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Ok, to get back on-topic...

As I originally asked, is anyone here at or around 2,000 pounds? I'm sure there must be...

Also, and this steers us a bit off-topic again... It seems that I might be able to get into an MR2 for around $5k. A 2zz engine swap would seem to be my only viable output option, and if I do a lot myself, maybe an extra $2k. I'd want to work with the CA referee to have this done right, or legally. This MR2 in an Oct 2000 build, and I'm guessing that makes it a 2001, but not sure, so the engine should be a 2001 or newer. Are there any costs involved to the state to make this swap legitimate? Trying to factor-in all (time & money) that will be needed to get an MR2 to where I'd want it to be...

Thank you.
I'm at 2180 with all fluids topped off, including gas. That's with no A/C, no stereo, and carbon fiber fixed bucket seats with aluminum brackets. But I also have the TRD upper and lower chassis bracing and a breastplate, and a 2ZZ, which is helping to offset any weight loss i had from removing things. I don't know if my coilovers are any different from the stock strut setup as far as weight is concerned. And there are a few things that replaced stock components I removed, like the Schroth harnesses my stock belts were replaced with. So that might have moved the weight in either direction but not by much.

You should drive a car with chassis bracing, it won't make the car any faster but definitely improves feedback. There are a few threads on this if you search, it's diminishing returns, but some of the chassis bracing is universally accepted as an improvement. If you can try a car with bracing you can make the decision as to whether the difference in feel is worth the offset in weight. I don't think you can get close to 2000 lbs in anything resembling a street car.

As far as a smog legal 2ZZ swap is concerned, it definitely can be done, but $2k may be a bit light on the budget. You should look at keeping the 6 speed with the 2ZZ, if you can afford it and don't have plans for forced induction.
 

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Speaking of weight savings.. I'm full weight and ive just installed a custom sound system with box and complete Dynamax all over the car.. must be at least 60 pounds added. I know I can remove the spare wheel with the tools and save about 40+ lb there.. Anything else I can do thats really not needed even for a daily driver?

I was thinking of replacing the seats with sports ones (not fixed though).. or are out seats already light compared to other stock cars with manual adj seats?
 

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I added a couple items to the list on the second page.

Also, removed 16 lbs. of wiring from the car over the winter.
 

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Im converting my spyder into a naked buggy type car and would like to remove the things on the above heading

I figure I can get it down to 1400lbs with just a simple cage like a Manx buggy of yesteryear
Looking for a simple fun lightweight toy that is different some simple small LEDs for headlights
and indicators, brakelights etc.Also manual conversion to save weight & issues of a heavier SMT.

any help very appreciated even if I have to change ECU for another toyota as it wont be having doors either
just raised sections for stiffening, tub like setup etc.
 

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Im converting my spyder into a naked buggy type car and would like to remove the things on the above heading

I figure I can get it down to 1400lbs with just a simple cage like a Manx buggy of yesteryear
Looking for a simple fun lightweight toy that is different some simple small LEDs for headlights
and indicators, brakelights etc.Also manual conversion to save weight & issues of a heavier SMT.

any help very appreciated even if I have to change ECU for another toyota as it wont be having doors either
just raised sections for stiffening, tub like setup etc.

That's cool but where can you drive it without any doors. I would think the street and most tracks would be limit you.
Wouldnt it be better to start with a tubular chassis and then add the motor.
 

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Somehow, Sivart's mods just popped into my mind.
I was thinking the same thing.

I would think it would be easier because of certain laws and restrictions to build a kit car and then register it as one.
I couldn't get away with doing something like this to my Spyder and I would be pulled over and given multiple citations but if I built a Factory Five Cobra I can go through a process of getting two safety inspections and some red tape to get it registered.
 

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just need to make it more of a tub by raising the sides where the doors would be so cops wouldnt see my underwear in my quest to travel light :love-struck: it will have lotus 7 like guards and front cover of come kind where the tank will be relocated.

She gonna be ugly but allowed here in Japan since they also allow go carts of all sorts etc.

I have some ideas that might spruce it up but will see as I go along and how I feel on that particular day
hopefully its not too sadistic a journey as it is a beautiful car but I have hope it will turn out like the next
mad max gotta have desert contraption and for sure on a budget.
 

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Svelte southern belle.

Buenas tardes caballeros,

New to spyderchat.
Recent to the SW30.
Died in the wool driver/racer.

Reading this thread I have nothing to teach you on the weight issue, just sharing my position on that track.

My MR2 is stríctly road and as road legal as possible because of the obligatory yearly technical inspection.
Since much of my mountain road fun is with charming company in the passenger seat, creature comfort is another priority.
So these are the limits.

I would love to get the weight down to 2200 lbs as that equals the nice round 1000 kilos. Not sure whether that is realistic as I have no starting number for the weight. I mean, there are lóts of numbers floating about with a variety of definitions of what is included in that weight.
I dó know what I have taken out/swappen and have sofar added 138 lbs. of (measured on scales) lightness and that is counting the addition of a front strut brace.
Lighter wheels are still on the roll and would lóve to swap the passenger seat for a garden chair cushion but have met with objections there.

For the rest I am about to the limits of lightness adding. Alloy brake calipers would be WOW but both a bit over budget new and also finge legal at best here.
Ok, a lighter gear knob but that is hardly measurable ánd will be more than offset by the engine torque damper I want to fit.
The floor mats stay in till I have found some sort of cloth that sticks to the carpet to put under the pedals.

In about a month or so will put the car on the weighbridge accross the road.
 

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2002 with a 6speed, LSD and 2ZZ motor. 2180, corner balanced.

Only actual lightweight mod was a Odyssey PC680 battery and lightweight mount, setup lower on the rear subframe. Shaved about 10# also using a Magnaflow midpipe. Still have the stock muffler too, which is an easy 10-15# more with an aftermarket exhaust. Interior is stock, body/chassis is stock though I did add a Cusco front lower brace, phattires SS BP brace, and ditched the front spare, but kept the tools... 3/4 fuel tank also.

I’ll be happy getting it down to 2150 as I feel I won’t have to sacrifice much to get there. Hardtop has also replaced the soft top so that should be a negligible change as most people say they are both about 50#

Anyways
 

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K20 swapped, 1970 lb with cat, exhaust manifold, stock MRS muffler, 5/8 tank, SCCA/NASA legal full cage with NASCAR door bars, stock steel hood and engine cover. Should be closer to 1850 lb when done.
 
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