220 bhp (about 200 RWHP?)

47 pounds is huge, especially on an already light car.... And if one does go with a 2ZZ, adding about 30 pounds, losing 47 that sits in the same area, when folded down, seems most desirable.

I live about an hour away from Laguna Seca and look forward to the day that I can start tracking. For now, with my limited time, spirited canyon driving will have to suffice.
Sorry, I inferred from your references to parking the car at work and canyon runs to meaning you were wanting to keep the car as more of a street car, and less of a track car. My car was built as a track car which turned it into a poor road car. Not horrible, but more of a compromise than I want in a daily driver. I just don't think I use the car as much as I would if I still had air conditioning, and the GF doesn't like the carbon fiber fixed buckets.

It might help if you clearly stated your intentions for the car. You mention Laguna Seca, but a lot of racing classes will limit the amount of modification, and you move past a certain point and the Spyder is no longer competitive. You'll also hear a lot about chassis bracing when you start modifying the Spyder, which is going to move you in the opposite direction you want to go as far as weight is concerned. But if you are racing, you will be limited quite a bit there as well.

The other thing to consider is if you are intent on building a track car, why keep it road legal? If you stop worrying about that, you really open up a lot of options. And I've never lived in CA long enough to have to register a car there, but I have a feeling once you remove wipers it will fail inspection just as much as it would for a turbocharger. Or are safety inspections done independent of smog inspections? In NC they were one and the same.
 

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Pablo, thank you for your thoughts and ideas. Please, no need to apologize.

I didn't mention my intentions for this car as I didn't find it appropriate in this weight reduction thread, and just wanted to focus on the topic. I only mentioned parking my car at the office because someone earlier was somewhat concerned about animals, bugs, etc... so I felt a need to respond, explaining a bit more.

I know very much what I'd want from this car (any light weight, RWD, open air vehicle) to satisfy my needs and was happy to find this thread... I have not intent to build a race car.

MY MINI, in the minds of many, is probably more of a track car than a street one. From looking at the interior, it's still a finished, street-looking ride though, not gutted or anything like that. A good balance for what I want. Yes, my wife has not driven in it with me for about 2 years now, so I understand. That said, it only sees the roads during the week, when I commute, not on the weekends when we are out, running errands, etc.

I'm fully aware of mods, and racing requirements for various classes, not by experience as I've never raced, but through others who I know. That said, I didn't state that I wanted to race in any class. One of my MINI friends is a NASA driving instructor and I'd like to finally get some formal driving education, and do some track days so I can push the car and my limits more, in the right environment. One can't or shouldn't go out 10/10th's on public roads of course...

I really appreciate the thoughts and concerns though.

Ok, to get back on-topic...

As I originally asked, is anyone here at or around 2,000 pounds? I'm sure there must be...

Also, and this steers us a bit off-topic again... It seems that I might be able to get into an MR2 for around $5k. A 2zz engine swap would seem to be my only viable output option, and if I do a lot myself, maybe an extra $2k. I'd want to work with the CA referee to have this done right, or legally. This MR2 in an Oct 2000 build, and I'm guessing that makes it a 2001, but not sure, so the engine should be a 2001 or newer. Are there any costs involved to the state to make this swap legitimate? Trying to factor-in all (time & money) that will be needed to get an MR2 to where I'd want it to be...

Thank you.
 

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Weight reduction









In regards to around 200lbs, only guy I know of who did that was in a prepped Auto-x car. Car's name is Pikachu, completely gutted, stripped of everything but the dash. No soft top, no door innards, full cage/roll bar, etc. he even removed the a-pillar and windshield. iirc they got it a bit below 1900lbs and had to add weight to make it class legal.
When mine still had carpet, with 195lb driver, a half tank of gas, stock seats, and the harddog rollbar it weighted in at 2365lbs

I should also add that if you have to deal with state inspections, wipers are important, because they usually check for that.
 

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And one more, I like this shot because it's new. And because you have to look carefully to notice the passenger seat isn't in there, the floor is visibile, and the harddog is kind of peeking out.

 

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I spy a Kartboy sticker!

That roll bar is heavy but I know there is now way around that. Plus it should add to the rigidity. I have one. I just need to install it. I've been trying to find some ways to compensate to that additional weight.
 
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